Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

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  • Sugru can be used neatly to fill the blank holes. It hardens and then can be removed as one piece.

  • Nylon bolts.

  • Sugru! Why didn't I think of that, genius. I have a tonne of it lying around too.
    @chez_jay Equally good suggestion!

    Thanks both.

  • Just leave the holes?

    There is nothing lighter than a hole after all

  • There is nothing lighter than a hole except a really big hole

  • Not a great match, white it’s going to be...


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  • Thanks for the replies @Glws and @LeMesjeu,
    As you guys gave different answers I figured that it doesn't really matter what crank to get.
    I managed to find a rotor crank for 80 euros second hand. I'd say the chainrings are still in good condition. I'll clean up the crank and post some pictures later.
    The only doubt I have about my purchase is that I kept BB30. Bearings are steel, and a BB30 axle is aluminium, this apparently causes galvanic corrosion, causing the aluminium axle to gall. I'll be sure to regularly grease the interface between the bearing and the axle to prevent that.
    If the axle really starts degrading and I start feeling slop in the crank, I'll just buy another one.

  • the problem is not really the interface between bearings and axle, which needs greasing and moves a bit so is unlikely to seize if you use your bike.
    The common reported problem with bb30 is the interface between frame shell and bearings.. where similar small movement can cause creaking. There is varied feedback on the internet about that, some will say no problem, some will say nightmare, and one person's experience might not apply to yours. Threaded adaptors have had good results for many in case of issues.

  • I have used loctite 234 on the bearing and frame interface. Shimano premium grease on axle and bearing interface, bb30 bearing shields and axle splines. Have had zero issues on creak.

    I usually do a big maintenenace run before and after winter, cleaning and regreasing. Replaced bearings after about 15k km but it was all pretty hassle free.

  • Thanks, really happy with it.
    Yes, Cdale called it anthracite, comes close to iceland green irl.
    Shite WIP pic.
    Gave the paint a quick onceover with a clay bar some time after.
    Not what you're after for a lock-up .
    It's a slippery slope leading to brass Honjos I'm afraid.

    Stem on the t700 is 80° SimWorks by Nitto (CR-77).
    Based on 'Ritchey force' Nitto also produced.
    Their UI-80 is quite nice if you're particular about the angle.

    Yes, Canti/V-Brake spacing crept upwards over the years.
    Playing around with the spacers and Thinline pads should do the trick.
    Post a pic of it in CP?

  • Leave it out in the sun for a month... oh wait.

  • Lol re honjos

    Thanks re stem - instantly bought a ritchey force

    Ill post a pic of the canti issue when i have some spare time (increasingly rare these days) as i am about to chop down my red saeco and put it up for sale

    On that note:

    Any nice Caad3-6 saeco/optimo in sz 54/56 for sale? 🤲🏼

  • Some CAAD12 bits. Gone.

  • Yes please i just need to check that’s what I’m after.

  • Any caad10/12/S6 low stack headset bearing covers knocking about?

  • Winter road bike build has started (a bit late)..

  • Awesome colorway

  • Yeah real nice!

    Have you still got your pink(?) one?

  • Looking great already! You gonna go Campag on this?

  • Just in case anyone is in the market for a fun commuter or capable track bike i'm thinking of shifting my 54 Capo as a full build with Omnium's and an Arkane wheelset.

  • @e54 @jono84 Thanks all - yup got the pink one. That now has shallow alu rims (I prefer the look) and is slowly being upgraded to carbon Campag.

    The old parts from the pink one are going on this one. I bought the frame on eBay assuming it was white, and was pleasantly surprised when it turned out to be this metallic pearl creamy colour.

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Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

Posted by Avatar for MaxC @MaxC

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