Was wondering why I kept going backwards...
Putting some build plan/ideas for the Scott Addict RC that I'm getting sent in the next few days:
Hill Climb -
Duraace 9070 Di2 rear derailleur
Duraace 9000 crankset with 40T garbaruk 1x ring*
Duraace 11-28 cassette
Duraace left TT shifter (non Di2)*
Durace right 9070 di2 TT lever*
Planet X CNC brakes
Controltech carbon bullhorns (150g)
Woodman carbon seatpost + Selle SLR Tekno (170g)
Lightweight Meillenstein 19 clinchers with Vittoria Latex / 23mm Veloflex record clinchers
Sram Red eTap 11 speed groupset
3t ergonova carbon stealth 38cm dropbars
Force CX1 crankset with 1x chainring (maybe 52t)
More reasonable seatpost/saddle
OR Duraace Di2, and move eTap onto my Venge.
The frame is BB86, and di2 only, but maybe set up for original di2 with cables running externally on the chainstay. eTap would be neater and simpler, but don't think I can fit my Sram red BB30 crank in BB86.
Would the longer PF30 Force 1 crank fit, assuming I replace with a PF30 converter BB?
Force cranks are BB86 compatible, just needs the right amount of spacers
I know I can get a bb86 pressfit GXP BB, can I find a 22mm reducing shim to suit a Shimano BB86 bottom bracket?
Trying to avoid removing a brand new shimano BB.
Frame has arrived!
883g with pressfit BB86 shimano BB (54g) and 25g rear derailleur hanger and cable guide.
Makes the frame approx. 800g.
15g seatpost clamp.
Uncut forks with expander plug - 351g, should be 300g once cut.
Starting weight 1100g. Not bad!
Very competitive weight...
The frame has 3 holes which I presume is for Di2 routing. A large hole on the NDS downtube at the top and a large hole on the bottom of the downtube, as well as a small hole near the derailleur hanger that seems too small for a di2 cable.
There is a cable guide for externally routing the di2 cable with cable tie clips on the DS chain stay.
Would this work with a seatpost mounted battery? The seatpost is 31.6mm so need to find a different battery holding solution.
Externally routing di2 cables seems a bit old fashioned, so probably going eTap to save some hassle?
Which brings the next issue.
BB is BB86 24mm shimano.
Can’t put a Shimano crank with eTap, just wrong.
Power meter Cranks I have currently:
-BB30 Sram Red 165mm + stages - won’t fit has spindle too short
-Verve infocrank Classic 170mm - has 24mm spindle so would fit, but visually a bit grim and it’s about 300g heavier than the above.
-Sram Force 11 165mm with stages - has 30mm PF30 length spindle and will need a BB change. As light as Sram Red, especially if I get a direct Mount 1x chainring.
-Rotor Aldhu 165mm no power - same spindle length as above, Can also have direct Mount chainring for light weight.
Any opinions on PF30 BBs in a BB86?
I know that bearing life will be affected due to much smaller bearings.
No point on going all weenie and chucking in a heavy crank. Get Force or Aldhu in with a new BB. Aldhu will be lighter in a 2x configuration with DM rings
Yeah, looks like 30mm bearings are the way to go, though the web says that bearing life if compromised due to smaller bearings?
Without spending silly money, looks like the Rotor 4130 at £30 or Hope 4130 at £50.
Was going for 1x front, so probably a 54t Force Cx1 ring with 11-28 on the back for crits, and drop to a 42/44T direct Mount chainring for hill climb mode.
Almost all bottom brackets I service are out due to contamination rather than wear. Still, 24mm BBs usually have better seals, more durability with bigger bearings too.
Praxis BB are usually pretty solid too.
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Congrats to Tao on winning the Giro