• Pretty pleased as punch to now be looking after this.
    Will be asking for lots of advice if that’s ok, to get this back on the road. Gentle restore and as period-correct-as-possible bits and bobs.
    Wheels need the most attention. The rims look ok, maybe a rebuild with new spokes?
    Going to take the time to do this well rather than run at it in my normal bull-in-a-bikeshop build lol


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  • That's lovely. Looking forward to seeing it built up. Reminds me of one of my Hobbs'.

  • I really don't like to see prices like the one demanded for this Selbach - the bikes will end up as objets d'art and thus become unrideable - which misses the point of my interest in old bikes.

    Have we all noticed that the forks of this 'original' Selbach seem not to be original? Those in the bike as it's assembled now certainly look like Selbach forks (which usually have this distinctive curve) but they have a lot of tyre clearance whereas those in the old photo are fairly tight. Also the crown looks different to me.

    It's odd that the advertiser appears to think that a single brake with a freewheel is 'road legal'.

  • Was looking at those earlier. I think this is what I have, but there doesn’t appear to be stamps or maker name on mine? Is that usual?
    Edit. Mine are also 32/40 spoke count.


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  • Don't think yours are Alumlite as the raised part of your rim is rounded and the other ones are more square ,Sharp edged.

  • Ah, I see that now. Any pointers on what mine might be? There’s a capital ’M’ stamped on the inside near the valve hole of the rear and an ‘R’ one the front rim.

  • Tips for gently cleaning the aluminium calipers would be very welcome. Will disassemble them this weekend and clean up the metal springs with wire wool but I don’t want to f-up the rest (and what I think are brass cable end-y bits?)

  • My Ellis Briggs is finally sorted out and seems to ride ok. The Gran Sport rear really does change very smoothly and the front 'suicide' shifter is actually very easy to use, being so simple (although it can rub a little if I'm not careful as it lacks a limit screw of sorts-I think someone previous has snapped it off)

    I did have some mudguards on it for winter but the rear wheel has a buckle and is a bit out of round so they rub-I shall have to wait until I find a replacement wheel. (hopefully at this weekends Muswell Hill Jumble. ) To be honest I think I prefer the look of it without them, but I do want this one to be a rideable bike and so guards are a must for the next 6 months or so!


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  • a few details
    Gnutti Cranks with alloy TA adaptor rings


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  • the remains of the original seat tube decals with the 'suicide' lever


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  • and the head badge with mystery rivet holes (excuse the Viking sticker on the stem bolt-it came with the stem)


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  • they also have a apparently complete Osgear set up for sale. Quite tempting...

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174975073450?­hash=item28bd53bcaa:g:Q8gAAOSwek9hZeZp

  • Oooh nice, Always wanted a bike with Osgear.

  • Doesn't ring any bells with me , Perhaps some photos of the stamped letters up on this thread and someone will bound to know the maker.

  • Page 10 on this thread has what I did with some, Didn't want to make them really shiny
    https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/3356­28/

  • I thought it looked similar to this
    weinnman 27.1.1/4 alloy rim


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  • It does a bit, but are those dimpled spoke holes raised? Mine are flush with the rim.

  • My first thought was an early Weinmann as well. I don’t know if they were all dimpled.

  • Does anyone here have a pair of those William Lennon Arturo leather cycling shoes?

    The insoles on mine are made of a kind of compressed cardboard or something and it's disintegrating. It's similar to the crappy insole material at the toe end of a Doc Marten boot. I was thinking of carefully removing it, using it as a template and replacing it with 2-3mm thick leather.

    Edit: I've peeled one of them back. On closer inspection, the inside of the sole itself appears to be leather and it has a thin compressed cardboard insole bonded onto it with a thin crappy textile liner which has come off. I think I'll carefully remove the cardboard bit, scrape the leather inner free of debris and bond on a fresh leather insole using the old one as a template.

    This was two years ago. I’ve made quite a satisfactory fix by removing the textile bit and simply using some Kiwi leather insoles cut to fit. The shoes are actually really comfortable to walk in now, and I’ve covered at least a couple of hundred miles on the bike.


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  • So I have it on good authority these are early Dunlop AP rims, looks like a rebuild around them then.
    Today I have mostly been cleaning brake calipers. Very, very gently.
    Anyone got any Fibrax 259 type brake blocks they want to move on?
    Also looking for some top tube cable clips (Terry? brand), rattier the better so as they don’t leap out :)


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  • Spent the morning practicing some minor repairs before I tackle one of my other old jerseys which needs a bit more surgery.
    1) I tacked down the hem in various places. It’s been re-hemmed at some point with nylon thread so it’s nice and elastic at the bottom. It had broken away in a couple of places and was coming undone, though, and I kept catching my finger in it when putting it on. I tied the nylon thread back up to stop it unwinding itself and then tacked the hem down with red cotton.
    2) There was a small hole on the tummy which needed darning. I did it in off-white cotton. I’ve not done this before so it’s not the best repair in the world, but it’ll stop it getting any worse and I can always unstitch it and re-do it later. It could do with thicker thread really (and a bit more practice).
    3) The top right of the U was pulling away. I reinforced it with some stitches from the back.


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Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

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