Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted on
Page
of 58
  • I am looking into getting a dishing tool because my minoura truing stand isn't that true to get good enough results.
    Is the minoura one at 22 euros any good? I saw the superb one at 35. Or any other recommendations? Cheers!:)
    P.S.: I am in Germany, so will be ordering from one of the giants and or discounters here

  • Flipping the wheel over in the stands works well, but dishing tools are amazingly uncomplicated so I can't imagine needing to spend a lot on them unless you want to colour match them when not in use.

  • Problem with the minoura is that flipping kicks the self centering out of whack. So flipping it twice (back and around) without doing anything to the wheel means that the second time around the wheel is not in the same position as it was previously relative to the truing tool.
    I resorted to flipping and eyeballing in a frame until now but figured a dishing tool would save me having a flipped over frame standing around in the living room and the human eyeball uncertainty factor.
    I errr towards the minoura because it's cheaper, unless anybody here tells me otherwise beforehand

  • 👍 Thanks

  • I'd get the Superb, it has the adjustable feet like the Park one. The Minoura looks pretty limited in what size wheels you'll be able to do with it.

  • Hey all. I was wondering if anyone could help me with an issue I have rebuilding my ellipse rear hub. I've made a post here.

    https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/3688­96/#comment16223206

    Thanks!

  • thanks! a parameter i hadnt considered.

    rose also do some;

    https://www.rosebikes.de/rose-rundlauf-f­b-zentrierlehre-636718?product_shape=Sta­ndard&article_size=Standard


    https://www.rosebikes.de/xtreme-rundlauf­-zentrierlehre-297835?product_shape=Stan­dard&article_size=Standard

    the superb looks like a different branded eXtreme (jebus that brand name) but more expensive

    https://www.cnc-bike.de/superb-1930-zent­rierlehre-p-15770.html

    i err towards the rose because its foldabel and easier to store but works for the same range of wheelsizes. (24" - 29"-Laufräder)

  • I don't know about power but trackies used to run scrub grease from bearings and use a veryb light oil instead. Power might not stay where it's needed, not sure. Someone look into the mirror and summon Tester. :)

  • Fucksake! These fucks will kill someone one day.

    I've broken a KMC chain many years ago but I'm sure it was manufacturing fault (actual link sideplate split in half = SO MUCH POWERZ)

  • Is there such a thing as a 1 and 1/5 steerer? I've a fork and got it thinking it was a straight 1 1/8, but there is the smallest of tapers at the bottom that's takes it from 1.125 inches (1 1/8) to 1. 18 inches. The bearings go on and the fork fits in to the bike I got it for, but theres a small gap that I wouldn't expect to be there.

    Forks are from a Triban RC520 that are advertised as straight 1 1/8 into a croix de fer.

  • Sheldon Brown had the answer. 30mm is the crown race diameter it seems. Not sure how to address the gap so.

  • which circlip pliers or set should i buy ? any recommendations ?

  • There's been a bunch of tapered steerers - I think there were 1.5" but I don't know about 1 1/5

  • Is it an integrated crown race?

  • Similar enough. Took the crown race off the the CdF and removed the one from the fork carefully and hey presto it all fits.

    still a tiny gap there, but that was same on the CdF fork and the bearing cage is not visible that I can see. Fork is far far lighter too.

  • Does anyone make a 1 1/8” threaded to 1 1/8th threadless adapter? Found loads of 1” to 1 1/8”. Thanks in advance for any help

  • I think the way it’s done is with a sleeve that shims the 1” out.
    I’ve got an adapter/shim if you want it?

  • Thanks lad but I’m over in Germany. So I shim the 1 1/8” steerer tube to 1”? Sounds a tad dodgy

  • Aye, but it’s ribbed and designed to flare at the bottom (pic)

  • You shim the internal diameter of the 1 1/8" (OD) steerer to 7/8" / 22.2mm to use a nominal 1" threadless adapter.
    Not the inverse shim wizardry it might seem.

  • Ah wait. So you internally shim the headtube, rather than externally shim the adapter? This is harder than it looks, obviously : p

  • I learn so much here.

  • Thanks for the help guys, still seems a bit dodgy I think I might try and make a 1 1/8” adapter from an old quill stem, then shim the ahead stem

  • Okay, what @Bearlegged is saying (ignore my trollery about internal/external shims, we are saying the same thing) is you shim the headtube and use an easily-found 1” adapter that presents as a 1 1/8” mount for a stem (no shim needed!). These are the most common type. Must be tens of thousands in use every day.

    If you’re modifying an existing 1 1/8” quill, I’d be interested to see how you’re going to resolve the bolt > expanding wedge…

    Good luck anyway!

  • I have an old low end 200gs crankset which is coated in this black plastic. I'm pretty sure this is just cosmetic and I'd like to remove the plastic and polish the metal underneath. Is there an easy way to do this, aside from just scraping the entire thing by hand? Like some product that will dissolve the plastic or something?

    EDIT: Nevermind, they are steel underneath and not aluminium, I should have guessed

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

Actions