So I've just installed my first hydraulic disc brake. It seems to work ok. But I forgot to put the connector inserts in the ends of the hoses. So the olives in my cross-top lever are tightening on a plastic hose with no metal insert. Inserts were already installed in the ends I put into the brake caliper and STI lever.
I'm going to ride it and see if it goes spongy, then bleed and do it properly if needed. Think that's dangerous?
yes, the olive is missing the insert to get crushed around.
ok need to buy more hose then. fucking up is the best way to learn.
You probably trimmed them just long enough to cut the end off and do it right.
HELP - I bought a new (used) hydraulic disc brake caliper which came with the used pads in it. There is lots of life still in the pads. I used them on a new rotor. Lots of squeaking....sanded the pads a bit. Better but the squeaking still occurs when I pull lever when i am really slow / coming to a stop. There is noticeable pad marks on the rotor, I am not sure if that is from the breaking in process or because I used the used pads on the new rotor (contamination?). Noise is embarrassing. Need to clean rotor? with what?
Need to clean rotor? with what?
Need to clean rotor? with what?
Used to bleed my mtb disc brakes years ago but new to all this road stuff. What's a good cheap bleed kit for some Sram Rival brakes? Need to replace a caliper...
Go to epic bleed solutions.
Prepare for a very frustrating hour of faff.
Paging @edscoble or other forum knowledge fountain...
I went ahead and DIY'd it this eve. Should have definitely heeded your 'minimal fuss' comment, but I'm glad I now know how to do it.
I have one quick question on the very final part. Logic dictates that the caliper bleed screw should have an o-ring like at the lever and the same as the bleed nipple. But neither of my ones (new in packaging) do.
Am I supposed to steal one from somewhere else, or does it for some reason not need one?
Bleeding is second to fitting mudguards i would say .
Nope, no o ring on the caliper bleed pot.
Also the yellow adaptor and grub/plug screw are for newer versions of calipers where there is no bleed nipple on the bleed port.
Love the DIY spacer!
Disc brake cleaner for the rotor if you have it otherwise isopropyl alcohol.
Sanding the pads helps or you could hold a lighter to the pads for about 10 seconds, wipe off the gunk and repeat 2 or 3 times.
Cheers, that has now been nipped up and my first disc brake hose replacement and bleed is done. Feels exactly the same as the rear one I lobbed straight on so will assume it has been done correctly.
Spacer came with the stuff from bleedkit.com via Wiggle. Was also party to the only error I made when I put all the oil in and depressed the lever without it being between the pistons :D
Still got those to go... 🤣
XTR on the cargo whip!
Will try that cheers.
Is there a reason the holes in my new 6 bolt rotors won’t line up with my hub? Both rotors have 2 bolts that won’t line up quite, and can’t get the bolt to screw in as a result
Is the answer ‘don’t buy £6 shoddy Clark’s rotors’?
Could I file the rotor safely?
if you bought the rotors locally take them back, or suck up the returns cost. Sounds like the BCD is off spec so filing them out and maybe having other issues isn't worth it, as touching them with a file voids any warranty. It's your brakes.
£6 for a brake rotor is cheap so you have kinda got what you paid for.
Has probably been asked before but:
What's the cheapest set of hydraulic disc brakes for mountainbikes that don't suck? Not fussed about weight, and happy as long as they are black. Would prefer them to not be Shimano, but not a dealbreaker.
A bit more, but Merlin have Deore for £85 today (no rotors)...
Why not Shimano when they are widely acknowledged to be the best cheap disc brakes?
If you're talking cheap, Clarks M2 have been good for me and would be fine as long as you're messing about in the woods rather than hucking gaps and dropping cliffs.
Go deore, they're actually good, rather than pretty alright for cheap brakes.
Bought some Clarks M2 last week, they just a licensed a low-end Shimano design. Uses the same pad as the other Shimano calipers in this household so they seemed like a good option. Came with 160mm 6-bolt rotors and IS-PM mounts.
Don't worry about formatting, just type in the text and we'll take care of making sense of it. We will auto-convert links, and if you put asterisks around words we will make them bold.
For a full reference visit the Markdown syntax.
© LFGSS, powered by microcosm.
Report a problem
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of predominantly fixed gear and single-speed cyclists in and around London, UK.
This site is supported almost exclusively by donations. Please consider donating a small amount regularly.