• @sasmon is using them on at least one road bike.

    Apparently, 'gorilla' tape is as good dedicated/wheel type rim tape. The chaps at Soho bikes who have lots of mountain/cross bikes are using it.

    As for the best tyres, I will look to others who have more experience

  • Apparently, 'gorilla' tape is as good dedicated/wheel type rim tape. The chaps at Soho bikes who have lots of mountain/cross bikes are using it.

    Been using it for years. Works as normal rim tape, too. Buy a massive roll of it and trim to size with a stanly knife - it will do about five sets of wheels.

  • The time has come; the summer bike is going to take leave of the turbo and be readied for the outside world. This is the year for tubeless... so I was thinking the Vittoria Corsas, but apparently they wear out just by looking at them. Great for racing, terrible for using on normal rides.
    I've been using GP4000s for the past 4 or 5 years - don't mind the way they wear, but am looking forward to leaving the random and frequent sidewall disasters behind.

    Schwalbe Pro Ones then? All I can currently find are 28s. On a Pacenti SL23 - anyone know what the effective width will be? Pretty sure my bike's got clearance for 28s... but I worry if I pick up a bit of grit on a hot tar road it'll get stuck between frame/fork and the tyre, locking things up or worse. Mind you that's happened on a 25 before; maybe less clearance would mean less chance of grit getting in there.

    I'll stop typing. Any good advice out there?

  • On a Pacenti SL23 - anyone know what the effective width will be?

    30mm or so I reckon. But it depends....as you know.

  • I've just given up waiting for the Corsa Speed's to come in stock and ordered some Pro One's. Bike24 was the cheapest shop by far and they had 28's in stock.

  • Have just ordered a pair of s-ones for the commuto x bike. 30mm and moar puncture protection than the pro-ones. My front Schwalbe One has done about 6000 miles and is cut up to hell it now has a couple of holes that keep reopening - worst it has lost 50% pressure before resealing, though that has been when I have stopped at lights and the hole has been at the top of the wheel. If the hole is at the bottom (and has a puddle of sealant next to it) the air does not rush out.

    Am hoping the s-one arrive before the tyre completely dies, I have a feeling it has so much detritus embedded in the rubber it would puncture a tube if I tried to put one in.

  • 6000 miles of commuting on London's famous London roads? That's pretty good going for something close to a race tyre. Sweet.

  • Fuck

    The worn tyre is spurting leaks all over! Have only lost about 10% of pressure so far today. It's just got to hold out until I get home and fingers crossed my new tyres will arrive tomorrow or Friday.

  • Your tyre is a metaphor for your old chap


  • Put an inner tube in it

  • Is there a forum-recommended conversion kit/rim tape? I'm not sure about using gorilla tape - it's hard enough getting tyres on the Pacenti rims as it is.

  • I've used stans tape and valves with success.

  • I have used stand tape, pacenti tape and Reynolds l have worked.

    Road tubeless does need to be double wrapped, the pressure is so high it can fold a single layer.

  • Thanks, good info. Now I just need to find a Stans kit for road rims... can only seem to find it for 29ers

  • don't get the 12mm tape, I'm using the 21mm one.

  • was battling to get the new Schwalbe S-one to fit to my front wheel.

    took out the valve core, applied washing up liquid to the bead and rim, foamed up the washing up liquid etc etc

    i could install a tube and get the bead to pop and lock but it would undo the moment pressure was released

    eventually i just added another round of rim tape and the tyre went up immediately

    it appears that there was too much of a gap between the bead and the rim tape, so when the air was going in it just leaked out


  • Attempting ze* German method today.



  • Ok, so 23mm Schwalbe Pro One's on Ritchey WCS Apex ii 60mm.

    The wheels aren't 'tubeless compatible' but I've ran tubeless tyres on normal rims before without issue.

    They're 17mm internal so I'm using Stans 21mm tape with Stans valves and Stans tubeless valve extenders. I tried to use normal valve extenders at first but quickly realised you definitely need the collar to stop the it getting pushed up inside the rim and breaking the seal.

    I had the tyres set up with a normal inner tube for a couple of days while I waited for the valve extenders to arrive in the post, which seems to have had the bonus side effect of stretching them out a bit, making them easier to get on and seal.

    The front one went on and inflated first time easily, the rear one was a little harder. It seemed like because the internal rim is so wide, and the tyres only 23mm they sat quite close to the middle of the rim without any air in. Meaning when I was trying to inflate them the air was just escaping. Some furious pumping (euph) later and the bead grabbed enough to seal.

    They each slowly leaked air, maybe 5 psi a minute, so I kept topping them up while watching a film. Over night they had lost another 2o ish psi each, I don't think they're quite sealed properly yet so commuted on them today to get the latex inside moving around.

    Overall, fairly easy, not perfect but good enough. Not as easy as when I converted some Shimano RS11's, probably because of the carbon rim/lip to grab the bead.

  • Hey @dancing james

    Didn't know this existed.

    So One Pro, they're good? Like real good?

    Really tempted into the move, if only for the rolling resistance. I rarely get punctures because I don't ride in the gutter.

  • i cant comment on the Pro One

    the standard One was really good, comfy to ride on, grip well and despite the fact they get quite cut up the sealant does its job

    it's quite amazing how much muck bonded with sealant is attached to the inside of my mudguards, they must have picked up quite a few punctures in the last 3-4 months

    i now realise that they tend to reseal more quickly when you are riding faster as the sealant is spread around the inside of the tyre better.

  • I think i'll have to get some and test them out. See what I think and make judgement.

    They one pro are meant to be a LOT better than one. Lighter, lower RR, more supple.

  • Just in case it's not common knowledge, stan's yellow tubeless tape is supposed to be Tesa 4289 you can find on ebay for roughly quarter of the price of stan's.

    I've got Kinlin XR22T's coming in which should be tubeless compatible, will probably try the Pro Ones at some point.

  • There's some useful info about tubeless tape alternatives tl:dr = 3M 764 looks good on paper, easy to remove, won't saturate like Gorilla tape and should work as long as you're not using ammonia based sealant

  • Gone tubeless on my 1x1 - Conti Mountain King 2.4 on Halo Vapour X 35mm rims. Rear went up fine, front went up but was losing nearly all pressure over a couple of days, no sign of sealant leaking anywhere though.

    Cleaned, refitted and an double dose of stans, holding overnight and ridden into work today to give it a good shake round. Waiting to see what it's like at 5...

  • Did you cover the wheel with a soapy solution ? Especially where the rim and the tyre meet. if you notice bubbles forming then shake the wheel around so the sealant gets to the unsealed spots.

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Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Posted by Avatar for dancing james @dancing james