Repairing Carbon Fibre - Carbon Damage & Repair

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  • Was there not a small hole left in the carbon where the rivet went through?

    Here is a pic of mine. Was yours similar?

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  • Similar enough. Mine was the RD cable stop on the chainstay. Removing the rivets did leave two holes. I just filled the holes with two black headed pop rivets of a suitable size.

  • Good to know, thanks.

  • I have a carbon railed Romin saddle, previous edition, it’s making a very loud creaking/ cracking type noise.
    It appears to be coming from where the rail meets the saddle, I’m thinking it’s come loose but still housed in the port.
    Might it be salvageable if so how?

  • Inject a bit of epoxy in there? Then plug any gaps with Sugru?

  • I guess. Where is the best place to get a very small quantity of epoxy?

  • Screw fix, toolstation, B&Q, Amazon.
    Not the best value for money for the quantity, but something like this:

    Gorilla Glue Gorilla 25ml Epoxy­ef=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N.U.Eb6ZERAQM

  • Does anyone know if it would be worth fixing this Zipp 440? 1 small crack near the valve hole, as pictured

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  • Probably not mainly because how close it is to the braking surface. Once you factor in the cost of repair you’re probably better getting a new wheelset.

  • Thanks man. I’ll have a look around and see if I can get a quote but it is likely scrap

  • Damn okay. Looks like I need a new rim then... in 18h ffs

  • I had a 303 fail in in a similar fashion, Zipp was kind enough to replace the wheel under warranty. Might be worth contacting them.

  • Spotted this on my front wheel. Tiny mark, but is it anything to worry about?

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  • Doesn't look like much. Coat the immediate area with super glue and pray it doesn't propagate.

  • Looks like nothing more than a stone chip

  • The little chip wouldn't be anything to worry about. I'd be more concerned about the scoring beneath the brake track around it. Have the pads been hitting the rim below the brake track?

  • Possibly, I’ve always felt like these rims have much narrower tracks than the alloys that’s I’m used to. And you’ve just made me notice that the damn pads have been in the wrong way round for a couple of months!

  • In fact that rim has a slight notch to it between the brake track and the body of the rim. Can’t be more than 0.5mm. Is it time for a new rim? These have done 5,000 miles

  • If the brakes aren't pulsing it's probably good for many miles to come. The thing that kills carbon clincher rims IME is cooking the brake track. Structurally they're usually pretty over-engineered if you take heat out of the equation.

  • Not pulsing when braking but occasionally there’s a bit of rub when putting power through and climbing. I’ve always assumed they are very slightly out of true

  • That could just be the combination of a stiff rim and a low spoke count. And awesome powah, of course. If it's not pulsing under braking, it should be fine. The carbon wheels I was riding today have epic pulsing on the front wheel - it's like the ABS kicking in on a car braking system. Cooked the front rim on Sa Calobra. They're 'flat lands only' wheels now.

  • The second photo makes it look like the brake track is separating from the 'deep section'. Is that just a dodgy pic?

  • I think that’s a dodgy photo of that side. On the other side of the same rim there’s a tiny lip there if you run a finger from brake track to the deep section - the brake track feels ever so slightly lower. I assume it’s a manufacturing thing.

    I might get my LBS to have a look to make sure, exploding front wheel does not sound good

  • This seems as good a place as any to ask.

    I home repaired the crack on the cursedexploro™ and it's held up fine.


    I suspect it cracked in the first place because one of the previous owners has way overtightened the clamp. And they have done this because the post slips.
    I believe this to be a manufacturing fault with the frame but being the 3rd at least owner of a now home repaired frame, there's no chance of warrantying it.

    It uses an annoying wedge to provide force on the seatpost, pushing it back against the flat back on the seat tube creating enough friction that it doesn't move. In theory. Except it does move, bit by bit, with the clamp still way too tight and my winter weight of somewhere around 66kg on the saddle. Can't get more than 5km without the seatpost being an inch lower. I've caked the post in carbon grip paste which absolutely helps but does not solve.
    I think the problem is that the surface within the top tube that the wedge presses up against to push a force back against the post, is set too far forward and therefore the wedge is bottoming out on itself before providing enough force against the seatpost but I can't test this.
    I tried using a square washer behind the whole clamp just to push it back a bit and the post held in place longer, for about 20km but then the inevitable slipping happened.

    So. Suggestions for how I can stop the post slipping? It is not supported by the sides of the seat tube inside, the post can be rocked side to side when it's clamped tight (obviously this shouldn't be happening either)
    I'm not holding out much hope of fixing the mechanism so I'm thinking of other ways.
    The post isn't round or I'd put a clamp on it where it enters the frame.

    I have some carbon and epoxy

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Repairing Carbon Fibre - Carbon Damage & Repair

Posted by Avatar for iscuits @iscuits