Fixed commuter disc brake stealth motherfucker

Cheers, just ordered and will see what happens...

Decided to go for the BB7 in the end... found a post from @edscoble within the last year saying that he had excellent results with it :-) That's good enough for me!

Sad as it sounds, I want a black chain to match the black everything else, but am having trouble finding a 3/32" chain in black. Any recommendations? (EDIT: never mind, I'm retared - you can run 1/8 chain on 3/32 chainring / sprocket but not the other way round. Going for Izumi 1/8 in black in case you're interested.)

Other than the fork everything is in stock and on its way to me; I'll hopefully start putting it together imminently.

I need some tools but not sure whether to go for a few high-quality (e.g. Park Tools) things that I definitely need, or get some kind of entry level tool kit.

I have allen keys, screwdrivers, etc. (although not particularly nice quality) but need a BB tool, not sure of what else?

As always any assistance would be much appreciated.

Cheers and happy Friday!

Never buy or use cheap tools :)

That. Wish my young self would have invested in quality instead of a cheap set.

My lord, have you considered the weight of those 1/8 chains?;)

If you must go cable disc, then the TRP Spyre is the brake to go for

Possibly. With a flat bar their Spyke MTB brake might be better.

True to form my Hope X2 Evo rear has started leaking fluid. FFS.

I went for drops innit coz I prefer them. BB7 was ordered so we'll see how it goes.

Nearly all the small bits of the bike arrived at work on Friday and today, frame also arrived. So I have (in no particular order) frame inc. headset and stock forks, cranks, bottom bracket, tyres, inner tubes, handlebars, stem, seatpost, saddle, bar tape, brake, brake levers, hubs. Rims should be delivered tomorrow, which means I can drop the hubs and rims off and get the wheels built. Wheelbuilding man has or is getting spokes and nipples.

Still no news on the Kinesis fork... hopefully no news is good news and it'll turn up but otherwise I have to wait until December. I can always use the stock forks and my current wheels (which I like - open pros and formula hubs - but are not BLACK).

@daveaa I had considered the weight of the chain and am going to remove half of each link in order to keep the weight down.

Actually speaking (writing?) of weight, I weighed the Dolan frame which is advertised as being 1.78KG for a 54cm... LIES!!!!!!! I bought a 52 and it's fucking 1.875KG!!!! I was nearly physically sick when I saw the scale... am thinking about returning it under the trade descriptions act. Looks sweet though.

Not that anyone really cares (not even me!) but I am awaiting wheels and tools before I start this build. Ordered what looked like a good quality tool kit from Rose Bikes (for a fraction of what the equivalent Park Tools kit would have cost me) but it won't be delivered until December. Wheels should be done in the next couple of weeks.

Forks were finally delivered on Friday - note of caution: if an online vendor uses UK Mail as their courier, run a fucking mile. They tried to deliver 5 fucking times and finally managed it on the last attempt. Didn't even make it through the gate the first 3 times, apparently. Idiots.

So... yeah. Might not get this done before the new year, what with Christmas and all that good stuff, but we'll see.

OK, so I now have my wheels.

With a bit of hard work (and two pinch flats) I have got both tyres (Michelin Pro4 endurance) onto the rims but the bead on one of them is not seating in the rim properly.

I've only gone up to 60PSI - is just a matter of getting enough air in the tube to 'pop' the side of the tyre out and into the groove? This is what happened with the first one.

If not, what do I do?

Thanks!!

That's pretty normal for the tyres to make that popping sound, pump it up to 100psi to hook the bead in nicely then deflate.

Cheers Ed, much appreciated!

So I totally forgot to let you guys know that I built my bike - here is a picture. Apologies for the crappy brickwork and any other faux pas that I may have committed.

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That look like it work really well, very impress with it, pretty much how I would want my fixed road to be.

Might need a seatpost with more setback on the for the saddle.

Yeah, I'm really pleased with it... now has a rack and mudguards but in the pic above it weighed less than my carbon Ribble.

I think I might try out a few different seatposts and / or stems - the position is a little more stretched out than I'm used to and I don't really have any idea how to adjust things. Maybe that's the next thing i can investigate!

The drivetrain is a little 'grindy' for want of a better word. My old single speed was the same when I first bought it but I thought the chain / sprocket etc. would have worn in by now. I've done just over 100 miles on it so might leave it a bit longer before I start messing with it. It might be a chainline issue, who knows? (Not me).

If you're comfortable on the Ribble, get the saddle position sorted (distance from nose of saddle to BB horizontally) if you're using the same saddle on the Ribble.

Once that's out of the way, measure the distance from saddle nose to front of stem, the Dolan is usually 10-15mm longer for the size being a track bike.

Saddle position can affect reach, so it's best to get this sorted first before playing with the stem length.

Forgot to say thanks (again) for your help Ed, I appreciate it. Have been browsing a great many other threads and have to say that I have learnt a lot! Actually more used to the position now, it doesn't feel like a stretch, I'm just less upright than I was on my old bike (with brake levers adjacent to the stem).

Now... I think I may have a chainline issue. Bike still feels a bit 'grindy' and is noisy even though I've done well over 200 miles on it so far. Thought the chain might need breaking in, but it's the same as it was on the first day I started riding it.

I used an Ultegra BB and 105 crankset mounted to a Thorn 130mm BCD 5 Arm Reversible 3/32 Inch Single Chainring from SJS.

I've checked Sheldon but I don't know whether the chainline for road doubles is measured from between the inner and outer? Sheldon states specifies 43.5mm for Hollowtech II road double and Halo track hub should be 42mm I believe? But I don't know if that is correct if I'm basically just using the equivalent of the inner chainring.

From what I've read, a mm or two shouldn't make a difference but should I get a 2mm spacer and put this between the hub and sprocket?

Or am I on the wrong track? (i.e. not actually a chainline issue!)

Thank you...

PS any tips for getting the decals off the wheels? Started trying but they peel off in tiny pieces and I can't imagine how long it would take!

hair blower

Try and get a bit of purchase on them, it'll come eventually. Residue will come off with nail varnish remover. Or hair dryer as mentioned above.

Will one of you who talked up road doubles for fgss please answer the chainline question plz ;-)

.....you might need to use a 8/9sp chain.

Cool cool cool. Can I get one in black though???

Yep. Buy a silver one and don't wipe it.