Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • sounds near impossible to me but I haven't ever bled a sram disc brake set

  • As long as you don't start using the brake lever while the hose is dismantled, little or no fluid will come out. The hoses have a tiny bore, and the fluid will be quite happy staying where it is.

  • Yeah, i'd just wrap a bit of gaffa round the end in case but should be fine if you're careful about it. However you can't 'burp' sram like shimano, so you may be left with a small amount of air up in the lever after re-install.

  • If some does escape it's horrible stuff you don't want knocking about inside your frame, and some will almost certainly escape unless someone has started making frames with internal routing that isn't a pain in the arse and you happen to have one. Get a bleed kit ( and do it that way, it's worth having a go so you have an idea about what you're doing if there are any problems. If in doubt push fluid backwards and forwards, tap things and squeeze the lever randomly until it all works.

  • Connectamajig are the little round things on the hose - I'll try and find a pic. You should be able to unscrew them with a small enough spanner. Whether or not you'll fit the ends through the internals is another matter.

    They are designed to be disconnected and reconnected without introduction of air, mainly for the purpose of swapping left/right lever duties:


  • Help much appreciated!

    You should ask a professional to fit these for you. Give yourself an easy life!

  • Quite happy to give it a go, at the end of the day its pretty similar as fitting internal cables, just a bit worried that all the oil would piss out!

  • So many interesting ways to fuck it up...

  • well it is Sram ..

  • Yeah just spoke to the bike shop who do fit these brakes multiple times a week and they said its a right faff - looks like they are getting my business then!

  • With the Shimano brakes I've routed internally, it's been easiest to detatch the lever, since the caliper end had a big banjo-connector crimped on. This also meant feeding upwards, with the bike tilted up, so I didn't lose much fluid.

  • Good decision. The first time you try these things it's always painful and the dot fluid in SRAM brakes isn't very nice stuff.

  • Oh god, the 'levvers' of doom.

    Did I tell you about the time I followed this video a little too literally? Wondered what was wrong when I had one syringe attached to the left-hand 'levver' and the other to the front brake.

  • Is this what a dead Ice-tech rotor looks like? Pretty dissapointed it's gone through so fast. Barely ridden these wheels in the wet and only been on since the end of last summer, so probably ~300km. That is all on mountain roads though, so pretty heavy braking.

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  • They just look broken in to me. How thin is the braking material compared to the rest of it? I've done atleast 5000km on my rotors. Not on mountain roads but still...

  • Hard to tell but if it feel lie there's a ridge between the braking area and then the non braking area; replace.

  • Most importantly, were you using metal pads? Rather than resin?

  • There are little dark patches near the outside of the rotor, you can see a couple on the image. I think I was using Shimano resin pads, I'll have to check. Surely they're meant to be able to take sintered pads too though?

    It measures 1.84mm with a caliper.

  • They are fine with either pad type. Might wear a bit quicker with metal. I killed a pair over about three years of mountain biking including two trips to Morzine - I'm sure yours are fine.

    Do they stop? Is the braking surface still a reasonable width? Keep running em.

  • Still works fine, the front is 1.9mm and doesn't have the dark patches. I was thinking it might be the aluminium core showing through.

  • Just had a closer look, the patches are actually low spots where the pads haven't touched the rotor yet and so it's still shiny. No need to panic then. I have been running bbb resin pads (what we sold at the shop). Just put some semi-metallic on the front, will see if they make a noticeable difference, if not I'll go back to resin. I'd rather burn through resin pads than rotors.

  • 500km? no way are they dead

  • So I've just looked at some sram disc brake pads. They're shorter than shimano ones or trp ones. This may explain why my trp spyre is braking on the braking surface and the rotor arms a little. Narrower braking surface? Think I'll replace with some hopes and see how I get on there. Used centrelines to be up for cheap shortly.

  • Anyone seen these?­feline+rotor
    The #buyer in me says these must be shite for £4-£6 but how can they be? Just a bit of metal...

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer