Line the hose up with a pick?
Thats assuming you can get a pick into the end of it and getting it inline with the angle of the bore
you want to borrow my internal routing tool? becomes a 1 min job.
The park (assuming park version) routing tool Amey's offering up is good, magnet one end, pull that through with a magnet, barb the other end you push securely into the end of the hose, as long as it's not the poorly finished hole of a diverge fork it's easy.
Thanks peeps. @amey that would be fantastic thanks.
While I'm here, what replacement hose for Sram? I don't fancy spending £40 on the whole kit when I just need the hose.
I have gone aliexpress on for hose, failing that Hope from wiggle next day?
mine is a Park copy from aliexpress
AliX is lyf
Is the internal bore the same? So I can re-use the SRAM threaded barb for the connectamagig at the brifter end
Is the internal bore the same?
Is the internal bore the same?
I'd assume as Hope only sells one hose for both sram and shimano
Trying here as no dice in the mtb thread. Pic of the hose connections of a 2020 rockshox reverb c1 post. Would like to avoid bleeding if possible. Which end (post or remote) do I unscrew so I can route the hose through the seat tube? Watched loads of YT vids but there seems to be unlimited varieties of the reverb and none look exactly like mine.
hi, here are some manuals, maybe for your model too? https://www.sram.com/en/service/models/sp-rvb-s-c1
I'd undo the seat post, but you can go both ways if memory doesn't fail me. May need a bleed after.
Ah, thanks a lot! Don’t know how I didn’t find that. Finally found an exploded view of the correct model and some pointers.
Need some help here and asked a few places.
Argon 18 kryton frame. Bottle cage bolts ok the seat tube are completely seized. The bolt heads are also rounded out and they're those sort of flat/mushroom type so can't grip them with a vice or anything like that.
I've tried ez outs and got nowhere. Pilot hole is always too big or small and can't get the drill to the lower bolt anyway.
Can't cut into the bolt to get a flathed onto it. Trying to now maybe cut the bolt head off and push rivnut into frame but even that's not sttaighword.
Any ideas anyone?
Had this problem recently and ended up hacking two parallel sides off the bolt head to get a spanner on it
Any ideas anyone?
Leaving this technique in case it’s useful to someone in the future.
Cant say if it’ll work for you, but as an idea here’s something I’ve done as a last resort on rounded NDS crank arm pinch bolts, using a dremel with a cutting wheel and some flat needle nose pliers:
1) Locate the exposed threaded part of the bolt visible between the opposing plates of the seat tube collar.
2) Use the dremel to cut the bolt as close as possible to the plate nearest to the head of the bolt. Triple check if you’re not sure because you don’t want to mess this up. This should release all tension on the bolt head and it should pop out.
3) Cut a flat surface onto a side of the remaining threaded bolt. Try to get it as even as possible, and do not take a lot of material off.
4) Use pliers to grip and rotate the bolt enough to allow you to cut a flat surface on the opposite side of the bolt. You might need wd40 to help loosen the bolr.
5) Use the pliers and continue rotating the bolt out towards where the head was, until it eventually comes out entirely.
6) Swear mightily at the bolt and high five the nearest person or pet.
It’s painstaking, it sucks, but it’s worked every gdm time I’ve had to do it.
I've recently purchased a set of wheels with XDR freehub and would like to install a XD cassette on it. This seems straightforward when referring to Sram website. Install 1.85mm first and then cassette as normal
However I'm still getting sideways play in the cassette!
Anybody done this or have any input?
Do you get any play once the wheel is on the bike?
Yes, still play once wheel installed. Even tried a different cassette and still the same
Seems odd but never got that combination before. Add another 1 mm spacer?
In the past I have had some park tool ones but they always get dropped and shatter.
I have been using pro link pro gold lubricant which tends to do a good job of cleaning chains and lubrication.
New MTB coming and am thinking it’s likely to need a conventional chain cleaner. What is the forum approved cleaner?
Remove it and put it deep in any solvent, white spirit, petrol etc
YMMV but the small <1L ultrasonic cleaners I’ve tried haven’t had enough wattage to really clean a chain. Even using warm floor cleaner or dish soap in a bottle in the cleaner twice or thrice, still not as clean as Marcom’s suggestion.
This may be better but it's also a lot more faff than just running the chain cleaner and drying with a rag.
I also used the park tool in the past, was good, would use again.
Afaik manufacturers do not encourage splitting and reusing chain links. The links aren’t intended for multiple openings and closings and the snapping into position gets weaker. When pedalling the chain is in tension helping to pull the link shut, but offroad the chain is slack more often possibly enabling the link to open up unexpectedly.
Is the manufacturer guidance overkill?
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