I thought the tutorial would be handy - for the money saved in labour, people could upgrade to ceramic bearings...
Could anyone please, give me some hints on from where to source replacement axle for a Lambert (Viscount) rear hub with cartridge bearings? (Later I can give axle dimensions, too if needed.)
Any info on compatible hubs would be of interest, as well!
I also had the idea of having the axle re-manufactured by the local turner from titanium, if I had the idea of the exact material grade and I knew a source from where the raw titanium rod could be acquired.
I'm doing this now on a road hub. On both sides, I can only really rest the hub on the flange, which means the spokes bear the impact and are gauging into the wood they sit on. I've been twatting away at the axle (protected by a bit of wood) to no avail. WD40 is my first solution.
Well WD40 worked, plus I replaced the bit of wood that protects the axle with hardboard so the wood wasn't dampening the thwacks as much. All bearings now out. Now to put the new ones in. Hub is this (exploded diagram). So do I just stack everything up including the freehub and start tightening with a QR? The main problem I see is that I'll end up pushing the old bearings onto the axle as well...
OK, the method on the OP, AFAICT, cannot work on hubs like mine above because you end up pushing the old bearings onto the axle at the same time.
So... can anyone lend me a drift? Think this is the one I need: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-bearing-support-bush-tool-pair/rp-prod8032
Well, if anyone needs to borrow the drifts to bash in 6001 bearings...
Axle feels a bit draggy still, I must say. The end caps going on have made it a bit worse even.
Without having one handy to measure - has anyone tried to use a Park Tool BB bearing press to pressfit new freehub bearings? Is the threaded axle on the BB press too big for a DT Swiss freehub body?
I want to swap my DT Swiss 350 freehub bearings but don't want to spend another £50+ on a smaller bearing press.
Shimano QR skewers generate a decent pressing force and should work. Hope XC bearings done.
Fiddly with the small diameter compared to the inner race, but several wraps of tape wrapped around the skewer really helps centralise it. It takes a while due to the small movement each throw of the lever
Ah, fuck, I'm an idiot! I've used skewers before to do bearings on my Powertap wheels!
I didn't even think about leaving the freehub attached to the wheel but since it's only the outer bearing that needs doing so far as I can tell so that would totally work.
Currently trying to swap out the bearings on my SS wheels - can anyone help me identify what this says? After a clean the bearing seems to be FAG 6000 PT F1116, but I can't seem to find any reference to this bearing type online...
@mdcc_tester knows his bearings. I'm normally lost.
I am with @hippy on that one.
This is just a Standard 6000-2RS bearing.
Very much like the majority of Novatec/Joytec singlespeed hubs.
You can go cheap with the plain steel ones - about £1 each in packs of 10.
But I would recommend going for stainless steel ones - about £2 each in packs of 10.
If it is a fancy wheel, you can go for ceramic hybrid (stainless steel outside with ceramic balls) or full ceramic if you are semi-pro and are into marginal gainz:
Thanks both - I assumed they would be standard bearings! And thanks for the brilliant tutorial Vince!
I recommend order bearings made by quality manufacturer such as SKF, FAG or NSK. Rather than unbranded Chinese bearings.
You will be able to find 6002-RS bearings for around £4 on EBay.
I use simplybearings (as linked about) buy SKF normally and order a few at a time since they discount when you order 4+.
Bought a multi pack of SKF bearings - had been expecting them to be much more expensive!
Common sizes are pretty cheap. the freaky BSA30 bearings I used were more like £20 each.
Wish I had found this thread earlier!
However, the below part helped me when I got stuck with a nut, a spinning axle, and no vice
''...if any nut doesn't want to come off on one side, re-fit the opposite side tightly to the frame and then remove it)''
thanks a lot!
i just frigged an axle last weekend by using mole grips on it in that exact situation.
be kind to your axles, kids.
Glad to be of help - I should restart the tutorials with fresh photos now they that they can be saved on the threads and not stored externally.
Thanks for this thread! I followed it and it worked a treat.
Another tip if you have a stuck nut against the hub; just tighten the other nut against a lockring really tight anywhere else on the other side of the axle, and then use that as leverage to loosen the stuck nut. Then just use your cone spanners to loosen the other nut and lockring against each other.
Hi all, this has got to be an stupid question, but for the life of me I can't work out what size bearings I've got. They're cartridge bearings on a Quando hub but they don't seem to have any markings I can see. Having read around I'm guessing they're standard 6000 2rs but any thoughts would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!
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