(another) touring bike on a budget

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  • I have to plan to cycle from Amsterdam to Rome this summer. But since I don’t really have a bike for this I decided to build a touring bike on a (tight) budget. At first I wanted to go for an old steel Rockhopper, but I already have a frame that I can put racks and stuff on pretty easily so I will use that.
    I started this thread because I don’t know much about touring and some advice would be nice!
    So it started as this:

    Which I converted into to a sscx bike.

    I stripped it all down again and cleaned it up and fitted a nice Tange sealed bearing headset.
    The frame has some rust spots, should I be worried about rust inside the tubes??

    The plan is to build it up with dropbars, a bar end shifter and a 9 speed cassette.
    What I already have:

    Racks: Original Batavus rear rack and Tubus Ergo lowrider
    Wheelset. Alex Adventurer rims with Deore hubs
    34-11 cassette
    FSA Energy compact crankset. I want to use no front derailleur and a 34t chainring. Currently that's at the inner position giving a 41mm chainline. Is it worth it to go from this 108mm bb to a 113mm to get the chainline in de middle of the cassette?
    Thanks for all the input guys!

  • Advice for nice 700x37 tires would be nice as well! I thinking about these ones: http://www.rosebikes.nl/artikel/continen­tal-sportcontact-2-reflex-raceband/aid:7­52165

  • Rust in the tubes.

    Common for steel frames to get surface rust inside, views are split on how to look after them.

    When i have a frame stripped down or it's been subjected to swimming...... after draining and letting it dry out...... i go for a good squirt of WD40 down all the breather holes, far less hassle than boiling up linseed oil and swirling that around inside :-) others will have differing views on how to tackle the issue.

  • Subbed!

    I've got 37c Vittoria Randonneur Pros on my commuter, which are reasonably comfy and tough as old boots, but probably quite heavy.

    If you want nice nice, I think Compass do a couple of 700c tyres.

  • Oh and I'm riding from Amsterdam to Den Haag next weekend - where can I get good coffee!? :)

  • Thanks but that's too expensive:( And I don't know, I'm not really a coffee place kinda guy haha. Hope you enjoy your ride.

  • I decided to use the Shimano XT external bb cranks from my mtb but I have a bit of a problem with the chainline.
    With the chainring fitted in the middle position this gives a chainline of 50mm but the middle of the rear cassette is 43,5mm.... This gives a pretty shitty chainline. And I don't really understand it, normally on MTB's the middle ring should line up with the middle of the cassette right?

  • For touring tyres I personally use these:


    Half the price of Schwalbe Marathon plus, and after a good few thousand km's, just as good!

  • As a fellow dutchman I understand the 1x9 idea. In fact I have this setup on one of my bikes and it does work really well with a narrow/wide ring. I strongly advise against it if you want to do some long distance riding though. Imho trekking isn't about power but relies on cadence. 9 gears will not give you many options to maintain cadence on different hills and facing head winds etc. I think you would do yourself a real favor if you look at a nice compact set with a 11-28 cassette oslt.

  • I'd avoid external BB cranks as you have less ability to manipulate chainline.
    I think road as opposed to mtb external bearings are thinner which might help but not by much. I think I read that road EBBs are 2.5mm thinner. Maybe if you used these and spaced your chainring with washers you could get closer.

  • ST BB will be a lot more durable and less maintenance also.

    Old early-90s Shimano ST MTB triples with the spaced-out granny gear may be something to consider for this project if you want a bit more versatility than you'd get from a 1x setup; you can run them as a triple or a 110 compact double just by choosing different BB spindle lengths. M730 and M900 are two specific models that spring to mind.

  • Here's where I found the info about EBBs being different thickness.
    They're only 1mm each side, sorry I made a mistake.

  • If you're heading out to the coast and then down, The Jackie cafe (it's in a clothes shop I think) on hoofdstraat in noordwijk does a decent flat white. I'll be popping in there myself in a few weeks as I take Mrs ceepeebee on her first weekend tour.

  • I have a question about tyre sizes, I'm a bit confused... I was looking at a Schwalbe tyre and it was ETRTO size 40-622 and French size 700x38C. With the ERTRO code the first number should be the real tyre width in mm right? Than what does 38C mean?

  • Have a look at this I've found it quite helpful.

    Good luck

  • Thanks for all the help guys!
    Currently looking like this (sorry for the crappy picture)

    I think I will put the FSA Energy crankset back with a 34 and 46t chainring. I might go for a compact crankset with squaretaper bb later...
    Now I'm waiting for:
    -Microshift bar end shifters
    -New chain
    -Procraft 26.0 compact dropbars
    -A lot of small stuff.

    And I ordered a large seatbag from bikepack.pl:)

  • I've bought a Velo Orange quill stem, because that was the only rise stem I could find for 26,0 bars. But I have to say I'm a bit dissapointed by the finish...

  • That's a bit skanky. Velo Orange usually pretty hot on QC..n

  • Yeah I would second that^. I've bought quite a lot of bits from them over the years and it's always been top notch. Don't be deterred.

  • I went on a small camping trip last week, it was pretty nice only the saddle hurt like hell. It's a 143mm Romin that I borrowed from my fixed gear and I always really liked.. I think it is not wide enough for this bike. Now I'm considering buying a Brooks B17 Imperial or a wider specialized Romin/Power. I really need the cut out. Any advise?

  • Nice! With the small amount of saddle-bar drop you have I think you could consider a Brooks B17. If you have to ride in the rain*/leave the bike outside sometimes then a Brooks Cambium could be nice.

    Also, is the right B/E shifter upside down or do the microshift levers work the other way round? Its all the way up but the derailleur is in a high gear. With my DA levers this would be the lowest gear.

    * the flag in the background gave it away.

  • I wonder if the cutout of the B17 Imperial is as effective as the Romin..
    I think the Microshift works the other way around, it's in the correct position like this.
    The trip was from Amsterdam to Ameland and back in 5 days, the picture is taken in Swifterband in Flevoland. On my way back I went over the Afsluitdijk, but I had massive headwind the entire day and some rain, didn't enjoy that day too much haha. But now that I'm following the TCR I feel like a gaint pussy...

  • How's the seatpack treating you? Considering trying one of them to get away from panniers.

  • Sorry Chak, forgot to reply. The seatpack is really nice, looks very well made and has lots of nice details. On this trip I fitted my sleeping bag and tent in it but on further trips I will use it for clothes and put my sleeping bag on my handlebars.
    At first I wanted to buy a rack + ortlieb panniers, but this saves about 2kg's and I don't need that much stuff with me anyways.
    Would recommend!

  • I am/was really happy this bike, it rides better than I expected. But the the day before yesterday the dropout broke of from the seatstay.. I fixed it with some ducttape and tiewraps en rode to the nearest campsite and got it welt the day after
    It's a really shitty weld so I hope it will last. I'm currently 100km south of Paris and heading for the col du tourmalet

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(another) touring bike on a budget

Posted by Avatar for kjlem @kjlem