I've got a pair of BR 505s that have been soundly beaten with the ugly stick that are surplus to requirements and might stand up to being locked up outside - message me if you are interested
Ah cheers - decided to go flat bar in the end. The range of hydro levers is loads bigger than for drop bar: bizarre gap in the market
Hey all - any meaningful difference in the various Shimano hose connection bolts? Beyond colour, shape of the hose end, weight etc?
Or are they all interchangeable?
Barbs and olives are different between BH 59 and 90.
Olives are the same, barbs are different, silver for BH90, the more recent road levers need a flanged nut with different threading than the one pictured, most MTB calipers above deore level have a banjo fitting.
Cheers guys! Any major issues likely if I've used one of those silver barbs with BH59 (due to impatience)? I've got BR600 levers to attach to calipers which came with R785s. The lever connector nuts got nicked with my levers, so to get one brake sorted I've grabbed the nut from the other caliper and bunged it on the lever.
I've bled and everything seems to be working fine...
It's gonna be loose, the inside diameter is different. It may just work, but it's not a great idea.
Am I missing something simple here? It's a kickback cross max scooter. Came like this out of the box to the customer. Have tried a few different adapters with no success. Pads not engaging fully with the rotor.
Rotor too small?
I'm going to test that tomorrow but still doesn't feel right especially when the adaptors have 160/180 on them. Customer has been riding like this for 2 years and always knew something wasn't right but 2 other shops never bothered investigating.
+1 for trying bigger rotors
The rotor is not at the right angle with the pad, it should pass through with the top of the rotor just in line with the top center of the pad. It doesn't look like they've respected the IS standard for that mount.
Turns out there is two positions for the wheel to mount and an appropriate bracket. Wheel was in the low position with the high bracket.
I was wondering what the deal was with the empty dropout in your first pic...
Will Shimano MT800 XT rotors work with my Rival calipers?
Yes it will.
Bleeding a Shimano st-rs785 and finding the fluid blocking and building up at the reservoir (part in red in below image).
Had the same issue with the left one and it was solved with a gravity bleed but the right one just won't play ball.
The metal cover is held in place with two small flathead screws and has a rubber seal below that seems to create the blockage.
Anyone got any advice?
How shit will braking be if I throw on a set of road resin Shimano pads after using metal Shimano pads without cleaning the rotors?
I've chopped and changed between compounds before but I've always cleaned the rotors off with IPA or disc cleaner and I wonder if I buy spare resin pads and swap them in the field without doing anything else, will they work ok after a couple of stops?
I've never bothered when changing pad types. By the time you do the bedding in process for teh new pads they'll be fine IME
Cheers. I've used metal pads for years now but they're harder to find so I'm thinking of moving to resin (at least for spares during ultras).
May be too late (and I may have misunderstood), but I didn't go near the red bit you circled and just used the bleed port (part 8).
Also one set of barbs I had previously had a small film of wax or something over the hole that I needed to pierce for the oil to flow through into the hose. Might be worth checking?
Whats the forum recommended brake pad of choice for TRP spyres?
Shimano E01S (metal) or B01s (resin)
For anyone who was part of the conversation a few weeks back, Hope now offer the RX4+ caliper without the +20mm offset which means you can use them with 140mm rear rotors. https://www.hopetech.com/products/brakes/road/rx4-caliper/
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