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• #27
.

I stand by my earlier point about getting some compact drops and a shortish adjustable stem so you can work out the length you need.
I don't have any way of showing, but if you look at this photo and then familiarise yourself with other builds you can see that drops with a smaller drop and reach will put the drop section in a similar place, and would also allow you to reach the flats and hoods.
At a 'guess' I would suggest finding a short (c.80mm?) 26.0mm stem and buy some compact drops to fit. Then get some drop leavers. The tektro one are cheap and nice.
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• #28
Oh dont worry i'm listening, i will have a Nitto Technomic 70mm and im looking for second hand bars on the bay as we speak
And there are tecktro levers in my watch list, £15 delivered, bargin, but yes i hope i am on the right track now.
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• #29
Ok so i'm looking at 'shallow' drops, i'm wondering if something like Deda 215's or even on-one midge bar, not sure if aero levers would go on the midge though?
Any thoughts?
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• #30
ask spotter about bars
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• #31
Ok ive got Spotter looking now i hope,
just another thought, i cant help liking the Lauterwasser style but i would like more flat in the middle, is there anything like that?
The closest ive seen are the On One Midge bars.
Pluss i'm only able to fit a front caliper as the rear is not drilled , so having 2 aero levers would be a bit odd although i am thinking about how to fit the rear without drilling.
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• #32
pengy
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• #33
Ok ive got Spotter looking now i hope,
just another thought, i cant help liking the Lauterwasser style but i would like more flat in the middle, is there anything like that?
The closest ive seen are the On One Midge bars.
on one mungo's or salsa woodchippers
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• #34
At a Dr Bike I met a guy who clearly had small man syndrome. He was about 5'7, riding a 58cm carbon race bike. He had a 5cm saddle to bar rise, the saddle was slammed all the way down on his compact geometry frame. He arrived stretched out like superman, but was insistent that this was how he liked to ride.
£5K spent on a bike that was never going to fit, and was probably going to cause him a great deal of pain to ride.
Feck.
I'm a 5'7", and have ridden a 58. Its shite. Gave me massive small man syndrome too. Like when your parents buy a new bike for Xmas, as a kid, and you try to climb on only to realise.....its future proofed size wise.
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• #35
Like when your parents buy a new bike for Xmas, as a kid, and you try to climb on only to realise.....its future proofed size wise.
That happened to me when I was a teenager. My folks bought me a massive Raleigh Amazon MTB that I could barely sit on with the saddle slammed, thinking I'd grow into it and not need another bike for a while. It still didn't fit me when I abandoned the bastard thing in my twenties.
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• #36
Munch. I'm just thinking if you're new to cycling you'll probably gain a lot of flexibility and just get used to riding in a road bike position.
Road bikes do and should stretch you out a lot more than other types of bike.
If you get bullhorns you'll work your way across the 'hoods' as you flexout.
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• #37
All these other mental niche bars are just another ticket to pengsville.
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• #38
spotter bars are awesome
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• #39
All these other mental niche bars are just another ticket to pengsville.
"pengsville" i dont know what this is?
No not new, just have grown a big belly from sitting on my arse behind a PC and driving for work.
So yeah i want to end up with drops, i used to ride bullhorns all the time, but while i'm getting rid if the excess waist i need something more comfy, i also like that old style so the woodchipper bars and yes the spotter bars do look good right now.
In hindsight i would have gone smaller on the frame, but after reading all the garb about sizing a frame i was slightly missled.
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• #40
Pengy is a famous ugly bike. Pengsville is some crap I just made up. Sorry.
The things that are unusual about your current setup are the height of the tops of your bars (very high), the depth of the drops (very deep – like 5cm deeper than most road bars) and the short stem.
I'd have thought starting with a setup closer to 'normal' should be the starting point. Do a few weeks riding and go on from there?
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• #41
Yep fare enough, the bars and stem this lot came with was the pearl 10 and B123aa's, so i suppose this makes what i bought a track setup?
I just want to be comfortable, i dont need to look like im trying for a speed record and i'm not a courier, i was always told the seat and headset should be at the same height on a road bike, im a bit thrown by the seat to bar drop, i always thought that was a track thing.
But that is why i am here baring my soul, i appreciate the input, i wouldnt bother otherwise.
I've also noticed that my spelling is awfull! :)
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• #42
Yep fare enough, the bars and stem this lot came with was the pearl 10 and B123aa's, so i suppose this makes what i bought a track setup?
I just want to be comfortable, i dont need to look like im trying for a speed record and i'm not a courier, i was always told the seat and headset should be at the same height on a road bike, im a bit thrown by the seat to bar drop, i always thought that was a track thing.
But that is why i am here baring my soul, i appreciate the input, i wouldnt bother otherwise.
I've also noticed that my spelling is awfull! :)
It is worth trying a position that feels like a stretch, because it will become comfortable soon enough (as long as it's not too extreme), and it will make you go faster with less effort. You'll soon adapt. But yeah, there's no need for an extreme drop to the bars. When you say headset do you mean stem? Having the top of the stem a few cm below the saddle would probably be a good place to start. If you look at any pictures of road bikes (maybe except tourers) you'll see the bars are lower than the saddle - not as much as track bikes but still plenty.
This is a fairly typical road setup, note that the stem has got plenty of spacers under it, so it could go a lot lower, but it's still below the saddle:

