Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • I’ve got a Magura HS33 brake that needs some tlc. Can anyone recommend a good shop I can take it to in London? Or is it not specialised and any lbs will do.

  • It’s not really specialised. Anywhere that can bleed discs should be able to do it.

  • What is the safest and strongest solution for fixing my rear wheel in a horizontal dropout?

    I have an Omnium CXC frame that I'm slowly building up. To get some more clearance, I decided to install chain tugs (without actually tugging, more like acting as a spacer) but now my Mavic QR (163-164 mm axle length) is not long enough.

    Should I get:
    A different QR (thinking about Shimano XT M8000 with 173 mm axle)

    or

    bolt-on skewers? (Omnium also has some: https://omniumcargo.dk/shop/product/qr-a­xles/)

    I think the front wheel should be fine with the Mavic QR

    Thanks!

    Dropout without the QR:

    Dropout with the short QR axle:

  • Closed cam qr / the longer shimano QR you mentioned would be best.

  • Why are these things made of cheese? 50% failure rate on daughters Specialized Hot Rock. She can't squeeze brakes with gloves on (can without) so I need to adjust them inwards.

    2 min job becomes a mission.


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  • Are you rounding the hex interface?
    It's gonna be partly down to the threadlocker that a lot of these have.
    I'd pull it straight out and use a bolt with a head rather than that grub screw. Threadlocker might still be necessary in the long term, then again, there is no long term for little kids bikes, 3 years maximum usually.

  • Are you rounding the hex interface?

    Yes it rounded pretty much immediately, but was already too far in for me to grip & twist out with needle nose pliers or owt else.

    I've tried a 3mm screw extractor to no joy, and my 2mm & 2.5mm metal drill bits are no match for the seemingly indestructible core of this fucker so I can't make a pilot hole to drill it out.

    I hated these when I was doing dr bike stuff.

    I'm going to have to replace the lever which isn't looking easy as the only place with stock is Triton which judging by their reviews means they don't actually have it in stock but will try and find stock somewhere.

    I can cannibalise her old isla bike but that is useful built up as quick spare incase of puncture or other problems with this new one.

    I've wasted a whole afternoon getting nowhere on this and have got a 9yo upset as she can't ride her new bike tomorrow. I did suggest she try the htfu and lose your gloves approach but she is not a fan of cold hands.

    Any other junior sized lever recommends that are in stock anyone?

  • Can you hammer a torx in?

  • The drill & screw extractor attempts have pretty much destroyed it. New lever required.

  • Drill out and retap larger?

  • I've tried thwarted by the

    seemingly indestructible core of this fucker

    I have 2 2.5 & 3.5 (not sure where 3.0 has gone) and nothing is making any progress.

    I could try again but value my time (and mental health) enough to throw some cash at a new lever at this point.


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  • Clockwise or anti?
    I get it and I’ll stop now.

  • Wait until her hands grow.

  • I have found a spare R550 lever, but adjusted right in it isn't as close as the Tektro that I could adjust.

    It might get us through tomorrow / until stock lands and hopefully reassuringly there's little chance of an OTB from grabbing too much front brake.

  • There's nothing special about SRAM mechanical rear derailleurs that makes them different in set-up and tuning than Shimano, is there?

    I've a bike with SRAM Force 1x that is just shifting inconsistently. It feels like there's no spot on the barrel adjuster that gets the shifting just right. If I get shifting toward the spokes right, it will sometimes do 2 shifts in one go when shifting down towards the frame.

    I've always had Shimano until recently, and if this were Shimano I'd suspect a bent derailleur. I'm confused, though, as it used to shift just fine, and I don't recall any knocks to the derailleur since then.

  • Fresh gear cables? Make sure the cable routing is clear of dust/gunk/worn plastic housing

  • Sounds like bent hanger, if not have you got the cable routing through the derailleur right? It's a bit weird, if that's all good check the b adjust, it's not just whack it as close as you can to the cassette on some of the 1x stuff and you may need to push it out further.

  • Good tips. I'll check all of that. Cables aren't new, but equally have done less than 1000 km, so I wouldn't expect need replacing. I could be wrong though! I'll look up some videos for how to check the cable routing through the derailleur, as I'm not sure at all how that should be, and I'll need to know in any case if I replace the inner cable!

  • Looking for a chain watcher type thing for Ultegra 52/36, but none seem to be available for this range.
    This is what I was hoping to get...

    https://www.merlincycles.com/bbb-chainwa­tch-chain-drop-protector-64510.html

  • I use this k-edge one with 105 52/36, seems to be in stock at tredz - https://www.tredz.co.uk/.K-Edge-Pro-Road­-Braze-On-Double-Chain-Catcher_66561.htm­

  • That looks good, thanks.
    Mine is a band on mech, do they do one suitable I couldn't see it, but may just be being thick here!


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  • Ah sorry missed that. Looks like k-edge do (did?) one https://www.sigmasports.com/item/K-Edge/­Road-Clamp-On-Chain-Catcher/3HKK No longer available at sigma but maybe somewhere else has them in stock.

    Maybe this from condor? https://www.condorcycles.com/products/co­ndor-chain-catcher Bit light on product info but looks like it’d do the job!

  • The rear shifting on my SRAM Apex equipped Charge Filter winter bike has always been bobbins straight off the shop floor (it was heavily discounted sale bike) and I always just tolerated it. When I changed derailleur housing I always just cut it to the same size as was installed.

    After the housing just split open at the barrel adjuster (nice!) I’ve actually looked at some videos and pics of how to install SRAM RDs and they all seem to have massive loops of housing and I think I may have spent 9 years replicating an install error straight out the factory.


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  • Want to treat myself to a couple of T / P allen keys, 5mm and 6mm.

    Is Wera my best shout? Or is there another one that folks would particularly rate or suggest?

    Cheers

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

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