Got a '73 messina half chromed with dark red flam, in a pretty bad way.
Still building the thing and not yet been ridden, so I'm not up for spending £200 on a respray (yet).
Got a vile of freshly mixed up flam red from Bobs about a month ago ready to patch up the numerous (freaking dozens) of scratch's, scrapes and flaking paint, in some vein attempt to make it look less scruffy.
1) flam touch up does not go straight onto ... bare metal // chromed metal. there should actually be a base coat (self etching primer?) and then a flat silver coat between them. I did not do this and it looks borderline horrific
2) flam touch up requires baking off, as its essentially just enamel paint. Guy @ bobs suggested keeping it on a radiator for a number of days. Nope. Even on the heatsink rad (on 24/7 as its connected to aga) weeks later the paint is soft, chewy and comes off in your hands.
peel all the crap touch up paint off. Using car 'can go on rust' style of primer (in silver, killing all those birds here) dabbing on in the right places, then bake off between wood burner and air space (6-8" off the sidewall of the thing) overnight. then the next day enamel it up ontop of the primed areas then bake off for a few days against the stove.
Will this work? Anyone know how hot a proper paint oven would actually get? How much damage will this do to existing decals and lug lining, will it melt off? will it burn? Will the stove be hot enough, or will it be too hot (potential melter).
I know most people will just say 'Respray>>>>>>>>' and thats fine, if your gonna give me £200 to do that ;)
Right now just looking for a suitably half baked bodge to keep the weather out until it can be resprayed.
doesnt' look so bad under this lighting, but in daylight, there is almost more holes & imperfections than there is actual paint.
here you can sort of see the chain rash on the stays. originally the stays were only half painted and half bare, but some point in life they went back to bobs for a quick spray job to make it trendy for the 80's :/ And its mostly flaked off. thinking of just peeling/ scraping/ nitromors the back end back to chrome, forks as well.
EDIT - after a bit of googling, bikes were never enamelled with 'real' enamel - the kind that requires baking at over 600 degrees. I'm still not sure what temperature it should be baked at - but if the lacquer over the decals is also 'enamel' then the temperature would have to be quite low to avoid destroying the decals. OR perhaps the lacquer is a normal 'wet' finish like 2-pack acrylic or cellulose.
Do a test-bake on something else first to see if it works. Or phone Bob Jackson again.
get it resprayed at armourtex for around £60
stress + time wasted in research + might ruin frame + source materials + delivery/shopping + hassle
£60 to powdercoat it + decals = job done! no sleep lost
^ You can't get metallic or pearlescent powdercoat ('sparkle lacquer' doesn't compare), BJ decals are expensive, the BJ decals need lacquering over them otherwise they'll wear/flake off, the lug-lining would need re-doing, and you'd also lose the chrome on the forks/rear.
chrome would just be masked off during the process.
i would of thought you could get decals for under £20 (?)
just think doing it yourself could be more hassle then its worth and getting it professionally done, means value of the frame is not lost.
Most sets of decals are around £30 from H Lloyd, but like I said, they'd be destroyed pretty quickly if they weren't cleared over. Armourtex lacquer needs baking which will melt the decals, so that's out of the question. Most professional painters won't clearcoat over powdercoat because it doesn't adhere very well. Spray cans will chip off within six months. And you'll still end up with a solid colour, rather than the pearlescent finish it currently has.
You think powdercoating a Bob Jackson won't affect it's value?
Who's this H Lloyd character? I need some colour Benotto decals so I can rep ray my frame set.
get mario vaz to touch it up perhaps?
don't powder coat it!
Don't worry, its not getting powder coated. If I wanted frame done with powder I could wangle it for free locally.
its £125 for BJ's to do it in flam with lining + decals then £40 postage + vat on the lot I think.
It will get done properly eventually but unlikely this year. At the rate the build is going I doubt I'll be riding it this summer now. Main thing is cranks, after gen2 shimano 600 arabesque, not exactly rare but without living on the internet 24/7 hitting f5 they just aren't happening. Could have probably made a copy of the design for the cnc machine and whacked 10pair out in the time!
last night got the primer on and left it infront of aga to cure. Gone rock hard and no damage to rest of frame.
Will get the scabs touched up tommorrow and leave it next to stove on an evening, will sit in the room with it so I can keep an eye on it (also check for burnt paint smell etc).
The EASIEST way to make it look tidy would be to mask the good paint off (main triangle + upper stays) then nitro the rest (rear + forks) of it back to chrome, i.e. how it should be. As those areas are flaking like mad.
BJ flam does not like chrome.
Somewhere I read that ..
powder coat > block colour > metalic > flam
in order of hardness/ durability.
alright, so some feedback.
Ran the stove @ 60% of its total output (measured by flue gauge) for 6hrs +
and most of the touched up spots are cured, but not all.
I'd say the frame sat between the air gap around back of stove experienced about 120-160C
Running at 90% it would probably reach about 200C round the back of there.
...touch it up with clear nail varnish (wire wool any metal that's already stained first) until you've built more walls, to pay for sending it back to Leeds.
Lovely bike. I wish my Bob had those older style decals.
cheers, on the brake & stay bridges I wire woolled them, then gave them a coat of the stuff, just to see what happened.
Came out well, but just showed just how much the paint has faded since it was made, compared to fresh paint (dark ruby red) its almost pink!
will defo get it done properly, one day. right now I just want to get the build finished and ride the damn thing.
T-Cut might remove the fading on the original paint - if it's the lacquer that has gone milky it should help, but if the paint under the lacquer has faded due to UV (depending on which paint combo they used) it won't do anything. Test it under the the downtube or something. Most people who own a car have a bottle of T-Cut or similar paint restorer in the shed that you could borrow.
Also be careful not to rub all the paint off on raised bits like the edges of the lugs.
The lacquer has begun to orange peel, was when I got it, socutting the paint would only emphasize it in this case.
When its done it will get plenty of bike lust spilled all over it. Pedros make it, essentially a silicon protectivee coat stuff.
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