Whereas track bikes tend to be more extreme!

Is your seat high enough? Maybe try raising it a bit, unless your hips are having to rock from side to side to pedal. Because your frame is too big for you if you only have that little seat post sticking out.
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• #43
I've also noticed that my spelling is awfull! :)
Was this on purpose? Your spelling is awful not awfull!
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• #44
I think over all the frame is too big, i have put the seat up a bit but not much.
And no it was not on purpose, i just cant spell,
Is there a definative way to size the right frame?
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• #45
Hey there - I found this the best online frame size calculator:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO
I've been reading this thread with interest, and you're getting some good advice I could have benefitted from - I got a frame that was too big and now it's sat as a made-up bike I never ride, with a hideous stem I bought to try and remedy the situation. I found it didn't work as it made the steering feel very odd.
It was hard for me to concede, but I think it may be useful for you too - to decide whether the the frame really is too big, and then get something else. Good luck with however you decide to proceed - I'm looking forward to seeing how this thread develops.
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• #46
I think over all the frame is too big, i have put the seat up a bit but not much.
And no it was not on purpose, i just cant spell,
Is there a definative way to size the right frame?
Those online calculators may well be great. I was just saying it looked as though the frame was too big because the seatpost was very low into the seat tube, suggesting that the seat tube is a bit long, and the stem is very short and upright, suggesting that the top tube is a bit long. The same way you can tell if a frame looks too small, if there is an enormous amount of seatpost showing and a huge stem.
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• #47
But you are right the seatpost is as high as it can be for my little legs
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• #48
Hey there - I found this the best online frame size calculator:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO
I've been reading this thread with interest, and you're getting some good advice I could have benefitted from - I got a frame that was too big and now it's sat as a made-up bike I never ride, with a hideous stem I bought to try and remedy the situation. I found it didn't work as it made the steering feel very odd.
It was hard for me to concede, but I think it may be useful for you too - to decide whether the the frame really is too big, and then get something else. Good luck with however you decide to proceed - I'm looking forward to seeing how this thread develops.
Also see:
On-line Fitting services:
BioMechanical Cycling v.8
http://www.mediafire.com/?5xnxnyynzih
...and his WW page, with more info is here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51071&sid=c66b95baef28bc3a1c8bbc8e319d185b -
• #49

Thats better i hope, gonna hit the bootsales this weekend and see if i can find myself a saddle, drops and aero levers, if not i'll get some monday.
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• #50
Much better already new saddle and id say itll be a decent city run around
hugo7
munchh
dancing james
dan
spotter
Smallfurry
rodan
miro_o
lemonade
GF
rogan
Judging by the above, I really don't think they're what you need. It's all trial and error though so give them a go if you fancy them.