Frigging Wiggle Lifeline bar tape. Comfy enough, but it’s the second time this stuff has slipped. So re-wrapping AGAIN for the third time. This time I’ve put a run of double-sided tape along the bars where it slips. I’ll regret this later when I come to take it off, but I don’t have any spare tape in stock.
should be wrapped the other way around, innit? starting from the bar end (that way the overlaps won't open up and separate).
also, i'd put a mighty car mods 'chopped' sticker by the model designation on the downtube :)
It's not just starting at the bar end, it's also the direction of wind: so that for the tape on the tops, a grip of the bars from above and an "opening the throttle on a motorbike action" tightens the wind, not loosens it.
Therefore, as you look at the bar ends from the saddle, it's anti-clockwise for the right bar end and clockwise for the left.
I’ve always wrapped my bars this way round though and it never shifts unless you wrap it in the other direction. I could tell this stuff wasn’t going to stay put when I first put it on because it was already moving around when I pulled it tight. The double-sided ought to hold it for now.
I also had to re thread the top of the fork to fit the new Headset.
But my BB is BSA. But had to re thread that too because it was broken of all rust.
And two weeks after installed the seat post I can not get it of. Must have stucked of all rust in the frame, don't even need a seat clamp haha.
Love these Soviet bikes
Hmm, Error when I add image.
How did you re-thread the fork, out of interest? I did consider running a 1” die down the threads, starting with it loose and working it tighter each time until a 1” headset wound onto it. The threads are so close I think it would have been fine.
We happened to have a 26x1 tap at work, but not a die holder big enough to hold a 1” die. I tried a few LBSs and none of them had a fork threading die that I could have offered up to see if it was going to work. I’d have had to have bought both a die and holder just to find out.
I did go to a mechanical workshop for the fork and bicycle workshop for the BB :)
Here is some pics
Is this what you're looking for?
The die is stamped 26.
Not what I am looking for right now, have all my forks done. But can you thread 1" with that one?
I don't think so. I was looking for an Imperial 1" x 24 tpi split die. The thread on the fork is metric 26mm x 1mm pitch which is pretty close. Difficult to say what your die is from just the 26. But I don't need to alter the fork now because I made the modifications to the Stronglight headset cup.
It's for standard ancient British forks, so yes.
Is it hard to use? How much and where can I buy? If I come to those thoughts sometime
Decided to try and use up some consumables over the winter. First up are the 28mm tyres I have had in the loft for a while. Not a good start, they don't clear the brake caliper so that rules that one out. I have some 25mm tyres as well but I don't think they will clear either. Arse.
Which is quite annoying, because I think it looks cool with the fat tyres. There’s plenty of space under the fork, but it’s got such a skinny crown the brake caliper is sitting on the tyre and the wheel axle isn’t even fully in the dropout. It’s got me wondering though, I’ve got a Shimano 1055 single pivot caliper in the shed which is much skinnier than this Campagnolo dual pivot and it might clear. I wonder if the drop is shallow enough. Seem to remember it might not have been.
This is still soldiering on. It’s back wearing 20c tanwalls. A couple of months ago I was hoping to treat myself to a roll of S-Wrap Roubaix bar tape in black but it’s been discontinued. @jontea was like go pink or go home, so that’s what I ended up with. Also went to stick the Hamax mount on this morning but it’s not even close to fitting the skinny tubes on this bike!
Does it not even clear 23c tyres? Which brand is that tape?
Full shot with the pink bar tape please. Still one of my absolute favourites from the forum.
It just about clears the calliper at the front but I have to put another link in the chain to clear at the back and then the wheel is sat near the back of the dropout. Bar tape is Specialized S-wrap Roubaix. Super-plush, but like I said it’s been discontinued :/
@vpCogworks I’ll get a nice rainy shot on Monday when I’ve got it out!
Have you considered fitting the front brake behind the fork crown?
A more elegant solution might simply be to use a Weinmann 500 caliper which, I think, would also give more clearance than the rather complex looking brake you are using.
I did have the same problem with my 'Harris of Earlsfield' and I overcame it with a similar (but shorter than the 500) Japanese caliper. I can't remember the make or model, but it's in a parts bin
somewhere in my shed - I'm sure I could find it if it would be helpful.
I forgot to add that pic. Have a bit of Thames at Staines looking towards the Swan Hotel.
@clubman I haven’t tried putting the brake behind the crown but everything clears at the moment so as long as I can still get 20-23mm tyres I’ll be fine! I have a Weinmann 500 in my drawer but I think the drop is too long. I kind of lucked-out with the Campag calliper on there because it’s ultra-short drop and the brake shoe is right at the top of the slot but the shoe position is spot-on.
Still a nice bike! Cool pic as well.
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