Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • Actually it's the correct length, so small drill bit and good to go? Shimano make out like you just connect and pull the lever and all is well.

  • The seal isn't particularly strong so I'd imagine that fluid would burst it when you pull the lever, never tried though.

  • Ta for the advice, think I'll pop the seal and go for it. Wil update with the outcome.

  • In the OEM factories they don't break the seal before installing the lever, that's why on your first brake bleed you'll often see little white bits floating in the fluid.

  • Ah okay, so just assemble and tighten up, press the lever and all good đź‘Ť haven't got spare olive and brass thing plus the tool to install and bleed kit etc and just want to be sure I can install without all that as I don't want my bike out of action while waiting for stuff if it doesn't work.

  • Personally, I use a pick or knife to take out the seal, if you're careful and do it just before installing the lever, then you won't lose any fluid.

  • I just let the seal get punctured during fitting - the needle just pushes through it. Looked like some kind of hard wax. Doing anything with the seal increases the risk needing a bleed.

  • Ultegra r8000 series calipers. One piston seems not to be moving. Anything I can do to sort it?

  • Yeah, you basically hold one piston in while pressing the lever to advance the stuck one and clean it. (Be careful, you don’t want the piston to pop out completely!)
    This park took video explains it well­o­ht-brake-caliper-piston-service-assessme­nt-2014.html

  • For my current post-mount gravel bike the last few years I've been running a set of GRX levers hooked up to some M7100 post-mount calipers with BH90 hoses.

    Moving soon to a flat-mount frameset I'm trying to decide whether I should get a set of GRX flat-mount calipers or possibly something else such as the flat-mount version of the M7100 brakes.

    Seems to me the MTB brakesets have much cheaper brake pads and as I've been quite happy so far with the M7100 brakes.

    So, am I missing some strong reason to go with the road/gravel standard brakes and pads?

  • Flat mount ones all use the same pads K without fins or L with in shimano codes, they're essentially the same brakes across road/MTB with the usual small material/finishing difference as you pay more money.

  • I'll get MTB as the bloody road pad retainer pins are shite.

  • Ah right, that does make sense that they do actually use the same pads. I guess I'll just go with whatever's in stock and reasonably priced.

  • Folks can anyone ID what brake pads I need for these brakes? Front is Shimano Deore, unsure what the back is, might be the same, on a 2018 Urban Arrow. Hydro brakes. Ta

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  • There's a code on the other side of the caliper.

    Front: should be M6000 IIRC.

    Either G05A-RX Resin (w/o fin) or any G coded pads or J05A-RF Resin (w/ fin) or any J coded pads.

    Rear: MT500

    B05S-RX Resin (w/o fin)

    Do also check the rotor if it is resin only before switching to sintered.

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer