Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I'd prefer not to as I have a SRAM drivetrain and would rather not mix. But I don't care enough to spend significantly more / have significantly worse performance.

@snottyotter The M6000 brakes?

Shimano MT500 are cheap and good

They're the current iteration but any deore from the past few are great, they've got the decent lever shape and servowave of the higher end stuff but miss out on ceramic pistons and use Allen keys for adjustment, which is no biggy, and they don't have bite point adjustment, which is relatively useless on shimano brakes anyway.

@snottyotter just checking twice; MT-200 take BH59 olives and hose yeah?

Yup!

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Looks like a yes.

Sram shifter and shimano brake lever don’t look too bad together + really comfortable:

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My spyres creak when braking. They have new cables and were recently serviced. They did it before the service and started soon after.

Unfortunately my commute is muddy in places and my bike lives outside for ten hours a day at work.

Any thoughts on reducing the creak or service tips? Thanks very much

Worn/contaminated pads/rotors? Misaligned calipers/rotors?

bike lives outside for ten hours a day at work...

Sound like the bearing.

Undo cable, squeeze arm with your hand, feel how smooth/rough it is.

I think Ed’s idea is more likely, the pads are pretty new, the discs were cleaned recently and it’s more like a bearing in the Caliper creak noise. Can you replace the bearings?

First result from a quick search

https://thebottomgear.co.uk/servicing-tr­p-spyre-brakes/

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic­/psa-trp-spyre-rebuild-guide/

‘Kin heck that looks like something I could make a real pigs ear of! Thanks anyway. Might be time to just go hydraulic

Looks worse than it is I think.

Cheap Clarks M2 work wonder, and easily servicable as it's very much using Shimano parts.

That or BB5.

Actually ignore that, didn't realised you're talking about road bike.

Look into Juintech R1, I think that system will work well for you and well priced on eBay.

BB5 really?

BB5 really?

Cheaper than BB7 and work just as well.

How so?

It’s not as tricky as it looks - just make sure you don’t get cocky when reassembling!

Hydro is the dream though...ahem

How so?

Less moving part, simpler design, etc. they work pretty well, then again I work in the workshop and deal with all kind of brakes.

They both work with the ball bearing and ramp design. With the BB5, do you tension the arm as they outer pad wears down? Or do you tighten the inner pad and move the caliper inwards?

You've been scobled.

You've been ignored.

Got a pair of sram red hrd shifters to force flat mount callipers. Having a nightmare bleeding the system.
I've passed oil back and forth between the stringers with the brake Lever open. I'll then clamp the Lever closed with a rubber band, lock off the Lever syringe and pull out on the Calliper syringe and I'm pulling so many bubbles out. Yet when I open the syringe up I can move the brake fluid from one syringe to the other with no issues /bubbles. As soon as I close the Lever the bubbles appear.
Any advice?

Edit** for anyone who had a similar problem - i think I must've been pulling air through the connection between the calliper and syringe.
The overarching issue was that when i squeezed the brake lever, it was going all the way to the handlebar but It wouldn't stop the wheel or engage with the disc properly. I removed the bleed block and moved the pistons in a little bit, then did it all again and now it's fine. Relief!