Do i replace with hope rx4? it's twice the price as for another rs785 but I'm reading up online and they seem to be regarded as shit.
That's what I did. Have a spare RS785 caliper (without leak) for sale if you want a cheaper solution though.
The image is wrong, note G04Ti in the top but G03Ti in the main table.
Was thinking of L03A after skim reading, dunno if they'd go mixing codes after getting them all onto the same format.
Looks like 03 is newer resin all round.
gave the rotor a good clean, same with the caliper. Sanded the brake pads down, they were just black... Gave it a test ride yesterday evening and all was good. Not 100% braking power but enough and no squeak. Same this morning. So if it's a leak, it should be a very little one? Will keep an eye on it. If it comes back, I'm going to upgrade the calliper.
Take the pads out, wipe the caliper clean and jam a load of toilet paper in the gap overnight, that should identify a leak.
So if it's a leak, it should be a very little one?
So if it's a leak, it should be a very little one?
Well, yes, because if it was a leak of any sizeable volume grabbing the brake leaver would eject all the fluid.
Thanks guys for working with my ignorance.
Everything was all hunky dory for 6 months after swapping callipers… now what?
Started as a slight rub of the disc on drive side down stroke, I ignored it. Then it got a bit worse.
Assumed I’d bent the disc, but first inspection cleared that notion. I did noticed the cone nuts had loosened a bit - so removed, tightened, headed back out - problem was much much worse.
Had a proper look last night trying to reposition brake, then noticed wear on the calliper itself where the disc was catching. Fiddled with the bold holding the adapted idly while mulling options and the bolt caught on the disc. Took Brake out and voila - disc is actually catching on the mount.
No crashes, no cracks in the frame that I can see through the paint… what on earth has happened here? And… what next? I’m well out of ideas and we are heading towards mud guard season!
Steel Frame, IS to Post Mount adapter, DT Swiss 6 bolt adapter on centre lock shimano CX75 hubs.
New bike time
I would guess your IS tab is bent. Maybe take it to a bike shop who can check the alignment with a facing tool?
That's a good shout, will investigate when I get home.
Will have to read the lbs thread next.
Grab a TRP adaptor, they're a bit thinner in the middle, although obviously it shouldn't really be like that.
You can see how misaligned is if you have new pads lying about. Just put a new set and look if the gap is straight.
Check if the dt 6bolt adapter is still properly tightened. Happened to me to not properly tighten one which made the disc sit very far outboard.
Thanks for the recommendations folks - especially @Turkish - currently at LBS, who were equally as perplexed at first glance...
hello, Complete disc noob here.
Having just snapped my frame and finding it impossible to get a cantilever fitting cross frame off the peg for what I can afford it looks like I'm going to have to dabble in the world of discs.
What types of cable pull brakes has anyone had success in runnibg with campagnolo shifters?
Definitely don’t use BB7s if you insist on Campag. I did that and it was a disaster - poor braking performance and constant adjustments. TRP Spyres are the best cable pull discs, but hydraulics are far, far superior so get them instead.
Andy thanks so much, great to see you're here.
This has been a baptism of fire and a balancing act of economy and efficiency.
I can't believe how ignorant to bicycle developments i have become, simply having a set up that works seemingly ad infinitum.
For now - out of simply getting running with most of what I have I'll go with the spires, thank you for the heads up!
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So apparently my issue of the rubbing disc was a pitted cone nut - I don’t understand the physics but the outcome is spot on.
What's the go to hydraulics for drop bars - no shifters?
actually hylex RS are better
or if you are made of money: Shimano Ultegra ST-R8070 Di2 and remove the shifter buttons
Anyone have experience of the new Shimano GRX gravel groupsets, specifically the brakes, and even more specifically, the in-line or 'cross-top levers?
trying to set up disc callipers (Juin Tech F1)
the brake pads seem to be too close to the disc rotor, the calliper is mounted aligned, but the rotor is pretty much exactly the width of the gap between pads so it rubs very lightly.
Is there some sort of adjustment I am missing? the pads rubbed before i installed cable so maybe there is something on the calliper to adjust?
Juin Tech F1 callipers didnt come with any manual and very little online.
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