Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • Taken some 6800 shifters off one bike, put them on another, and now there's a very irritating click noise whenever the brake lever is pulled. I can see it's the shifter paddle getting stuck on the outer edge of brake lever, the click is when it drops back into the recess. Why the fuck is it now doing that, and how do I make it stop?

  • Anyone know where I can get some. 0.5mm bb spacers?

    For some reason my gxp crank and bb situation needs 1mm off spacing to work and I don't won't one side offset more than other x

  • Also ... DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BANJO! That's screwed right into plastic and if you strip it the lever is a write off.

  • I'm setting up grx 11 speed mechanical and have run into a strange issue.

    Had the same kit on the same bike previously and it worked great.

    Refitting it now and the upper jockey wheel is grounding out on the large cassette sprocket.

    This has to be an error on my part. Any tips on what it might be? I've tried B screw adjustment. Could this be caused by excessive chain length or incorrect shift cable routing into the pinch bolt?

  • Have you got the derailleur on the hanger properly? It should be off the back of it, not down, chain should be the right length but it's probably not affecting it, and yeah, the B screw will need setting properly.

  • No experience with GRX but had the same issue on 10 speed Record with a 29t rear cassette. If you can't get it to clear with B screw adjustment a shorter chain would pull the mech clear, just need to be cautious of too small for a big/big scenario

  • Cheers, all that looks fine to me so my working hypothesis is I'm misunderstanding the B screw and need to try turning it the opposite way

  • Cheers, will bear that in mind. Luckily it's 1* so chain length is pretty obvious. It looks right tbh

  • Dunno if it's the same with GRX, but I've been fiddling with an SLX derailleur that has an extra bit that sits against the hanger tab, and then the B screw sits against the extra bit. If your mech has it, double check it's sitting right.

  • Chain too short... Or B screw.

  • First time cabling Shimano shifters - should the gear ferrule with orientation slot stick out a bit as per the photo? Is the same for both shifters and covered by the hoods but wanted to check

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  • A bit, yeah, when you've cabled it all up, shift all the way up and give the cable a good pull somewhere to settle everything all the way in.

  • Perfect, cheers

  • Schoolboy error means I've cut my chain too short. Is this just a straight new chain or can I McGyver something with another quick link? Get the feeling the latter would be frowned upon/asking for a broken chain the first time I put it under stress, but what does the panel think? Ta.

  • Nice. Is the foolproof way to just add one link at a time until it works on big chainring/cog and small chainring/cog? It's a triple chainset, BTW.

  • There are different methods but I just use the big ring / largest cog routine as below. Has always worked for me - including the modification for 1x set-ups:­air-help/chain-length-sizing

    Adding one link at a time until it is right means you could end up with more joins than necessary which I try to avoid, and also you’d end up with your multiple joins at the same part of the chain.

    Having said that 2 joins is fine. I have done this on the Surly (1 quick link and 1 joining rivet, separated by half a dozen links) as standard length chains weren’t long enough for 1x11 + Trucker chainstays.

  • ^That.
    The correct way is big/big not through the derailleur plus a pair of links on top of the shortest you could make it, from there you usually add another pair for 1x and another for suspension.

  • Set the gearing to the big cog at the back, then open the quicklink without taking the chain off and move the chain round until both ends are sitting on the big ring's teeth, with some sort of gap in between. The rear mech will fight you, so an assistant or a velcro strap may be useful.

    Work out what the smallest gap is you can have without the rear mech looking over extended. Add that many links.

    A chain with two quicklinks is not really any more likely to fail than one.

  • Just watched the Campagnolo version (which I'm using) and they do small/small/through derailleur, which is what I did. Problem is, small front chainring is tiny on a triple, so the chain ends up really short to avoid it touching itself at the rear derailleur when on the smallest cog. Anyway, I'll give it another whirl tomorrow. Thanks for the (heh) links.

  • Campagnolo version

    Ignore them.

  • Hehe. No, I mean the Park Tool video for sizing chains for Campagnolo drive trains.

  • Problem is, small front chainring is tiny on a triple, so the chain ends up really short to avoid it touching itself at the rear derailleur when on the smallest cog.

    Don't cross-chain.

  • I mean, I can't see the situation when I'd ever have the chain in the small chainring and the smallest cog, but there must be a way of having the chain length so you could if you wanted but also have it on the big ring and largest cog (which I probably wouldn't use either).

  • My bodged triple bike (Shimano) has a chain that's too long and nothing bad happens when you shift into small-small. It just make some funny noises. Worst case it comes off.

    If you have a chain that's too short for big-big, if you accidentally shift into that gear the whole lot seizes up and your rear mech may experience fiery death.

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle