I used to break cheap 1/8" chains. Not fakes, but cheap.
Could be a duffer then judging by the box design ?
Nah that's got a legit looking logo, i.e. the KMC has a pointy "M" and the "C" opening is angled rather than flat.
Could be a fake chain in a good quality fake box?
I'd double check but from memory Quarq cranks are the ones with the long spindle so should be fine with a BSA frame. I have the non PM force BB30 cranks in a BSA frame myself, still room for a BB and a few spacers
Ohffs . 🤐🤐🤐🤐🤐
Use your words.
The seller won’t measure the spindle for me so probably not worth the risk as I wouldn’t be able to return.
Looking at a new Dub version now, that seems to get over the problem
I had a look. SRAM-Quarq cranks are BB30 and Bb386 compatible. For Bb386 you need a long spindle as it's an 86.5mm shell, exactly what you get with a BSA shell + external cups.
Here you can find some manuals with spacers needed and compatibility between different crank models and BBs
Was there ever a different thread standard for 1" forks?
I bought a fork a few months ago that I believe to be from the 60s. I was just trying it out now on a random frame and I noticed the headset won't thread at all. The threads look perfectly fine and clean. What is happening here?
French fork by any chance?
There were a few standards floating about. French is the only one I've encountered (outside of the essentially interchangeable Italian).
Sheldon, as ever : https://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html
Velo Orange sell a French threaded headset if it is that.
Or it's an old Raleigh thread
Ohffs . 🤐🤐🤐🤐🤐
Not sure if it’s what you intended because people misuse that emoji a lot, but I didn’t appreciate being effectively told “oh for fucks sake zip it/shut up/stfu”. I don’t think it was merited or proportional, especially in an otherwise constructive discussion.
It’s easier to print an M and a C in the correct shape on a box than to fabricate an accurate fake chain. They’ll correct it sooner or later, so relying on the box isn’t a great idea. But hey, you do you.
My apologise if you took it that way no mallace intended , more a reflection of the lengths people will go to bootleg equipment to the detriment of customers who could have a serious accident.
Anyway maybe go for a Kmc el 11 now as its lighter but maybe not so good on a 1x setup.
Thanks, I had no idea. I'm pretty sure it's French now, unlikely to be Raleigh as English bikes weren't really heavily imported down here to Portugal but French bikes definitely were. Luckily I think the steerer is too long for any kind of frame my size anyway so I can probably get away with cutting the threaded part but good to know!
Cheers, seemed out of the blue, I appreciate the response. And yeah bootleggers suck.
New Hope Pro 4 freehub, and engagement seems quite slow and harsh and clunky, and unlike other Hope hubs I've had. Any ideas?
Sticky pawls might be slightly misaligned. Can you pull it off, clean out the grease, re-set and then re-grease?
Deffo needs a clean over a white cloth and take a pic before so you remember which way the pawls and springs go back in. Plus warm the seal as discussed before.
Just fitted a Chris King T47 i24 BB into a 86.5mm BB shell...Will be used with a GRX 2 x 11 crankset...do I need to use the 2.5mm spacer on the drive side?
It's a Dutch thing (I know, because I have a Batavus that weights 40kg and rides like a dream, and which has the Woods valve). One of these adapters will fix your problem: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274726413737?hash=item3ff6f865a9:g:ul4AAOSwKBBgjFGL
See also https://www.dutchbikeshop.co.uk/pump-tyres-dutch-bike
What are the expert tips for feeding a hose out of a lower fork port that is bascially the same diameter as the flipping hose?
I have pushed a bit of the guide stuff into the hose to feed through but if I pull too hard it just separates and there is no space to tape them together. On other bikes I've done there is enough space for tape but not on this one. I'm at my wits' end here!
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