Nice one. You have a PM. :)
The trike was collected yesterday and couldn't have gone to a better home. Your mate is a legend.
I think he is quite possibly the only person who is both capable of mending it and who would actually want to ride it.
I'm expecting to see it being used in a club time trial - possibly even this year.
As I expect you know, changing that sprocket isn't all that easy because it's necessary to grind off the remains of the old one and then braze the new one in position - but it has to be almost perfectly concentric or you have a chain tension problem.
Does anyone have any recommendations for brake pads suitable to fit GB Hidumnium (1st style) brakes-either that fit the original holders or in their own holders that look correct and will fit. The pads on mine are rock hard so stopping barely happens, and although these brakes are hardly the greatest stoppers, I would like a little stopping power so I don't crash!
You've probably solved this by now, but here goes:
My experience is that all brake shoes ('holders') of this type (i.e. conventional callipers) are interchangeable. So you can use, for example, Weinmann shoes and brake blocks ('pads').
I think you're correct when you say the hardness of your existing brake blocks is what's stopping you from stopping; I don't think there's anything wrong with the GB callipers that won't be cured by using better brake blocks.
It used to be normal practice to buy just the blocks and put them into the existing shoes, which were open at the back to make this easy. It was necessary to notice which way round the shoes should be fitted, otherwise the brake block would eject itself under braking, and possibly this was the reason why the shoes came to be closed at both ends.
Don't be put off by this - it's easy enough to bend the closing end wall of the shoe and insert a new block in the old way - just be sure that you keep the end that you've bent open at the back when fitting to the calliper, since too much bending will cause metal fatigue with the possibility of the shoe breaking and the block coming out under braking (as above!).
I live in the states and rarely see Claud Butlers. I love crusty bikes, but damn this one's looking especially rough. Still tempting at $50...
That would (IMHO) look great with a gentle clean of the paint and a clearcoat. It's an early 70's low-end frame and kit, but perfectly usable. Go for it, and don't forget to start a project thread so we can enjoy (and critique) your every move ;-)
Not solved yet so that's really helpful, (as ever clubman). Will be perusing the internet for something for these tonight, I think SJS cycles usually website have these odd old blocks and sizes so that will be my first stop. Good to be able to get advice from such knowledgeable chaps as yourself. Many Thanks
It will be interesting to hear how you get on.
@jeff80 I'm fairly sure I put Clarks blocks in the GB calipers I had. Looking at the various ones on ebay I think they were the CP100.
decent looking original Claud Butler
P.A. Lewendon Paroyal Cycles is a new one on me. Very original looking 22 1/2" path racer:
Unusual Holdsworth mixte frame and folks at a bargain BIN price:
Last set sold for over 500 quid at the start of june. The price stayed low for most of the listing then went crazy towards the end. Nothing compared to the set that sold during loxkdown for £900.
The Hobbs added up head by @SideshowBob is now for sale over on retro bike: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/1948-hobbs-raceweight-in-original-paintwork.447502/#post-3260675
I've been looking for a roadster frame with rod brakes for some years - they are surprisingly difficult to find now, especially if you exclude (as I do) the later Raleighs which will only accept crappy Raleigh bottom bracket bearings.
The challenge is to make a useable roadster as near as possible comparable with the Marcel Planes BSA of 1913 which has now gone to a new VCC custodian.
I have, ready to fit, an excellent pair of 26 x 1.25" Westwood rimmed wheels with an AW Sturmey hub and a good Williams/BSA chainset. So not too much to find.
As found the bike weighs about 35 lbs, which is disappointing (the BSA was just under 30lbs) - some of my kit will be a bit lighter, but the Sturmey will be a good pound heavier than the current single freewheel.
I will report on the finished version.
More Sunbeam Pics.
This bike is almost certainly a war time production and made to skimpy standards. It looks to me as though there was minimal pre-treatment of the paint and the chrome. Both are flaking off in sheets.
On the other hand I think the machine has never had much use - the teeth on the sprockets show no wear.
Nice! Can't wait for the updates!
Will you repaint it? And, I guess, the current saddle would also need a replacement?
Interesting. You should have said you were on the look out for a roadster, i would have kept an eye out, this looks more like a town bike, doesnt it?
Everything except the brakes (which include the handlebars and stem) and the frame will be changed.
Painting: I'll have to make sure I like riding it enough before I bother with painting.
By 'Roadster' I mean a bike with upturned bars, Westwood rims and rod brakes. They usually have seat stays bolted on rather than brazed, and rearward opening rear fork ends (you could hardly call them 'track ends' but it comes to the same thing). This machine does have brazed stays and forward opening rear ends, but it is still clearly a roadster; I don't think anyone could possibly describe it as anything to do with sport.
These machines developed in the 1890's and were still very common into the 1950's - in fact they were the most common type throughout the golden age of utility cycling. They were considered suitable for touring certainly up to world war one, and were still widely used for this between the wars - my Mum did an epic ride on her roadster in the late 30's. So although we may think of the 1930's as a time when people had desirable lightweights which we would like to own today, actually most cycling by most people was done on roadsters.
I wouldn't have considered riding one of these when I was racing, not even to go to the corner shop, but now I suppose I'm interested in trying to re-create a little corner of the lost world of pre-war touring. I hope the outcome won't be seriously disappointing.
Nice Hobbs -
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