Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Get a hammer and a couple of bits of wood and knock it back (closer) into line

They're no harder to rebuild that anything else if everything is pretty new and you've got a decent tool (not the included plastic one), Mavic don't seem to believe in preparing spokes/rims/threads and/or British weather though so they often get seized which does make it a pain in the arse, especially reusing spokes.

I had a wheel with a mtb rim that used those nipple cups and I had to replace a pile of the spokes or nipples or something, can’t remember exactly.

I bought the metal tool and a load of the cups, wasn’t too expensive.

As Snotty said, the threads were all dry so there was a lot of oxidisation around, made unscrewing some of them a bit difficult but it was fine. Chucked some grease on them when I reassembled. It’s an extra step in the build process but it’s definitely not the end of the world.

I have the Park spoke nipple tool which would work on those.

Let me kn9w, only caveat is I need a deposit for it due to some tools not being returned in the borrowing thread.

I need to replace my stem clamp fasteners as they’re nearly rounded out. The current setup is an M4 bolt with an M4 recessed nut with a hex top to stop it turning when you tighten. A bit like a rim brake nut?

I need something to replace the rounded nut at short notice (this weekend), I would use a normal nut but the cavity is slightly recessed and I can’t tighten a normal one. My LBS didn’t have an M4 sized recessed nut. What can I try instead? A longer bolt and a stack of normal nuts to keep me going this weekend?

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Cut a slot in the head so you can resort to a screwdriver if necessary?

Looks like M5 to me.

Carbon stem, always use grip paste and a torque wrench if you don't already do.

Looks like M5 to me.

This, I have a Deda (I think) seapost that uses a simlarly shaped sleeve nut type deal.

One of these,

Also, might the nut from a v brake pad be the right size? Might need a longer bolt to engage with it though.

V brakes are M6 ain't they?

What's rounding, the bolt heads? Just use the same nuts and new bolts.

It’s the odd size nuts that are rounding unfortunately. The bolt would be a straight swap otherwise. I have a spare rim brake calliper nut but it’s too big.

Think this is M4?

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Don't use the thin bits of the caliper jaws. Put the chonky/flat part of the jaws over the actual threads of the bolt and measure there.

Ah. Every day is a school day etc. Guess that’s a 5 then. thanks

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Hi, this is potentially a very noob question, but do you get SRAM brifters with a brake release on them like this?
https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=72
(ideally to work with a 10speed SRAM groupset)

I have Cantilever brakes with SRAM brifters, but I can’t remove the wheel without deflating it or disconnecting the brakes.

On a different bike, I had those tektro brake levers, and that release worked well.

Is there a better solution I'm missing?

I'm trying to get everything ready to try tubeless, but it just occurred to me I can't get an inflated tyre past my brakes.

I have Cantilever brakes with SRAM brifters, but I can’t remove the wheel without deflating it or disconnecting the brakes.

Disconnecting the brakes how exactly? Most cantilever brakes have a quick release method to allow you to remove the wheel. Like in this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvo03zBTkOw&ab_channel=MadeGoodBikes

So I've got tektro 720s but there's not enough length on the straddle cable to get the nipple out, so disconnecting the brakes means undoing the clamp.

Do you think I need to fiddle with the set-up a bit then?
I quite like the way they brakes feel so ideally wouldn't increase the straddle length that much.

Edit: So I think you’re right, the answer is probably to fiddle with the set-up so I get the mechanical advantage I want, but with enough length in the straddle cable to still be able to unhook the nipple. Thanks!

You'll have to accept a lot of things as a canti user, this is one of the easiest, just deflate your tyre a bit.

.

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Any chance that was posted this morning?

A longer bolt, a spacer that fits in the recessed cavity and a nut poking out.
You can order this in the long run or something similar, there's many brands with this solution, someone should sell spares
[https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?

:)

Not even an oval chainring, april 1st'ers need to step up their game.

Also a fail on account of oval chainrings wouldn't have an effect on tension like described

Depends on the crank position when you adjusted the chain tension. There is a small variation in tension as the chainring rotates, so it would either go a bit slack or bind up.

Although Sheldon says it's small enough to still be rideable, but Sheldon can ride anything:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html