Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • I’ve done that before and made a right pigs ear of it - I mean, it worked, but it looked pretty messy. This looked like it would need a fair bit of persuading to bend enough to fit, so I wanted to try something that might look a bit neater.

    I have ridden it like this now, with a bit of weight on the rack and did some emergency breaking. No fiery death straight away, which is something :-)
    Also no annoying rattle, although I’ll still put a slightly longer bolt in when it arrives.

  • First time having to replace the brake pads on my HT.
    I have Shimano hydro XT set-up, IIRC.

    1. how do I know which replacement part to order? Is there some online database somewhere?

    2. what's the narrowest 'summer' tyres I could run on Boost axle hubs? (currently running 'grippy' 2.8" which I feel are OTT for spring/summer riding)

  • Pads are probably Shimano g or j depending on if you want fins or not, assuming they're not new 4 pot XT or a too old to come on something with boost as a standard, so G04S for sintered steel backed etc.

    Tyre is rim width based rather than hub, if the bike came with 2.8s you've probably got something around a 30mm rim, so maybe a nice 2.5 would be good.

  • Will a 4700 clutch rear mech work with a 10 speed 6700 shifter to run a miche 36 rear ?

    Or
    Shimano GRX RD-RX400 10-Speed Shadow+ Rear Derailleur

  • Thanks. Much helpful. I haven't bought mtb tyres in a long time (like never probably), and am astonished by the prices charged PER TYRE.

  • They should be the only part of the bike on the floor most of the time, you want them to be good.

  • Both of those use the “new 10 speed” pull ratio and won’t work with 6700 shifters.

    A 9 speed (not 10 speed!) MTB clutch mech will have the right ratio.

  • Thanks

  • Any idea if this is paint or aluminium crack? Thanks!


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  • The cute spider crack looks like just paint, but the tube has had a fair whack and is pretty dented.

  • Cheers (and cheers to @snottyotter as well). There's no spacer between cassette and hub—I think I'm just gonna have to go back to an 11t.

  • What's stopping me from running bearings with just a dusting of PTFE powder instead of grease? Just been thinking about it after experimenting with chain waxing, and having a big bag of PTFE kicking around. If lubrication is about stopping metal on metal contact, and I'm not running the bearing in a situation that needs water keeping out (bearing has a shield anyway) then wouldn't a low friction powder work quite well? Someone with more engineering experience than myself, enlighten me.

  • Guess it wouldn't stick where it's needed and end up getting chucked around the lower part of the bearing like forgotten spare change in a washing machine.

  • A fork with a little more rake solved the fit problem on the Graham Weigh frame I posted about, just in case anybody was curious. The stock forks were very "tracky"

  • Hi, I’m having this problem where a slit appears just above the bead of my front tyre, it’s happened on three different tyres and on two different wheels.
    What am I doing to cause this?


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  • Second tyre


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  • Does it happen in the same place relative to the rim every time?

  • Are you using tyre levers to install the tyre? Or running on flat tyres or under inflated tyres?

  • I had a few tyres do this a while back, turned out I was over inflating.

  • Rim brake?

  • @snottyotter yes, rim brake, I suspected that maybe my pads were too high but wasn’t sure, is that possibly the cause?

  • Possibly, worth checking.

  • This happened to me years ago, I stupidly thought I had shit tires.

  • On a steel road bike, the tire is closer to one fork blade than the other, it stays closer to the same fork blade when flipped around, suggesting the fork is misaligned/slightly bent.

    Can any decent bike shop sort this? How much should I expect to pay?

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

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