Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • Pretty certain that one shifts fine with 40t.

    Depending on what you’re running up front it may not be able to take up all the slack in small-small gear combos, so the lower run of chain will rub the bottom of the cage/cassette when it’s all the way back. Usually harmless.

  • Yeah it seems that it will take a 40T fairly easily, according to various sources. A few videos show it working well.

    I guess there is no real reason it should explode unduly.

  • Having issues with tubed rear tyre - tube got out under bead the other day. I just re-seated tyre (I thought) and tried to ride it and it popped out again within 50 metres. Headed back home but stupidly left tube bulging so the inner just exploded.. have replaced tube and have been v careful to not get it under the bead. Looks ok so far but problem only really appeared after riding it before. However tyre seemed pretty loose on the rim, it’s a Marathon on a Sputnik rim - could any form of tyre wear cause this escaping tube issue? Can the bead stretch? I guess it’s a relatively old tyre, at least 3-4 years old. Few bits of stringy rubber round the bead but no obvious major damage. Rims have just been replaced. Not sure if I just need to be careful during install or shopping for a new tyre.. any thoughts?

  • I run mine 48/32 11/40, works great.

  • You could again with the same tyre, new tube. Inflate it just a little, then push the tyre sideways so you can visually check that the inner tube isn't bulging out. You wanna just see the tyre bead and the rim tape. Then inflate fully, test at low speed.

    But if you were careful like this before the incident then I'd say the tyre has just stretched too much.

  • Good to hear thanks.

    Tiny thing, Shimano website has the chainset at 48/31....

    But yeah thanks for the heads up.

  • I've got praxis cranks, the shimano will work fine too, more chance of small/small not being usable but you shouldn't use it anyway.

  • Has anyone seen a cable guide I could use with this slightly awkward mounting point? The larger hole is about 7mm and non threaded (drain hole I think) the other one is threaded but too offset. I really need a guide with the mounting hole on the side. Yes I need to clean my drivetrain.


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  • Could you glue that little plastic bracket down? Or use 3m tape

  • Yeah I must have tried epoxy before judging from the residue. I was thinking sugru might work better as it's held on dynamo cables pretty well for me before.

  • I have a sram force road shifter that won't clamp down properly. I don't see any signs of the clamp itself being bent, but when I tighten the screw until it doesn't turn anymore there is still play on the shifter. I tried putting a thin washer between shifter body and the round, metal clamp bit but that makes things worse. Any tips?

    Edit: Fixed it, only took a big quest to find the smallest M8 washer I had. Seems to tighten properly now.

  • Hi Guys,

    I have a C-BEAR T47 BB on one of my bikes and I'm struggling to work out what tool I need to remove it. The C-BEAR one seems to be out of stock, are T47s standard, can I pick up any T47 tool to do the job?

    Cheers

  • There's a park tool that has 2 sides, so there's at least two standards, measure the size and number of notches and you might find one that works.

  • If you're anywhere near N16 then you can cycle over to me and we can compare with my Park Tool BB tool - it fits Campagnolo and, with an adapter sleeve, Shimano Hollowtech cups. PM if you like.

  • Thanks I will have a count and see if I can figure it out, why are bikes never simple?

    @Ndeipi sadly not near N16 also I'm pretty sure any tool that fits a Hollowtech BB won't work on a T47 one sadly. Thanks for the offer though


  • So the above hub has been identified as as Ultegra FH 6500

    I need to replace the freehub as I knackered the race trying to disassemble the freehub to service it (the Shimano document says not to attempt this). Annoyingly the play I had in the freehub was likely the result of a missing "Freewheel body washer (#17)
    https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/stora­ge/pdf/en/ev/FH-6500/EV-FH-6500-1679.pdf­

    Googling the Shimano part number gives me this:
    https://www.cyclebasket.com/m9b14s215p81­7/Shimano_32U_9801_Freehub_Body_9_Speed

    Am I totally scuppered trying to replace the freehub? It's a bit annoying as I bought the wheel second hand to use on the turbo, but in the end it needed a bit more work than I'd hoped, and now I'm stuck with a freehub-less wheel that seems destined for the bin.

  • I've got the Enduro Bearings T47 tool which has worked on my T47 BBs. However, as mentioned previously the best thing to do is to count the splines, measure the OD of the BB splined part and buy something to suit.

  • I've just removed the crank to have a try of my existing tools and it looks like my 16 notch Park Tools BBT-9 fits once you take the plastic shimano adapter off. Thanks all, should have just filed around in the first place.

  • My pump chuck (Blackburn something or other) has officially died as it just blows right off the valve and doesn't form a proper seal even when held on.

    I don't want to just throw it in the bin because the tiny rubber gasket is ruined, but Blackburn haven't got any replacement pump heads in stock.

    Has anyone had success using a third party pump head and clamping it on with hose clips like these?

  • Topeak does replacement heads, I used one for my Silca many years ago and it’s been great.

  • We’re always swapping pump heads about at work and generally they are all interchangeable.

    SKS are good as they do spares.

  • Yeah, I just whack on whatever is closest of something broken for another reason.

  • I've fitted two successive Beto heads on a Pedros track pump over the last 5 years. I had to shave the hose down a little to fit inside the Beto barrel clamp. The Betos are OK but I'll try Topeak next after these reccos.

    I got the pump at a jumble for a fiver, the guy didn't tell me the head was dead. It was the same jumble where I bought a 10s quick-link in the packaging that turned out to be >1% worn. Disgusting behaviour. Essex jumbles... I tell ya. Horrific.

  • How was the quicklink worn? I thought most chain wear was roller based, obviously the pins will wear too but didn't think they were the main concern.

  • I have no idea how exactly it was worn. Pins I guess? But when assembled on new chain, with a chain wear indicator across the joined section, I measured significant wear, i.e. ~0.50-0.75%. Moving the tool to a continuous section of new chain then measured no wear, (just to check it wasn't the chain).

    You live and you learn, don't buy split links in jumbles.

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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