Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • I seek council in the lfgss fountain of knowledge...
    Are Sram HRR hydraulic rim brake levers compatible with disc calipers? If you had a set of the HRR levers you could just attach them to hydraulic disc calipers instead?
    I think the levers were one and the same and it was just the caliper that changed but I cant find conclusive proof online.

  • I think the levers were one and the same and it was just the caliper that changed but I cant find conclusive proof online

    SRAM Spare Parts Catalogue is usually where you have to go, since their other documentation is patchy at best. There's only one master cylinder piston for the whole range of road hydraulic levers, so any lever will work with any brake.


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  • Exactly what I was after, thanks.

  • I'd like recommendations on, disc brakes...I currently have Paul Klamper post mount brakes, but my new frame is flat mount.

    I'd like to sell the Klampers and use the money to buy flat mounts of some sort.

    Can someone please recommend flat mount cable calipers that:
    a) Brake as well as the Paul's
    b) Look as good as the Paul's
    c) Cost up to the price of the secondhand Paul brakes

    Thanks in advance!

  • flat mount cable calipers that:

    a) Brake as well as the Paul's
    b) Look as good as the Paul's
    c) Cost up to the price of the secondhand Paul brakes

    I'm guessing that's going to be a case of pick any two from three. The easy one is a&b by buying flat-mount Paul's and suck up the expense.

  • Sell the Paul's, buy Shimano hydraulics, spend the good looking money on clothes or surgery.

  • I know it’s not what you want to hear since it means buying new shifters too, but snottyotter is absolutely right.
    You’ll eventually get shimano hydro shifters and calipers on the forum or ebay for not much more than those Juin calipers. Braking performance will at least double.
    There should be a law against cable actuated disc brakes.

  • I'm all for cable disc brakes... both my bb7s and Klampers had enough power to throw you over the bars.

  • I'm all for cable disc brakes

    Burn the heretic!

    Uch, if they do the job for you then fair enough.
    But hydro brakes will throw you over the bars triple the distance :)

  • hydro brakes will throw you over the bars triple the distance

    Not true. One of the benefits of hydraulic is that you get a choice of how far you're thrown. The maximum is the same, but it's not all-or-nothing 😉

  • This is true, in the all-or-nothing scale, I tend to set mine two baw hairs from all. Three if it’s wet out.

  • just get a pm to fm adapter?

  • Got one fitted - looks like I'm running a Lauf fork (spewface)

  • I’m trying to fit two piece rotors but they are thicker than the old rotors and now there isn’t enough adjustment for the outboard pad to clear the rear rotor.

    Do thinner post/IS adaptors exist? The existing one is 11mm, I think 10mm should give enough clearance.

  • Problem solved - trim router to the rescue


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  • Best thing I’ve seen for a while. Outstanding.

  • Thanks

    It was very satisfying and significantly more accurate than I could have managed with a hand file. Having the threaded holes to hold down the adapter during machining made it pretty straightforward for a living room machine shop job.

  • (probably been answered a hundred times already, but here it goes)

    New Shimano XT 4 pots.
    Fitted and bled.
    Rear is fine, but the front has a lot of lever action, does slow the bike but can't lock the front end up.
    I've bled, rebled, tried to just "top it up" with no luck.
    All new rotors, pads, calipers, the works.

    Using an epic solution bleed kit, if that makes a difference.

    Any secret tips to getting a bitier front brake?

  • New Shimano XT 4 pots

    Ah, everything which is old shall become new again. Probably not helpful, but I just fixed a long lever on my 4-pot XT M755 with a top up, the key being to leave the caliper on the floor so the air comes out at the master cylinder, and leave the top off the reservoir while doing it. Not sure how easy that will be with the new ones, the M755 is a scaled down motorbike brake so the layout is very simple.

  • Bleed from the caliper port, shut caliper port, pump lever whilst tapping caliper and hose with spanner or Allen key, hold lever while screwing back lever bleed port.

    If bite isn't still there, open caliper port and squeeze in a BIT more fluid, careful to not overdo it and burst the diaphragm in the reservoir.

  • Superb bodging, a doff of the cap.

  • So that clean that I thought worked... the squeal is back after some hard braking. I guess I'll try some new pads now and if that doesn't work, time to burn everything.

  • Sand the rotors a bit and clean with isopropyl before and after sanding, or you'll just transfer shit from rotors to pads to rotors. I find it easiest to do with the wheel on the bike and spin it with sandpaper on the rotor and try not to cut your fingers off.

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer

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