I have a minor question which I would like to ask but did not really want to start a thread just for it so figured an AQA thread in mechanics and fixing could be useful. Mods feel free to delete/merge/close/sticky as you wish.
And my question is can I use a 31.6mm seatpost in a 31.8mm seat tube without having any problems with slipping?
Yes. If it slips put some toothpaste in the frame.
I want to know if this front mech will work with a chorus 10 speed group?
(the type with silver cranks and carbon ergopower shifters).
thanks in advance.
Front derailleurs are pretty obliging, having a wide range of movement and not doing anything that is too sensitive.
The difference in external width between 8v, 9v and 10v chains is minimal and wouldn't require the distance between the derailleur's plates to be reduced.
Unlike rear derailleurs and Ergos, Campag don't mark the front "nine speed" etc, so it's reasonable to assume there's no need to differentiate between them.
So yes, it should work.
The missus has a dutch style town bike. the left side crank arm is loose, when she took it to a bike shop for a service (before i knew her) they said don't ride it until its fixed and they need to get in special tools to fix it! So she brought it home because they made it sound like a big expensive job.
After popping a plastic cap of the crank arm to see where it attaches to the BB, there is a recessed nut, quite snuggley in the hole but loose all the same.
My question is: isn't this just a matter of getting a socket spanner (with thin walls) and tightening up the nut? Can I not just buy/borrow the right socket spanner for a hardware store and tighten this up myself?
It probably is that simple, but there is a high likelihood of the crank being deformed. Being aluminium and softer than the steel axle it has been wobbling on it will have distorted the taper that mates them together, so even if you get it tight it might well come loose again.
You will then need a new crank.
A bike shop without the puller is odd. The puller you will need to remove it when it is tight is one of the commoner tools. I am wondering if something else is up with it.
I'll try the socket spanner so, and give it a good test ride myself. If anythings loose I'll take the cautious approach.
^^The socket panners they sell in a hardware store wouldn't work, walls too thick on the socket part.
We took the bike around the corner to Micycles in Islington and they tightened it all up (plus saddle height) for nowt.
After closer inspection it turns out the bottom bracket is not the right size and was causing everything to come loose and damaging the threads. New BB being fitted.
Micycles is a lovely shop and I would highly recommend them.
I've just been trying to fit a different bottom bracket into my Tom Board frame, but have discovered a problem- it would appear the diameter of the Bottom bracket shell is too wide by a mm or 2- 35mm diameter it would appear, and the new bottom bracket threads won't engage or tighten. The is so loose it wiggled past the threads and is not a bit stuck in the middle, but no hope of fitting the bottom bracket as is at all tight enough in there
I'm looking too run a Campag Chorus 10 speed set up, with takes a square taper bottom bracket. Cannot work out why the shell would be too wide-and if I can resolve this issues at all?
The shell is nervex it seems, so pretty old, but the threads look good so don't think they are worn or anything, (although they could have been re-cut I suppose?)
“Italian” bottom bracket shells are larger diameter than the more common BSA type. Presumably your frame was specced Italian?
You just need the Italian version of the BB if so.
would seem odd on an British Built frame, but maybe that expains the very Italian frame styling of the Seat Stay lug-Tom board made replica frames so it would seemed some one specced a replica of an Italian frame with full Italian detailing!
Aren’t Italian shells a different width?
Edit: yup, Italian shells are 70mm wide.
this is the really odd think. MY bottom bracket shell is only really 65/66mm wide. Look like I'll have to go with Italian bottom bracket though just to get the threads to hold....
Sounds like a bsa shell that's been over enthusiastically faced and chased. Italian threads are different diameter and direction, you won't just be able to pop an italian bb into a bsa shell.
Just checked this. The old Bottom bracket tightens up clockwise on both sides, so that's Italian threaded, yes? I had thought when I took the old BB out I had unscrewed both sides anti clockwise, but assumed I just got in a muddle and remembered wrong as I was told it's a British Built frame-maybe it is is not what it purports to be, just tried a 27.2 seatpost and that doesn't seem to want to fit either...
so that's Italian threaded, yes?
so that's Italian threaded, yes?
If the threads were in good shape then yes.
As you’ve said they are in poor nick and the shell width is pretty out of spec for anything but particularly for Italian, I wouldn’t put it past being a bsa shell that’s had a tap run through it the wrong way.
Actually, had to google it because I wasn’t sure but French thread shells are 68mm with two right hand threads.
Hold on and I’ll see what the actual thread diameter is...
Yup, French thread is 35 x 1mm, bsa is 1.370/1.375” x 24tpi so that’d account for the loose fit.
hm. Will try an Italian first to see if it fits, if not guess I will have to try french. There's always something!
Thanks for the quick response and helpful answers though!
Has anyone else had issues with the SunXCD 3 bolt inner chainrings?
We've tried four different 28T chainrings on two brand new 11/10 speed drivechains and they've all slipped under load across the entire cassette.
Probably wishful thinking, but is this safe to ride?
For context, this was an old Vitus 181 bike I bought cheap and was going to restore without spending any money. I did end up buying the sprays to paint it yellow but after everything was nice and cleaned up and ready to build, this happened. It was literally the first thing I did, press the headset cups in. I'm guessing the bike was probably in an accident before and sustained damage that I couldn't see because as soon as I turn the headset press, the head tube buckled. Really sucks, after the respray and everything...anyway, since this was going to be a cheap beater bike, it makes no sense to buy a new frame so I'll either sell all the parts (which is a huge pain in the ass) or...just use this frame.
Both cups don't hold at all and will slip in easily by hand so I'd have to loctite them in place.
Anybody have any idea if Campag Chorus 10 speed levers will work with vintage single pivot calliper brakes-probably Universal or old Campag? I building up a 70s frame with modern (ish) kit but it is only drilled for nutted brakes not recessed allen key types. I don't really want to drill it, and as it only has relatively shallow brake drops 50mm front and 55/56 rear I having trouble finding modern nutted brakes to fit-they all seem to be too deep a drop
I took an old claud butler 1" fork into a bike shop asking them to face the crown to fit a new tange headset I had. The race on the crown wouldn't go on.
They were a little hesitant to do it suggesting to leave the frame too and they might have a headset that would fit.
Turned out it needed an Italian headset which they fitted, so all good.
They charged me £50 for labour which in a state of shock paid. It wasn't until I left did I think about it more. It doesn't take more than an hour to fit a headset. They didn't even have to take the old headset out. Have I been over charged?
Italian headset is the same as UK (the threads are the same just a slightly different angle) was your Tange a JIS size?
Italian and Iso are the same except Italian fork race is 27mm id to iso 26.4mm.
I've only just learnt this, wish I checked before I took it in haha
But £50 to fit a headset, seems steep.
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