Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • that's not a mechanic's job, that's for an enthusiast.

    Yeah, I kinda forget about this when it's day to day shit and time isn't money, have at it and hopefully it doesn't creak after.

  • Cost you an arm and leg and/or your left kidney? IF that's not an issue, then fair game, I'll like to add Phil to the list which I love and have a couple.

    Everything is possible within limits, time however is the essence and I value that over anything else.

  • Indeed...

    That's not even a serviceable part, I'll do it if a customer wants, charged by the hour £50 a pop and no guarantee it won't creak.

  • That´s a good point.

    Leaving aside the fact that I hate feeding the landfill and that I love the kick of dopamine that repairing things gives me, there´s not much value in learning to service a BB something I´ll probably never do again. And yes, I could use this time to actually ride my other bikes.

  • I have a 90s Moser Sprinter. Took it out the shed this morning and the cable stop and shifter boss on the right hand side had snapped off the frame!

    Seems a pretty unusual setup - the stops bolt into one another through holes on either side of the downtube. Seems to be a design also used on Cannondales and a cursory search shows replacements are unavailable. Couldn't see anything on SJS either. Am I limited to using a clamp-on boss now, or does anyone know of a replacement?

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  • Having thought about it, I reckon the easiest fix will be: good dollop of Sugru between frame and stops to seal holes and stop rotation, threaded bar through the frame and cable stops, nuts on the outside to secure. Would be neater with a length of internally threaded bar but will see what I can get hold of.

    90s CAAD issues appear similar:­hreads/downtube-shifter-boss-cable-stop-­mounts.311/

  • Drill out the broken one and use an extra long bolt on that side that goes all the way to the back of the good one?

  • Yeah the threaded bar turns, has a little internal hex on the broken side so I can back out the sheared bit and try to thread onto the other boss or do it as you described. Helped me pass the morning coming up with solutions!

  • I'm all for saving stuff and reducing landfill, BB though no way.

    If I sounded rude, I'm not, just blunt!

  • Don't have one, got a cock though ;)

  • Not at all!

    Was just your feedback, which was a good point, cheers!

  • I reckon I could have a bash at turning a braze on shifter boss and a sleeve nut into that.

    Edit: I've just realised that the broken side must be slightly different to the remaining one, maybe not so easy to replicate...hmmm.

  • You're a gent for offering, but managed to work through a solution for now.

    It's a really odd design. The threaded bar has a hex in the end so you can rotate it through the shifter bosses to get the assembly tight - you can also rotate the boss separate to the curved downtube washer to nip it up. Hopefully painting pictures with words here as I didn't take many pics!

    I unscrewed the sheared bit of boss, backed out some more threaded bar from the good side so it would reach the remnant of the other boss and tightened. Cable stops back on and hopefully good to go for a few more miles!

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  • If the washer is separate from the boss, then the broken boss bit would be a very quick job for someone with a lathe.

  • Good thinking. I got lucky and was able to thread the boss onto the bar despite the grotty way it failed

  • I have a slipping seatpost on my steel road bike, already degreased it and put carbon paste but it doesn't help much.
    Does something like an extra clamp around the (27.2) seatpost exist? Seperate from the normal clamp I mean, because that's integrated on this frame.
    Would also help me with putting the seatpost at the same height every time after I remove it (which i have to do a lot)

  • I could buy something like this and cut the top part off but prefer something a bit tidier

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  • Have you tried a different clamp? Or a different seatpost?

  • Perhaps obvious but if it's slipping, something's wrong.

    Is it definitely the correct size post that you have?

    You say the clamp is integrated, has it gotten distorted such that the two sides hit each other when you do up the bolt?

    How's the thread in the intgrated clamp? Clean/greased?

  • I measured the (deda zero) post and its exactly 27,2mm. It's one of these old school steel frame clamps. Everything looks okay, I had been like this since it was new, I guess they just reamed it a bit too much...

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  • Yeah I guess it's pretty unlikely that it's meant to be a 27.4 post.

    The bits behind the bolt aren't hitting each other when you tighten up?

  • No there is still a normal gap. It's not that bad, it just likes to slip down on bumpy roads and such...

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle