Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted on
Page
of 97
First Prev
/ 97
  • Fair enough. I've got a v brake on the front, only fitted as I didn't like the cable workarounds to fit a v brake on the back with current brazings.

    I've got Shimano servowave levers with the hi/lo settings. Currently set in the middle position, I'm not sure if changing this would alter anything. I'll raise the straddle wire a bit and experiment.

  • If that were set up tubeless, I'd expect there to be a retaining nut around the valve stem. My gut feeling is it's got a tube in it.

  • I've got Shimano servowave levers with the hi/lo settings.

    These?

    If so, they'll be your problem, they are v brake levers.

  • I've got Shimano servowave levers with the hi/lo settings. Currently set in the middle position, I'm not sure if changing this would alter anything.

    +1 to M_V's answer. Best performance with cantis will be in the H position (effectively moves the cable position closest to the lever pivot), but it won't be an ideal match.

  • Mystery solved, thanks everyone

  • Hello, one of the little cylinder things that act as rockers and that mounts road brake cable in shimano shifters has got lost. It looks like (attached) but my one was rougher than that and came out of some soras PLEASE PLEASE does anyone have a spare?


    1 Attachment

    • s-l640.jpg
  • thanks, it was the first place i looked but i was put off by spending the same again on postage for something the size of a largish vitamin

  • Thanks for that info, interesting to know. Probably a marketing thing with little differences (also I thought when I first saw the flat top chains coming out "wow are they making chains now which are easier to produce" – even if there's more material to be sold)

  • I should have one spare, are you London based or would you need postage?

  • I've acquired a 1991 Specialized Hardrock, intended as a gift, which as ever appeared great until I sat on it and discovered all the issues. The most intractable one is that it has a 25.4 diameter seatpost which is undersize, so the previous owner had tightened the clamp to shit in an effort to hold it.
    Un-fucking the seat clamp isn't an issue, done that before, but I can't assess the proper diameter for a replacement seatpost. I initially thought 27.2 but that's definitely too wide, and research suggests 26.0 (or 26.4/26.6 etc...). Does anybody have one of these they could check the diameter on? Or any advice!

  • did you see Sheldon's database? looks like 26.4 probably
    https://www.sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-si­zes-m-z.html#s

  • Ah, no! Thanks for that.
    It's not a Hardrock Sport, although I'm hoping that the frames are the same and maybe it's just the componentry that was different between the Sport and the non-Sport versions?

  • I've got an old 2013ish genesis equilibrium with a 10 speed 105 drive train. I need to replace the crankset as its broken - Do I need to get an old 10 speed (105) crankset, or will a more recent 11 speed 105 crankset work? I am seeing conflicting things about compatibility online..

  • https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/1­45087-2/Specialized-1991.pdf

    doesn't give you the seat post size but might be of interest otherwise

  • Probably not perfect but it'll work

  • Is there any way to ID this bolt without accurate measurement/any way to measure the thread? They hold my derailleur hanger on and one of them has disappeared at some point. Assuming I shouldn’t be using the bike with just one in.

    Rough measurements using tape measure have it at 8mm long with an 8mm wide head. 2.5mm hex head.


    1 Attachment

    • FD0B0BB0-8BE5-4480-A25D-CCA869285F2D.jpeg
  • It's standard. Find the metric of the bolt and get another, you can always cut if it's longer. Make sure it's the same head (Countersunk?)
    Or try the LBS but it's always infuriating to be digging weird bolts for non costumers.

  • You need to know the diameter and pitch of the threaded part primarily.

    If you measure the width of the threaded section I guess (judging by the size of your thumb…) it would be around 3 or 4mm. Pitches are generally standard unless it’s something specific and bike parts rarely are that niche when it comes to bolts. Buy some countersunk bolts of the right length and it will very likely be correct. Just compare the existing thread to the new thread, diameter is obvious enough just put the two ends together. For the pitch put the two bolts length ways against each other the teeth of each bolt should mesh perfectly together to show if it’s the correct thread pitch. If not then it won’t fit and don’t try to jam it in as it will damage the part.

  • Thanks both, will roll it down to the LBS and see whether they’ve got one knocking about

  • Compare it to a water bottle boss bolt. It looks about that size.

    Hold them end to end to compare diameter and lay the threads along each other to compare thread pitch, if it's a match then you want m5 x 8mm countersunk bolts.

    Was that 8mm the thread length or total bolt length actually? You want to know the thread length but as @Netakure says, can always trim if too long.

  • Just heard back from the manufacturer and it’s a wheels manufacturing M4x8 bolt, luckily SJS have stock

  • What is the 'best' rear canti hanger? Am I likely to find anything noticably better than the seatclamp mounted ones like this -

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

Actions