• Have done all of the above apart from torqued... so could be the reason.

    It's my only carbon steerer so very possible user error if I'm needing to treat it differently to aluminium.

    Have just faffed and retightened, adding extra spacer for good measure over steerer. Will see how it goes, when I'm eventually commuting again. Reminded me that the expanding nut assembly looks wrong every time I see it...but I don't know any better. Certainly looks like top surface should be flush with top of steerer right?


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  • Yup! That’s nearly an inch higher / out of the steerer!

    Sounds like that’s been slipping up and causing the looseness

  • Just £92 more than buying the frameset on its own!

  • Score some lines around it to make something to grip on and add assembly paste .

  • Replace the compression bung

  • Take it off, clean it thoroughly, put carbon paste on it, push it right down, and tighten it properly with a 6mm allen keys.

  • Buy or borrow a torque wrench. Don’t even think about adjusting a carbon steerer without one.

    Don’t overtighten it.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aBjJ35B-Og­0

  • Used Phil's on my Singular Swift for one year of commuting, with practically no maintenance. It was heavy but basically set and forget and good quality.
    I personally prefer compared to my experience with sliding dropouts, which I had to re-tighten quite often

  • Thanks all, it's obvious when people tell you on the internet!

    Off to get a torque wrench.

  • Had a large v4/56cm ETT with a 100m that got nicked..fuckers. Wanna another one but their no where to be found in the states..

  • Rebuild after having the chainstays crimped. Now happy to take a 700x38mm.

    Also fitted new saddle, Chainset bb and front mech!


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  • Only just saw your post sorry.. Does it have a gloss finish steerer? One batch of forks had a hard gloss finish that can lower wedge and stem grip. A bit of wet + dry is a fix if you know what you're doing, also use grip paste on the stem and wedge surfaces. Could worth checking the stem type too, some lightweight aftermarket stems could have less contact area, more cut out internally.

    It doesn't look like the shiny fork there though, if that's the neon yellow 2015 Arkose 2. As said above check the wedge/bung fitting with a torque wrench. Carbon grip paste is good stuff, still won't hurt to use some.

  • What was the biggest tyre you could get in before? I’d like to get a 700x38 in but can only get a 35 in now

  • Designed for 33/35, g ones fine but anything knobbly would be too tight. Now I can go 35mm full knobber or 38mm gravelly.

    Chuffed.

  • My pal is looking for a gravel frame but wants one that could take 2.25 mtb tyres.
    Whats the forum consensus? Does such a thing exist?

    And yes, I've told him just to build a drop bar mtb hardtail.

  • Whats the forum consensus? Does such a thing exist?

    On-One Bootzipper, a full drop bar bike for £600.

  • On-One Bootzipper

    Oooft that looks like exactly what he's after. Thanks!

  • I hope you're getting commision.

  • On-One Bootzipper, a full drop bar bike

    Isn't this preciously a 'drop bar mtb hardtail' though? Albeit without a squishy fork.

  • For £600, not that precious.

  • Yeah pretty much I guess.

    My pal is also ideally looking for a frame with a tapered head tube.

    Any other suggestions from the hive mind?

  • I don't think it's designed for drop bars either is it? How about Kona Sutra Ltd, genesis fugio/ Vagabond, Fargo 650b, Bombtrack hook adv.

  • They sell one with drops, on a bike like that, you just tweak it to suit you. It’s already a bit Frankenstein!

  • Geometry work well enough, the only difference is the 73mm bottom bracket which mean road chainset isn’t feasible.

    Geometry (70 HT, 74.5 ST, 55mm rake) not far off my Boardman ADV (70.5 HT, 74 ST, 50mm rake).

  • Much larger reach though no?

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Gravel / Gravé / Gnarmac / Groad / Not quite CX bikes - aka Just get an Arkose

Posted by Avatar for BareNecessities @BareNecessities

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