Forgot I also fitted rear sprocket and gear selector 'cassette'/ cable hanger on rear hub, plus cut and fitted chain.
Chain runs nicely with no tight spots, axles about half way along dropouts and chainline is good at about 42mm both ends. With the 103mm BB and Spa Cycles TD2 double chainset the chainring is on the outside and the cranks are passing the chainstays at about 4mm clearance, so Q Factor is approaching the minimum you can get on a Pomp.
I used the anti-rotation washers for vertical dropouts which angles the cable hanger/end stop on the cassette upwards, so the cable will be running along the top tube and down the back of the seat stay, which was my intention from the start as this will hopefully keep the weather out better than running it down the down tube and along the chainstay.
I had a Nexus 8 speed hub bike for some years and the only real issue was with the cable getting muck and water in (which froze a couple of times in 2010 leaving me stuck with a single speed stuck in a high gear). In winter I had to regularly flush the cr@p out of the cable outer with a motorcycle cable oiler and still had to change the full cable yearly to avoid failure.
The Alfine 11 cable does have an extended bellows arrangement at the cable outer end, which ought to help keep muck and water out with usual arrangement of the cable running along the chainstay, but I have heard that this is easily damaged and can get caught up in the selector quadrant and disrupt shifting, so I may not even fit it.
Tyre clearance with the 32mm Vittoria Hypers* (which measure 33m wide on a 17mm internal width rim) appears just about adequate to fit the mudguard at the rear at the current axle position and fine at the front, plus the cable of the 90mm v-brake at the front has plenty of height over the tyre.
I run the same brake arrangement on my tourer: a 90mm Shimano v-brake up front (Tiagra on the tourer, with 37mm tyres and mudguard) and low profile LX canti on the rear. The (midi?) v brake works well and is plenty powerful as a front brake, the rear canti is less powerful, but still enough to lock the rear if used in anger as weight transference does not give much grip at the back in any case, plus the canti works better with a rack on a smallish frame.
*superb tyre BTW,- 120TPI, light weight, slick, folding tyre with large volume, high comfort and very low rolling resistance, basically a large volume road racing tyre and cheap from Planet X. Not too good for serious off-roading of course, but fine for gentle ambling along gravel track etc.
Well it certainly has taken me a while to get started, most of the parts were bought last spring/summer but I have had a lot of other stuff going on including sorting out a couple of ladies 3-speed bikes for my daughter and step daughter, who are both at uni and asked me to do this for them.
One was a 1980s Raleigh bought for £8 which needed a fair bit of work including replacing the steel rims with alloy, the other one was a tidy 1990s Dawes bought for £85 that had alloy rims already- ironically the Raleigh cost more in total by the end than the Dawes, which is the better bike anyway.
However with those done I started this project on the Bank Holiday last Tuesday so progress not too slow once I actually started.
Created separate thread for my Pomp Alfine 11 build in 'Current Projects' so I don't hog this thread too much more than I have already...
I have a spare Sram Omnium crankset and I want to build a bike around it (singlespeed for now, fixie later). I know, usually you build a bike around a frame, not around a crankset :) Anyway... I picked the OnOne Pompino as the frame for the build, as it's cheap and versatile. Does it fit the Omnium? Is the Omnium an overkill for such frame?
Google images says GO!
@Thuekr I did a Google search before posting the message, but I don't trust it much, people do weird shit with their frames: they use spacers, make dents, ... I want to put an Omnium on a Pompino as they are, without alterations.
Chatting to a guy on a either a newly built or freshly washed fixed pomp (v nice build btw) and he mentioned that half the staff of Planet X got sacked just the other day and wondered if I thought PX would still be around next year.
edit: shit this is old news apparently
I just broke my second Alfine crank by stripping the splines on the axle. What are my options for another crank? I really like the bash from the alfine crank. Does any Shimano road cranks have a steal insert on the splines that make it stronger?
Hollowtech ii I'm assuming ... how / when did they strip?
@youramericanlover funnily enough I ordered some stuff from PX yesterday (for the Pomp) and probably no more than half an hour later came across some Lufgus grievances saying they haven't received orders ...
Has anybody bought anything recently without issue?
In other news ... Rack hack is mud-game.
Topeak rear rack chopped to fit with some bontrager hardware I had to hand ... Test fitting now ...
Also found a camera bag I never finished making. Will make perfect basis for decaleur hack (Topeak quicktrack fitting on order)
I just realized that I have a 2,5 mm inside the BB cup on the drive side. That should not be there?
Update ... Rack fits ... Will see if it holds together before I do final cuts on new canti struts.
Nobody mention the naughty nose job .. Tight clearances excuse all.
I would give up and go square taper, only a matter of time before your BB wears out anyway...
Yup, couple of v. recent orders with no drama!
The service at planet x used to be shocking. I've bought a few bits from there recently and the service has been the best I've had. There was a minor mistake on the order which they responded to quickly and professionally. It's like they've brought someone in to sort out the customer service. Night and day...
Well I have no real complaints with PX, I think one slow delivery a while back, but have sent stuff back I changed my mind about with no problem and the chip on the Pomp fork leg was dealt with appropriately- offered discount or to exchange whole frameset.
How'd you manage? No grease?
Since I had the spacer between the BB cup and the frame the splines on the crank axle did not engage enough and stripped.
The panic of haveing to ride the subway to work made me order a new Alfine straight away. I was however able to remount the old crank once I removed the BB spacer and the bike held up for the commute today.
The only Hollowtech 2 crank I have had was a road triple, which was fine apart from a voracious appetite for BB bearings- life span of those was around 3000 miles hence I went back to square taper. Anyway I cannot see how that left crank could have done anything else but strip if it was only pushed that far on to the splines, the one I had went fully home, a bit of preload set with the threaded endcap, then there was the little metal stopper plate that that clipped around the crank clamping bolts and into the concentric groove in the splines of the axle before you torque the bolts. Why was your LH crank that far outboard? I am guessing to get the chainline correct with spacers between RH crank and BB, but this was always a disaster waiting to happen: seems like something wrong between BB shell width, axle length and spacing etc...
the splines on the crank axle did not engage enough
the splines on the crank axle did not engage enough
You're not kidding.
IIRC the splines don't go all the way through the arm, you must have fractions of a millimetre engaged.
As stated, I put a 2,5 mm spacer between the drive side BB cup and the frame. That was just a fuckup and it gave 2,5 mm less engagement than there should have been. The spacer came from that I´m so used to puting Shimano MTB cranks on MTBs with 73 mm frames.
Still not my worst fuckup to date. Both the chainring and the BB was done on the old crank.
OK well have a look here before you fit the new one: http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Alfine/FC-S500/SI_1HD0A_En_v1_m56577569830604038.pdf
So that is no spacers with single chainguard version (chain line 42.7mm), one spacer, presumably supplied with crankset, fitted on non drive side with double chainguard version (chain line 49.2mm)...
Anyway now you know and good luck with the BB bearings, Ultegra/Dura Ace ones were the best IME, and not much more £s than the lower spec ones.
Yeah, the stripped crank actually works with the spacer removed since it has 2,5 mm new engagement :D It will however probably not live that long...
I agreee that the Shimano BBs are crapp. On my trail bikes I use Hope BB. They are really good, but aslo really expensive. For the commuter i just ordered a überbikecomponents BB. It seems to be a copy of the Hope, with the seam external seal for less than half the price of the Hope BB.
Frame bag arrived today. Plan emerging for rack bag. Anyone got a pop riveter? Mines busted.
Also bar extensions are here. Poor man's h-bars, engage!
Is that an inner tube as a bar grip?
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London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of predominantly fixed gear and single-speed cyclists in and around London, UK.