Posted on
of 143
  • Food and clothing and many other items are artificially cheap these days. When I can I try to buy from (so-called) first world countries. It requires more research than just that, but that's often my starting point. So many parts of things are made in multiple countries and then assembled somewhere else so it all gets real complicated real quickly. Bottom line I'm trying to buy less.

  • Yeah if the quality is there and people are happy with buying it from a relatively unaccountable source then go for it. It’s not like western brands all have amazing transparency so it’s impossible to say one is better/worse than the other.

    For me these direct from factory brands are basically fakes / replicas, not saying that’s inherently bad but I don’t think they deserve much reputation beyond that.

  • I don't think buying from "first world countries" is always a guarantee that you're getting a more ethically made product though. For example I know that Gildan make (or made, I haven't looked into it for a while) a lot of their t-shirts etc in the US but the people making the shirts are prisoners paid pennies an hour, so effectively slave labour. I'd rather buy a t shirt from a company that pays closer to a living wage in a developing country than one that relies on slave labour from a more developed country.

  • I don’t think the prices are that cheap that I automatically assume they’re made unethically but it did worry me too. The thing is so much stuff is made in China and we don’t really have any idea about the conditions for the workers.

    On the plus side, Bronson and Bob Dong (another brand) have been set up by aficionados of the scene and it’s mainly aimed at the Chinese market. I don’t think it’s mass produced to be a huge money spinner.

  • Certainly cheaper than other brands, interestingly I have this T-shirt branded as YMC bought from Oi-Polloi about 8 years ago. Identical shirt, but I paid around £50 for mine.­irts-undershirts/products/bronson-rare-i­ndigo-series-railroad-watch-pocket-t-shi­rt

  • Aren't all of these things replicas? They're repro ww2 stuff etc whether it has a Buzz Rickson tag in the neck or not.

    If someone had posted a LV handbag then yeah you're buying a fake/rep but these designs dont have copyright and I can't see a disclosure about where the more expensive branded versions are made. I don't think they're made in US/EU @JB might know better

  • I'm not against any of these Taobao labels who are influenced by / copying bigger brands and I can see why people would buy them especially given that the quality on a lot of the stuff seems great. My point was that this isn't a case of buying direct from the factory and saving on bloated marketing and branding costs as a result.

    Taobao is a market place full of everything from straight up knock offs, things that are 'inspired by' other brands and I'm sure some genuine small brands doing their own thing. I'm not saying any of these options are bad but the lines between them can get pretty blurry on platforms like Taobao.

    TLDR - buy the stuff or don't buy it, some people will be happy with what's on offer and others won't.

  • That's where my third sentence comes in.

    It requires more research than just that, but that's often my starting point.

  • My point was that this isn't a case of buying direct from the factory and saving on bloated marketing and branding costs as a result.

    To a degree, but there is clearly a marketing saving and these costs are Chinese wages not US or Japanese wages.

    Environmental costs are one thing, as is wanting to support your domestic market, but I really struggle with the fetishism attached to North American and Japanese workers making copies* of old designs*.

    Bottom line I'm trying to buy less.
    The only ethical capitalism etc.

    *or "inspired by"

  • Wow, I really have opened a can of worms. My main sentiments were always that the worker is getting fucked over.

    I haven't purchased anything from McCoy's in a while, but brands such as McCoy's, Warehouse and so on are all pretty transparent with their production. Not necessarily always where the raw materials come from (that's another topic), but the workers themselves seem happy. More of a craftsman and craftswoman vibe than a factory worker, IMO.

    @Tenderloin all McCoy's stuff is made in Japan, other than their multipacks of tee shirts which are U.S. made. - at least that's how it always has been. Buzz is all made in Japan.

    I've been buying a lot of Monitaly stuff because it suits the Southern California climate, but also because it's all made 20 miles away from where I live. Yuki Matsuda (also of Yuketen) is incredibly forthcoming about where his fabric is milled, where the raw materials come from and how his staff are treated. He makes stuff where it's most appropriate to make it. For example, he uses a factory in Chamula, Mexico to make traditional Mexican shoes and clothing. They asked for X amount of $ per item and he is paying them more than that because he wants them to make the best product they can and feel like they're being rewarded as such. He's also incredibly passionate about what he does which is a nice driver. I've heard him talk about his clothes and shoes multiple times now and it just makes me want to support the business. Yeah, you absolutely pay a premium for it but I am happy to do so.

  • Don’t think it’s a can of worms - think it’s a good discussion point.

    I couldn’t find any info on the buzz rickson site which details where the clothes are made etc

  • Indeed.

    You'll wanna look at Toyo rather than Buzz themselves. Along with Buzz they also own Sugar Cane, Sun Surf, and Tailor Toyo.­s/

    They also manufacture for Mister Freedom.

    It's all made in Japan.

  • Sure this question has been answered a dozen times in this thread, but who makes a good Oxford button down shirt? I have some old ones from Albam, but they don't seem to make them anymore.

  • Thanks. Anything else under £100 that isn't Gant?

  • Drakes outlet shop perhaps?

    even the Brooks Brothers ones are like £150 which is bonkers. shirts are so expensive.

    oh actually, this place is great­le-shirts Button down is poplin though, but you might find something you like.

  • I’ve got a decent off white one from ‘A days March’ which I will probably buy more of when I need one... actually they have a sale on...­oxford-shirt-custom-fit-button-down-off-­white

  • @t-v As @fredtc says Drakes outlet - £65 per shirt and buy three things and get a 4th free (?) something like that. They’re without doubt the best bang for buck shirt in London - the arms run a little long. I don’t know if the shop is open at the moment but the drakes saville row is, so assume it will be.

  • Universal Works? Though they seem to be doing everything but a standard light blue this year.

  • Anglo Italian stuff is so nice but so expensive

  • CC makes (made?) one in the UK which for £39.
    No idea as to the quality.

  • Thanks all - really helpful.

  • If anyone is interested I have a couple of Community Clothing sweaters, brand new in packaging with tags. Only reason I am selling is because they are too small on me and I didn't return in the necessary time window. One XL lambswool navy v-neck and one XL lambswool grey crewneck. I think they are £59 new - happy to let them go for £40 each.

    I find most CC stuff wears true to size, but these XL sweaters are more like L of M/L depending how loose you want your knitwear.

  • Hackett
    John Simons
    Old Town
    et cetera

  • All this Bronson talk got me interested but how does their sizing work? Sleeves look short and chest very wide. Do you just pick what size number would be closest to your chest size in inches?

    1 Attachment

    • sizing.JPG
  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview


Posted by Avatar for coppiThat @coppiThat