Only time I’ve used inserts I think it was a Clarke brand kit. Seemed to work just fine.
I need to fit 70 mm tall 1 1/8th stem on a 1 inch steerer and all the standard stem reducers are 35-40mm so too short. Is it OK to stack 2 or I've seen seatpost shims in 25.4 - 28.6 so can i cut the lip off and use one of them? Is this the obvious thing to do or a really stupid idea? Or do i need to get something made up? Stem and steerer are both steel if that makes any difference.
I would personally go for the seatpost shim idea. I would also use some carbon assembly paste to improve the odds.
Thanks its a Sim Works with a large single bolt i think its rated to 8nm so should get a good grip on it 🤞
I get a click, no sound just a feeling, every fourth revolution with both left and right crank. I’m thinking it has to do with the chain. But can’t see anything.
It’s only noticeable when i push the cranks with some load.
Cracked crank or bb shell pedals not on tight. Axles not tight cassette loose. Qr broke
Tight chain link? Run the chain backward through your fingers (rag optional) at a funky angle, small to small helps the chain not be pulled too tight.
You can usually see it kink as it passes through the jockey wheels as well.
Thanks! Will continue search :-)
I have put a new Ultegra R8050 Di2 groupset bike together.
Initially the whole thing was just dead, no lights, no movement, nothing.
I have left shifter wired to right shifter and right shifter wired to bar end jA. I had the wire from jB to the left shifter when nothing worked. Swapping it to the right shifter made the whole thing come alive.
Now. I have no shifting on the front mech still.
As I shift the rear up and down the cassette, the front moves a little as it should for trim or chainline or whatever so it is connected properly and the system recognises it. So I thought it must be the shifter, unplugged and swapped in a known working left shifter but still nothing. Tried a different wire between left and right shifters, still nothing.
I have it on charge in case it's just that but I thought new batteries ship with a decent charge.
Any ideas? Is it fussy about how it's wired up? I was surprised when it didn't work with the jb wire in the left shifter but fine in the right.
you HAVE to connect it to e-tube software and run a diagnostic/set-up from scratch
Works with the charger?
Right. Plugged it in, updated some firmware but the left shifter isn't being picked up. Again tried a different shifter and a different wire, still nothing
hmm that's strange, normally you can daisy chain elements in the way you want at the front.
in the first diagnostic, does it list the culprit shifter properly ?
In any case you might want to wait for a full charge, as it doesn't charge when e-tube is running
That's what I thought. Apparently not.
Had to rewire it in a specific order and it now works. Left shifter to the jA with a Y wire also connected to jB, short wire jA to right shifter. Works now.
what's jA ?
if one has Y wires lying around then we might continue this chat in the Golf thread
Bar end junction
Not had that before, unless some components are used/setup from previous install and maybe have some mad coding on them?
Recently been doing the charge port in one bar end and the bluetooth module in the other, and not using the Y cable. You have to shave down the little nubs on the bluetooth module but fits nice, range is around 3-4m which is fine by me, means you don't have to look at the bloody thing or try and o-ring it to a stem or seatstay etc.
I think I narrowed it down to the way I had slung it together, I had used all 3 ports on the right shifter but the bottom one is only for sprint or climbing shifter so it wasn't working.
Idk. I plugged it in differently and it worked. Customer happy
The rarely seen 3rd plug. Otherwise all should work regardless of how you put it together
Hi guys, gotten into a slight pickle here. Bought a carbon frame off eBay from a seller assuring me that the port screws on the cable routing housing were merely 'rusty'. Well after cleaning them up with some WD40, I've realised they're not only rust as hell, they're also rounded. Completely. I managed to get 1/4 off, and interestingly, it screws into a steel casing/housing - this leads me to think that drilling them out might be an option? But you need a 2mm hex to get them out, which makes me worried that there won't be left handed drill piece small enough to fit. Anyone had this problem happen to them? If so, what did you do? Any shops in London that could drill this out?
I'd try with a torx bit/socket first. Get the size that is a tight fit and carefully "hammer" it into the bolt head.
Drilling might well damage the frame threads. Avoid.
I agree with the above torx suggestion.
Second option is to use grabits (grab-bits?). Basically conical reverse drill bits, they chomp into the bolt head and grip it, and then when rotated further they start to unscrew the bolt. I have a full set you can come and use with me in N16.
You could always epoxy it back in place if the threads get damaged - the gear cable tension will keep it secure, no?
Stick some duct tape over the bolt head before inserting a hex/torx key. Should give it a little extra purchase.
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