Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

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  • My front ultegra di2 mech has stopped shifting into the big ring. It moves a bit then goes back as if finding resistance, but also does it when not on the bike. It was a bit picky for a few rides, shifting eventually, then yesterday it stopped altogether. It would let me cross chain though so it ‘thought’ it was in the big ring.

    Looking for a pc to connect the E-TUBE app but any suggestions? Could it have seized from off road/clean/store in basement cycle?

  • As an update, I went out yesterday and it was still stuck in the small ring, but if I shifted down at the back while simultaneously shifting up at the front I could get into the three smallest cogs, overriding the anti cross chain built into di2.

  • I recommend plugging it into a PC and to do a proper diagnosis via the E-tube software !
    It might be that a software update is needed or that the battery is due a change.

  • I'm looking for an internal battery, one of the newer ones, not BTR2
    Anyone got?

  • Normal e-tube let me update everything and showed no issues, but the lbs used the pro version and said the front mech has a fault.

    So - Anyone got a Di2 front mech they want to sell me?

  • EDIT: Stand down, looks like a bent derailleur hanger.

  • Got a new bike with 12s di2 - battery in fsa branded battery holder which understandably fits beautifully in the supplied carbon fsa seatpost.

    Was keen for matching reasons to use the hope carbon seatpost which I already own. While also 27.2mm and circular (by eye will check with calipers) the internal diameter (ID) is a bit smaller (thicker carbon) and the FSA holder 'just' doesn't want to go in.

    Was hoping someone on here might have a recommendation between the alternatives (shimano, ritchy, deda, m-part) as to which might be better for a narrower ID seatpost. Spending £10 a go to find out is not that appealing!

  • Wrap it in bubble wrap and jam it in there, or take a razor blade to the FSA holder

  • I wrapped mine in some inner tube, just enough to hold it snugly but still able to remove it if needed. Has never fallen out.

  • Yeah, the bodge is better than the actual product in this case imo.

  • Ha, thanks for responses so far. The fit with FSA and fsa is so satisfying/good I likely won't get the razor out.

    Unless someone appears with a concrete product recommendation will instead opt for either bodge or buy one at random and prep the razor blade/sandpaper. Presumably worst case is it drops out the bottom and faff to invert/retrieve.

    Quite a step up from current 10s decade old tiagra so nerves are real!

  • I've always had success with the Ritchey one. The rubber's quite soft so it'll fit in a variety of seat posts.

  • Mine is wrapped in foam and electrical tape. It works a charm.

  • This would give me a use for the packaging so scores points for recycling.

  • Yes. We have enough bullshit plastic items on this planet already.

    looks sadly at bag containing 189 different Garmin mounts

  • Looking at this steerer mount, I don't see how you'd tension the headset:

    Got a bottlecage case fitted onto a new MTB build but I'd rather not have it quite so exposed in case the bike gets decked left and the plastic case snaps.

  • I think it’s pushed down below the star nut. You wouldn’t be able to use a normal star nut obviously, instead a removable carbon steerer type bung or something like the Hope head doctor.

  • https://bettershifting.com/component/pro­-fork-steerer-battery-holder/

    There’s a specific top cap expander thingy Pro make to use with it there

  • but you also have to have a stem + top cap that allows an e-tube to exit at the top, ie something like their tharsis

  • Yeah good point about the stem.
    It seems theres two versions, one for normal stems and one for the tharsis stem -


    But how does it work with a normal stem?

    edit - never mind, by this pdf, it looks like it doesn't work with a normal stem?


  • I can't see it happening without a specific stem/cap and the steerer cut precisely to length. You have to have some space between end of steerer and top cap for a cable to sneak out.

    I have the tharsis stem and it is all well made. the headset preload system works fine and the stem grips the steere really well. as it was made for mtb the design appears fine. i wasn't able to use it due to steerer tube being too short but it could be great for a minimal 1x set-up.

    maybe these days with all integrated systems there can be an oversized headtube with a hole in steerer tube. But anyway with wireles aroudn the corner this is all going to be history.

  • can I ask whats the point of this? still needs a cable to come out and enter the frame unless there is a hole in the steerer

  • I can't see it happening without a specific stem/cap and the steerer cut precisely to length


    But anyway with wireles aroudn the corner this is all going to be history

    axs is already here...

  • can I ask whats the point of this?

    It’s pointless.

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Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy