Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • I thought that too but the screeching stops if I stop pedalling, if the wheel had slipped it would do it constantly.

  • Hubs definitely have no play?

  • I don't think so, none that I've noticed anyway, they're pretty new wheels, probably under 200 miles on them.

  • Cause when you start pedalling, disc rub, something is moving under pressure.

    Double check drop out to see if there’s any sight of mark from the hubs/QR, and if you have them, fit shimano QR to see what happen

  • I'm already using Shimano qr's, the wheels are RX31 that I found NOS, I was going to try a different skewer but figured they wouldn't be any better than these. You may be right about the hub moving, I'll test it out.

  • Sorry my bad. straight, 1 1/8, threadless!

  • and why is that? (honest question)

  • Flat mount is supposed to eliminate the need for adaptors... It doesn't...

    It also over complicates the frame prep and installation.

    Put it this way, post mount is fine as it is, so is IS but manufacturers just have to create some new stuff for the sake of ' improved and better ' so you'll buy more!

  • Kind of.

    Flat mount advantage is that the rear triangle doesn’t need to be re-designed and can be adjusted under the chainstay instead of awkwardly inside both chainstay and seat stay.

    Flat mount perfect for road. Post mount for MTB/hybrid.

  • The irony of which a new design and that the rear triangle doesn't have to be redesigned... ;)

    Put it this way, there was no need for a new standard. It's a marketing ploy to get more sales...

  • To be fair, both Post and IS have significant problems. FM does deal with them.

  • To be fair, both FM and IS have significant problems. Post Mount does deal with them.

    FTFY.

  • To be fair, both FM and Post have significant problems. IS does deal with them.

    FTFM.

  • So I think I've solved the problem of my squealing brake. I think when I sit my 100kg on the bike it causes the rear triangle to flex slightly and move the caliper just enough that the edge touches the rotor. I'm not sure why it didn't happen before but I just tried setting it up so it rubs on the outside pad then when I sit on it there's no more rubbing. Looking at the caliper there's a slight lip on the metal where it looks like it's been worn away and it's perfectly in line with the rotor.


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  • If anyone is on the fence about compressionless brake cable for BB5s/BB7s, do it.

    Totally worth it - a night and day difference in feeling.

  • I agree. I once bought a BIG reel of Jagwire KEB-SL for c.£30 from the US and had to pay silly import charges, but it's lasted me for years. Now I can't seem to find any other sources of brake only compressionless housing, without brake cables or gear cables/gear housing, apart from maybe here:

    https://www.bike-components.de/en/Jagwir­e/KEB-SL-Brake-Cable-Housing-3-m-p34496/­

  • Condor used to sell the jagwire KEB-SL in a few meters of length in store - worth a look?

  • Glad you agree.

    If anyone else is thinking about it and wants the kit I got my mine from High on Bikes eBay:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311896371796

  • If anyone is on the fence about compressionless brake cable for BB5s/BB7s, do it.

    Best ever feeling with Yokozuna Reaction made it feel lighter, sharper and smoother than even hydraulic.

  • Do you think Yokozuna Reaction is better than Haywire KEB-SL? I've never tried the Yokozuna.

    *Edit - Jagwire. Haywire amuses me though, thanks autocorrect

  • Any idea how I can bodge one of these to take off a centrelock>6bolt disc adapter? Away from my toolbox for the forseeable and only got a cassette lockring tool to install the fancy new centrelock rotors.


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  • As I'm sure youre away, that's a BB tool, and you need a cassette lockring tool. No OTP tool to convert one to the other as far as I'm aware.

  • They work for the centerlock lockrings with external notches needed for some thru axle hubs. You could try a punch and hammer, but you'll fuck up the lockring a bit and maybe more if something goes wrong.

  • Jagwire KEB-SL

    They’re wrapped in kevlar, rather than coiled steel.

    The latter is stronger.

  • I’ve just bought a second hand bike with BB5 discs on it. The red pad adjuster is completely stuck, and the T25 hex bolt is totally rounded out. As a result, I can’t fit new pads. Is there any saving this, or should I just buy a new calliper?

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer

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