FYI capacity if different from max teeth on the rear cog. Capacity is the total range it can cover - this says the wifli rear mech has a capacity of 37, so with a 50/34 you could run an 11-32 but potentially a little bigger. With a 46-34 you could run a 11-36 (with a road link).
Ok great thank you!
Has anyone tried cutting down an FSA seatpost with the Di2 alloy insert in it? I have one and it just fits, but I need to feed the wire in very carefully and feel that I'm at risk of crushing it. I was thinking of cutting it down and just using a rubber bung to hold the battery, but I've got no idea how far in the alloy insert goes, or the internal diameter of the seatpost for that matter.
Those inserts are pressed in or glued at best. Put the insert in a vice and use the seat to turn it loose. Cut the post and reassemble!
Are you speaking from experience? It’s an expensive experiment if I damage the carbon!
Yes I have done it a couple of times with no problems. Moving batteries between different setback posts. The insert is not that long either, just measure it with a spoke elbow catching the lip from the inside. If short enough you could just cut the post above it and replace the holder with a simpler rubber one.
Awesome, that's what I was hoping to hear - thanks.
Anyone got a 6mm Di2 grommet going spare?
I’m still wondering why the software update dongle was included in the box for a sram etap. I’ve been running to 3 years now with no update and with the new product releases it seems there never will be one.
A complete set is less than a fiver at Vanillabikes if you get no luck. Postage on top of course.
Does anyone need a Di2 inline 2 port connector? I replaced the one that came on my Tarmac with a wireless unit so it's just sitting in a box. £5 or an interesting pale ale and it's yours.
Does anyone know if the plastic shift buttons/paddles are the same between Shimano 9170/9050/8050/8070?
I’m looking at gutting a non hydro shifter to salvage a hydro one. They look the same in the manuals.
I’ve got some grommets in the garage. You’ll have a bit of a wait for me to get home tho as I’m out of the country until the middle of next week. Message me your address if you don’t get a better offer.
Economies of scale when producing stuff like this means they're almost certainly using the same items where they can.
Thought as much. Trawling eBay for parts now
This little hack was very helpful in the mountains last summer. Had a crashed TT-shifter in the parts bin, removed all the fuzz and just taped it on with that flexy sticky tape used for finishing bar tape. Not beautiful but works great and maybe even less ugly than the R600 available at the time!
I kept the dead TT shifter from the car crash because I assumed something like this was possible. Something to try one day.
My Di2 appears to be completely flat today. It was fine on the ride into work (only took the nice bike as was doing some laps post work). However, it now doesn't shift and no lights come on at all in the junction box.
Is the battery just flat or something more sinister? I thought I'd get some sort of warning that the charge was running out. It was absolutely fine on the ride in this morning.
Should flash red. And front derailleur will stop working long before rear.
So sounds like something is up. Battery or shifters disconnected etc.
Yeah that's what I thought. Weird as it has literally just been sat next to my desk this morning and it was fine then...
@rpm unplugged it
It started working on the ride home and was then fine over 24 miles. Think it must be a dodgy connection with the battery for me to get no lights at all. Frustrating as that's the most difficult connection to get to on my Canyon.
Is this still available? Exactly what I need. Could you send me a PM if it is?
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