This was pre-pandemic, no idea what it would be like now.
It was years ago now, but similar experience of Belem being rammed. I also didn't think they were particularly special - pretty sure we had better elsewhere though I can't remember where. But I was far more interested in Azeitão cheese that I'd never heard of before and made my best effort to make up for 3 and bit decades of not having known about it to be able to seek it out to eat. Cheese > custard tarts.
Some highlights from a recent trip:
Cervejaria Ramerio - a famous seafood restaurant with mildly aggressive turnover. Like Tayyabs. Don't go to luxuriate over a long meal, get in, order wine, smash through loads of plates of delicious seafood (prawns, razor clams, langoustines, crabs etc) and go somewhere nice to digest it.
Little tap room - sells lovely beer, but the reason to go is the view over Lisbon and the castle. Go at night time and just stand on the street with locals and students taking in the view.
Vino Vero - vibey little winebar, sit on the street with the locals drinking lovely vinho verde!
Botanical Gardens - these were banging, really dramatic in a massive greenhouse. Lovely way to spend an hour or two.
Go to one of the various viewpoints (Miradouro) with a bottle of wine to watch the sun set and the lights come on over the city.
It may be a bit basic, but we did a sunset sailing trip around the river. This one. It was great. Lovely way to see the city, cool sailing boat was cool. Sunset is nice. There was wine.
The sailing chap recommended something that I would have loved to do if we'd had time. There's a cool 'abandoned city' thing on the other side of the river, used to be linked to tuna canning I think. He said you can get taxi boats things to go there and there are two restaurants there that he said were amongst his favourite in Lisbon. Looks like this one I think. Really wish we'd had time to go....
Great vegan food here
I'll definitely be checking out some of those
Great pastel de nata right outside our hotel. My wife sent a photo from the inside of the place and one of her colleagues from Portugal recognised where we were and said it was his preferred place to buy them.
I'm Portuguese myself and lived in Lisbon for about 6 years - never tried the Pastéis de Belém store. It's usually seen as a tourist trap, you can get good pastéis de nata/Belém literally everywhere.
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