Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • Reviews look bad.

  • The markings on the rotor should specify a minimum thickness. Think it's 1.5mm for non-icetech rotors...

  • I'm running a 140 on the rear and a 160 on the back. Will see what my bank account says and either get some hopes or some ice tech 6 bolt. (Didn't think they did 6 bolt when I previously looked).

  • Two rotors at the back? I'm 160 both anyway so not for me.

  • Ha. Oops. 160 on the front*. No worries.

  • So shimano seem to make everything accept a 140mm 6 bolt rotor... and I ain't buying a cl>6 bolt mounting kit.

  • I'm just starting out renovating a cargo bike. Thinking of putting on an SLX 11-speed groupset, but I'd need a longer than normal hose for the front brake.

    Anyone got advice on how to get a suitable length hose built up? It's the faffing with the banjo bolt that I'm concerned about. If it was a straight compression connector like Deore it'd be easy, but I'm not sure about how the banjo connector bit works.

  • Can you not buy a right hand rear brake designed for people who use Euro levers?

  • The banjo connector cannot be removed or otherwise dicked around with - without cutting the hose.

    IIRC anyways

    As above buy a replacement rear hose

  • It's going on a Bullitt and I'm pretty sure the front run is over 1700mm.

    I might have to get one made up. Larry v Harry offer the XT groupset as standard, so there's obviously a solution, somewhere.

  • Jagwire make quick fit connector things for most brakes that you can then just buy a big load of hose for.

  • Goodridge will be your best bet surely. Just find the correct fittings using charts on their site and then order as many meters hose as you need. On a run that long I'd splash out and get braided hosing to keep the brake feel nice.

  • I've had a look at Goodridge's site and can't see the chart you're referring to. Do you have a link?

  • Can anyone hazard a guess as to why the Avid bb7 brakes on my Straggler make the loudest squealing noise possible when they are wet? the commute is getting embarrassing.

  • I have a similar problem on my shimano set.

    Reading on the internet suggests a quick fix with washing up liquid on the pads, but that sounds to me like a terrible idea from a safety perspective so I haven't tried it yet...

    My other brake issue is a newly spongy lever following a flight. Do I just need to bleed the brakes? (I've got the shimano 105 hydro set)

  • I may have been mistaken,

    Superstar have a chart -­ry/pdf/Hosefit.pdf

    On the Goodridge site you just have to search for the model of brake -­ntain-bike-brake-kit-for-shimano-slx-br-­m665?variant=31561186247

    I think Goodridge have changed the way they operate, used to be if you went onto Chain Reaction and looked at 'Brake spares' and narrowed it to Goodridge, there'd be hundreds if not thousands of items, now there's two.

    I'm sure you used to be able to buy every single little piece individually plus there'd be things like fitting kit #1765 and I'm sure there was a chart somewhere that told you what brake and hosing fitting kit #1765 was compatible with.

  • After a flight you don't need a full bleed, just a burp. Try and encourage all the air up the lever (tapping the hose, angle the bike). If you have enough fluid, this should cure the problem, if not then stick the bleed cup in the port on the lever with a bit of mineral oil in it and pump the lever a few times. You should see a couple of bubbles come out.

    If you have ended up at higher altitude than you started, it could just be a case of opening the bleed port on the lever and letting the air out.

  • If not goodridge, then jagwire defo still do.

  • Pads/rotors not been properly bedded together?

  • definitely didn't end up at higher altitude - flew to Holland. Will give burping a try in a few days and see if that sorts it out, cheers!

  • How long would you expect a standard set of pads to last? I've just done 1000km commuting on TRP cable pulls with standard pads and ice tech rotors however the pads are on their last legs. There is a shed load of starting and stopping on my commute but thought I'd get more out of them. What replacements should I go for that represent decent value for money but last a bit longer?

  • That sounds reasonable for resin pads used on London roads in all conditions. Go for a metallic pad if you want longer lasting in the wet. Superstar are cheap, and seem to be working fine on my Spyres and Ice-Techs.

  • So I've changed my pads. I'm using BR785 callipers and have put in there the same icetech pads that were going out (so that'd be J02A). Rear fine, front rubbing and the disc is slightly moving towards the outside when breaking (was fine with previous, worn pads). I've tried these:

    • centring calliper: no room for manoeuvre here as it's almost not clearing the disc already
    • having another look at the pistons, they seemed to be fine (inside one not deliberately sticking out)
    • swapping L/R pads. Still some rubbing but the disc doesn't move any more so I guess that's a step in the right direction? Can I do that though? I mean, it seems fine, but the pads are very clearly marked "L" and "R"

    Next steps would be to just ride it a bit to wear the pads? And/or sanding them down a bit?

    Thanks for your insight.

    (On a side note, my spell-checker is set to UK English, and writing "centring" and "calliper" feels weird.)

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer