1990 Trevor Jarvis

Picked up this 531c frame recently as I've wanted a British bike to add to the stable. It's a 1990 frame by Trevor Jarvis of Flying Gate fame, quite rare to see an orthodox frame by him. Spoke to Trevor via email, very friendly and helpful guy. He confirmed that he built it and is going to get back to me with further details of the original order,even asked if I would bring it to his annual event!

I had originally intended to use it as a rat / beater as there's considerable surface rust all over , but having seen it close up its beautifully made and I'm considering doing a full restoration. Some nice touches are the fastback seat stays, cutout lugs with filed down spearpoints, Silva v-shape brake bridge and rear dropouts that look like they may have had the cutout filled in (anyone seen ones like these before?).

Think I'll ride the frame for a while before deciding whether to restore the paintwork . Considering trying an oxalic acid or citric acid bath to get rid of the surface rust. Took the frame to Argos Cycles to get it checked over as I was worried about the rust and some pitting - they dismissed it as very minor and showed me some of the rust buckets they have restored! They suggested just touching up with Hammerite rust paint until I decide to have it painted. Not sure if I want to do this, may sand away the rust and touch up with clear nail varnish so I can keep an eye on it. Theres a lot to touch up though.

Interested to see what Trevor says about the frame - not sure if the Peter Hargroves sticker relates to the original owner, or if its anything to do with Peter Hargroves of Hargroves Cycles .

Thinking about what would look good on a build, perhaps Dura Ace 7400?

Nice frame! If you hit the search I really like what RVL did with rust spots on his Bob Jackson rat. I never managed puting lacquer over raw steel successfully, but still want to give Zapon a try once (should work).

7400 would look awesome, but apparently 7410 should be more technically sound.

600 6400 ultegra could also be nice with that grey anodising bits.. Good luck with your build!

Cheers for that , really enjoyed reading that Bob Jackson thread ! Looks awesome, making me think I should keep it original , at least for winter as this'll be an everyday commuter

+1 on the 600 suggestion, have always liked that groupset and its much more affordable.

@Rik_Van_Looy, would you mind clarifying how you tackled the rust on your Bob Rat, was it all sanded off, even the fork? cheers

Ps what's Zapon? Never heard of it ...

http://www.motipdupli.de/en/products/dupli-color/decoration/special/ipg-1265.html

Can't find the thread, but it was an old frame that got a new headtube and was left in raw finished with Zapon, which accordingly to the owner worked fine. I guess prime it good by sanding, cleaning the surface properly and then putting a couple of layers with a day or two to dry in between would be worth the try. I think sealing it off with a first layer after sanding down is quite crucial because steel starts to oxidise very quickly - this is why powdercoating raw steel can also be quite tricky...

Lovely frame - really like the seat-lug - reminiscent of Ron Cooper.
on my bob I used 120 grit wet&dry in the rusty areas on the frame and a wire brush on a bench grinder to get into the deep details on the fork crown. I then degreased it pretty thoroughly with Acetone (nail polish remover) and left it to dry for a couple of hours and sprayed it with Halfords acrylic clear-coat. This was recommended by @luckyskull who used the same technique on his Concorde tarck-bike - it seems to key surprisingly well onto bare steel.

Thanks for the replys. I've started with some wet and dry on the larger areas of rust, there's lots of small bits as well , seems a shame to remove the paint for these so I might try some rust remover as well before clear coating .

@Rik_Van_Looy I'd be worried that acetone would damage any good paint still on the frame , I've seen it eat through plastic before !

^yes, my rags did come out a bit red, so I think I was removing some paint in the process, but in my case I wasn't hugely bothered, whereas your frame & paint is much better....

I'm sure there are better degreasing agents out there that don't attack the paint and don't leave a residue.... Isopropyl alcohol is pretty good, I'm not sure how much of a residue is left by white spirit and whether that'd cause problems....

I've tried some Rustins Rust remover as its supposed to be fine to use on paint , which it was. Found out after the active ingredient is phosphoric acid so its turned the rust black , just like rust converter but without the primer. Ill add some photos later.

The areas I had sanded down are now speckled black instead of brown where there is minor pitting, I'm not sure if Ill be able to remove this? Ill give it a going over with some more wet and dry and try sealing it with some clear nail polish.

Build wise : for now I'm just going to swap it out with my current single speed commuter build, which is a random selection of parts old and new. It currently has a 1990 Athena crankset though so may try and get hold of some D500 Athena Calipers to match. Could build up the rest of the group from there if I decide to put gears on .

Managed to get a quick build done this weekend, still waiting on few parts including a c-record headset I bought on ebay (also manged to misplace a couple of crank bolts before anyone spots it!). Using Athena Cranks and calipers, I've always liked this groupset. Think I will continue to ride single speed over winter and try to collect the rest of the groupset ready for spring and possibly respray at that point - for now I have sanded back the surface rust and covered with clear nail varnish, will see how it holds up . The fork paint is peeling off , may have to sand this back too.

Its a lovely, lively ride, tight clearances and feels very light despite some chunky components!

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](http://s1300.photobucket.com/user/zootsuit81/media/DSC03452Large_zpsb515d19c.jpg.html)

Considering a respray on this, I've already got two blue bikes so either flamboyant/candy purple à la 3Rensho or black, thinking of the recent Shand Chris Hoy Keirin bike.

Think both colours would go nicely with the gold decals. , any thoughts?...

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Rensho purple.

Just picked up an 8 Speed Athena group for this, still trying to decide on a colour for the frame...

So this just arrived in the post ! Full 8 speed athena groupset, apart from veloce front mech. Also would be nice to find a matching headset . Going to start cleaning it up over the next week or so ready to fit

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Dark metalic green or grey (gunmetal grey or blue) with some gumwalls :)

Funny i was thinking of those 2 colours. I think dark green may be a bit too vintage though , reminds me of 70s bikes and Dawes tourers! Maybe a gunmetal blue shade -something like this if I can find it ..

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^ celeste blue metallic

That's nice, I was thinking more

or

Nice , that Porshe is spot on !

After a few hiccups (seller didn't send the correct lockring) the groupset it on. A couple of issues though :

The clearances are so tight on this frame that the calipers are almost touching the tyres. If they don't re-centre perfectly they start to rub. I have a pair of athena d500 that I know fit but don't stop that well. Alternatively I may buy a set of modern veloce dual pivots to for the stopping power . Needless to say no chance of mudguards!

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Next issue is the front mech cable is rubbing on the mech spring in the small ring position. Have I routed this incorrectly ? I've played around with the limit screws but it's still just touching ...

Also the jockey wheel bolts are much too long and are hitting the spokes when on the largest sprocket . Must be replacements, will have to try and shorten them or find new ones . It's never simple !

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The Porsche is gunmetal blue, if you google the pic you will find a forum discussion on the color code.
I guess smaller tire or double pivot brake would solve the problem, whichever is more convinient?
A Dremmel with a cutting disc and a file would solve the bolt problem while they are still mounted.
Try clamping the cable a bit nearer to the ST or get those small rubber parts (don't know what you call them) for the cable for preventing the rub if you fear that the cable integrity might be endagered (doesn't look so bad?).

Good suggestion, I think I'm going to try a 23c tyre, its due some new ones anyway. The monoplanars are surprisingly good and almost feel like dual pivots, weirdly I have chorus and veloce ones on other bikes and these seem to stop the best. Perhaps because they're paired with the correct levers.

Turns out the jockey bolts were the originals but it has replacement Tacx Wheels so I guess they must be thinner than the originals ? I've put in a set of stranded bolts and they work fine

Cable rub doesn't seem to be causing a problem, i just thought it was a bit strange , I guess its down to the routing on the bottom bracket

Anyway groupset is performing great...its making me want get a respray now to finish it off!

Here's the build as is stands. Still undecided about respray, would be nice to finish it off but quite enjoying not having to worry about scratches as its my commuter. Some 23c Durano tyres sorted out the brake rub issue. Still amazed that the group is shifting so well considering I'm using the original cables. New hoods have made it a lot more comfortable as well.

Oh come on and treat it to a little respray, you'll not regret it. I vote sparkly purple. Nice project btw.