Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

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  • Switches I linked to above arrived this morning. Proper tiny, but still satisfyingly clicky.


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  • Oooh, interesting to see how this goes.

  • Rival AXS could be a real hit for SRAM, pretty well priced and will fly if it opens below RRP

    https://cyclingtips.com/2021/04/sram-riv­al-axs-review/

  • The single sided power meter isn't a bad price either

  • before reading it, sram chain or can I use KMC etc?

  • Sram chain but only £28 now

  • No news at all for me. Still have to use the wank SRAM chain.
    KMC need to get a move on.

    10-30 cassette is good though, hopefully they bring that ratio to the red casettes

  • I hope they just start producing a 'classics' range - 10 speed red pre the lever shape change and 11 speed etap plz

  • It'll be like restomod cars. Someone will buy the designs and a few spare bodies, do it at 10x the orginal price and it wont quite be the same.

  • I hope they just start producing a 'classics' range - 10 speed red

    If you can find your way through the maze of AXS promo shite on SRAM.com, you'll find 10-speed Red components are still listed as current


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  • Does anyone have any faulty/broken di2 cables, including ones with a broken connector? I know that the connectors themselves are in high demand.

    Its interesting to see that noone has tried to make di2 plugs except maybe this guy on ebay selling these for 45 quids.
    But even he warns against them getting wet easily. I feel like once you get the inside right, its just the matter of tolerance + maybe an o ring on the outside. So...anyone has a broken one that I can tear apart? :)

  • A cheap source of Di2 connectors can be an obsolete EW-67A Junction As (for external batteries). I got one for £6 a year or two back, although prices on eBay seem pretty mixed nowadays, probably because a lot of them have gone in the bin.

    Di2 connectors are actually completely standard MCX mini coax connectors used on some portable RF equipment. But Shimano use the female connector for the Di2 plug, which is the opposite of commonly available MCX cables.

  • I have a snapped cable… happy to bung in an envelope for you. Let me know.

  • Thats some great info there, thanks a lot! Ill have a look into it :)

    @yeahdext damn if we had known this 2 days ago! If you dont mind another trip to the post office, that'd be awesome. Paypal/forum donation/beer money etc. of course

    Edit: And on that note, it looks very much like the next gen di2 is going to be equipped with the other kind of di2 cables EW-SD300... Source

  • Ok I’m having a problem with Di2 set up that’s driving me mad. All parts are brand new install including cassette and chain. I’ve followed the Shimano instructions in terms of setting the ‘end screw adjustment’ and then doing micro adjust in the 5th from largest cog. The problem is that in the smallest cog the derailleur still has one shift left and hence when shifted derails the chain off the cassette. Vice versa it won’t shift into the largest cog at the top of the cassette.

    My first thought was hanger alignment so I swapped out the hanger for a new one and re-installed but no dice.

    I can get the chain up onto the largest cog without issue by using the micro-adjust to bring the derailleur too far inboard (so range is not the problem) but then this results in crap shifting across the rest of the cassette.

    Neither the high or low limit screws are touching the tab at either end of the cassette (I.e not preventing the shift into the largest cog).

    I’ve also checked the cassette to see if it was missing a spacer behind it but it’s sram cx1 so doesn’t need one and indeed with one installed the lock ring won’t engage.

    Anything else I’m missing? The whole derailleur seems to be positioned one cog too far towards the right (outside of the cassette).This leaves me wondering if the frame itself is out of alignment?

  • Even if the frame was totally out of alignment the wheel would be in the same axis than the derailleur. Only thing I could think of it's the wheel having the wrong end cap with all the different standards going. Other than that maybe go to a shop and have the derailleur problem tested.

  • Sounds like you may have maxed out on the micro adjust in the outboard direction.

    If not then a simple answer is to plug into etube and reprogramme the rear derailleur. Pretty sure you can still do this with your charging cable.

  • Thanks for the suggestion but I’ve used the wheels with another groupset on the same bike and had no problem shifting with that and haven’t changed the end caps.

  • Thanks will check the micro-adjust position in the app tomorrow.

  • I’ve followed the Shimano instructions in terms of setting the ‘end screw adjustment’ and then doing micro adjust in the 5th from largest cog.

    And the derailleur lines up on the 5 cog (Ish minus any micro adjustments) if you click down from the biggest cog 4 times?

  • My 6870 front mech had the aluminium-actuator-arm-thingy snap on a ride today. Already ordered a replacement but any idea if it's possible to replace it. Seems a shame to toss a functional front mech because a small piece of metal snapped (motor works fine). This isn't my bike but it's the same snap...

  • Find another fucked (in a different way) FD and swap it out?

    Assuming you can unscrew it, you could make another one - metal fab or 3D printing perhaps?

  • When I take it off the bike I'll see if it's easily dismantled or not and how easily a replacement could be made. My "cheap" 2nd hand groupset has now had both mechs replaced....

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Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy

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