Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • Not enough, not enough, not enough.. *crack* too much

  • Get a torque wrench

  • With some Shimano shifter models there's a gap, with some there isn't.

    Best to take @PhilDAS 's advice.

  • Have a torque wrench, but how do I use if for a nut like this?

  • So a gap is ok? On my 10cm spanner there is already resistance where I have to give it a little more nudge to move it.

  • how do I use if for a nut like this

    You'd need a crow's foot

  • What tester said

  • Ufff, stocked at Toolstation/Screwfix and the like? Or does anyone local-ish to SE1 have one I can borrow

  • So a gap is ok?

    With some Shimano shifter models it is, with some it isn’t. Don’t know which models, or which one you have. What does the manual say?

  • Olive not sitting flush?

  • Also, some Shimano shifters come with an olive preinstalled, you definitely want to make sure that you're not trying to stuff another in there. I've seen that as a common way to crack a shifter in this area.

  • Defo no olive inside. I triple checked that as I was paranoid.
    These are grx 600 shifters. Held the hose in while I wound in the bolt initial by hand till I could any more (about 3mm out from flush) then turned with spanner till I went beyond finger tight and had the start pushing to get it in further. Absent of a crows foot I don't know what to do to make sure I'm not overcranking it

  • All the ones I've installed with those nuts have just sat flush and not cracked, including various GRX600, never used that delightful looking orange hose though so dunno if it could interfere with what 5Nm of torque would be if the spec is a little off shimanos.

  • It's pretty basic cables from uberbike, make sure I paired with the correct barbs and have used on other bikes without issue, but that was all with the older style shifters/nuts.
    Currently the game is less than a mm from flush, I daren't go further as I don't want to blow the £££ I had to spend to replace the 105 that cracked on me.
    Will I have a problem with it not being flush or is this fine and I should get on with the joys of bleeding the system?

  • I'd imagine it'll be fine, bleed it and see, a leak isn't as bad or hard to remedy as a crack.

  • My Ultegra shifters have a small gap as well when tightened to 5Nm and don't leak anywhere.
    I use luggage scale hanged on the end of spanner as a makeshift torque wrench. It's a bit fiddly, but it works OK.

  • Does a Shimano caliper come with the hose attached?

    Like this one: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra­-r8070-flat-mount-disc-brake-caliper-rea­r

  • Can I just use a paperclip instead of this monstrosity supplied with hope rx4? It's a fucker to get in / off. Why is there not an industry consensus on pad retention? Split pins being best right?


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  • Split pins being best right?

    Not really needed, there's not enough force trying to get the retaining clip to fall out to justify a split pin. R-clips are fine and can be installed and removed without tools. The clip is only the belt to the braces of the retaining pin thread, and I've never even had the thread walk out and get stopped by the clip.

  • Just throw it away in a random direction to get the moment out of the way of when it pings off in a random direction to never be seen again.

  • Paperclip no good? Im sure the pin will become one with the caliper eventually and I won't require any sort of fail safe.

  • I've never used them on my E4s and I'm still alive

  • Just don't bother, they're back up for something that never happens, or figure out how to use it, once you get the hang of them they're pretty easy, like one of those shitty Xmas cracker puzzles.

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer

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