Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • I thought I had a leaky calliper but it was just a contaminated pad. Heated it on the hob and now it runs great. Hasn't got recontamination since touch wood

  • Been reading this thread with interest...

    My partner has the choice between buying an Arkose Women's D1 with Spyre Mechanical brakes or a D2 with RS405 hydraulics.

    Complicating factor is a sale means the two bikes are essentially the same price, so my inclination therefore is to go for the more expensive bike in the sale.

    But...how much of a faff are the RS405s? Partner is not keen/interested in doing her own mechanics and will be heading off touring this summer with other people with no hydraulic brake experience. Am worried there will be a problem at some point on the tour and it'll be more complicated to fix than the Sypres, which can effectively be adjusted with a single allen key.

    Are hydraulics and beginners a bad idea?

  • Are hydraulics and beginners a bad idea?

    Not necessarily, but keeping it simple and using Spyres is a good idea.

  • Cheers, that helps - I think I'm heading down that line of thinking.

  • Nah, hydro it up, if she's not keen on doing her own mechanics then hydros are no maintenance until you get someone to fix them whilst spyres are some maintenance until you get someone to fix them. Changing pads is essentially the same procedure for both apart from reseting the pistons by pushing instead of 3mm Allen key.

  • Hydro, just go hydro.

    R405 is pretty much the same as R505, just one less click.

  • Cheers both for the advice.

    If I go that route I'll have to peruse this thread fully for all the tips and tricks (like not putting the bike upside down etc etc).

  • Yeah I mean with the hydraulic stuff you need to know what you are doing and with the cable actuated stuff generally you can be pretty shoddy, especially when packing and travelling with the bike; most of the issues you would face are recoverable without specialist knowledge / equipment.

  • Luckily it seems the sale has ended on the one with hydraulic brakes, so might have to default to the mechanical and not make a decision.

    I wanted the hydraulics on the basis they're better, but they definitely smelt like I might be getting a mid-afternoon phone call from a frustrated lady in the middle of France: "I've done something and now I'm covered in brake oil, what do I do?".

  • "I've done something and now I'm covered in brake oil, what do I do?".

    The likeihood of such thing happening is pretty small.

  • Yeah, it'll go all over the bike.

  • I have TRP Spyres, get a slight squeal when I lightly apply front brake, but if I brake harder I dont. Any ideas?

  • Apply harder.

  • Misaligned piston or caliper I'll say.

  • Had to fit a new hose to Oli's bike at the court last night when a crease near the lever finally gave way. M8000 brake.

    Got it joined up, pad spacer in, cup screwed in the top, left Oli squeezing the lever while we started another game to get fluid in and air out since I'd forgotten the syringe.

    Didn't spot the packet of o-rings nestled within plastic bag within plastic bag etc. Pads and rotor were old, but ended up contaminated. SQUEEEEEK.

  • Just had some new pads semi-metallic pads arrive. No spring included and the original spring (sintered pads) has nowhere to fit. Do I need the spring? I've fitted them without, and it rubs a lot, but they are cheap brakes.

  • Are you sure they're the right pads?

    I've only used 2 designs where there is no spring: Magura MT8 and Hayes CX mechanical brakes as found on GF's PXLR (not sure if stock). In both cases, the piston is magnetic, so they pull the pad away from the rotor.

  • Yep. Google images shows the original type with spring and the new ones without. I'm wondering if I should snip the spring down to get some tension.

  • Magura MT8

    Boast post

  • Similar pads but different, the main difference being no place for the spring.

  • That's what I don't understand. The pads claim to be compatible, but this seems like a design flaw.

  • Ebay. Worked well on my polo bike for a while until the rod between the lever blade and piston broke. Still haven't fixed it, only ever see the lever and rod sold together as a unit.

  • They fail to explain how the rear brake hose is routed through the steerer. Do you need to drill it twice? Also handlebar roll, levers rotating in a crash etc all need explaining!
    I like the concept and the look though and I hope those quick connects are compatible with other brands.

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer

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