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  • I'm more leaning towards Huelsta

    Those Hem things are just fancy Ikea

  • Yup, they're load bearing, I (and workmen) have been out on them loads of times. I'll use a board to spread the load but there are plenty of times when I haven't.

    No parapet wall at the front, it's a flat roof on those bays. At the back it's a low parapet wall (2ft high), but it's 20ft up with paving slabs below, but I can do 99% of the work from the inside on those.

  • ah i see. interestingly falls from 20ft end with more trauma to the lower body as the tumble puts legs underneath. still not a nice way to spend the summer though

  • What are Huelsta likely to set you back though? £££££ right?

    I think they're outside of my budget for when I replace our Ikea one.

  • Maybe £4-5k?

  • https://www.facebook.com/madefor.you.927­
    This chap made furniture for a friend. Very reasonable and well made

  • Right, builder told me paint pads are for old ladies painting a bathroom.

    @Dammit what's your verdict?

  • Any reason why he said that?

    I think they are brilliant, no splater as you get from rollers, easier to do edges. The pads are more expensive than rollers.

    Asda were doing a Harris paint pad set for a £5 a while back.

  • Any advice on filling those mitered picture rail joints? Or were yours so clean that they didn't require any filler?

    I'm in the middle of fitting a new rail around my sitting room. Some sections had to be flexible as I have three curved sections.

  • The pads take up more paint than a brush, apply it more evenly, and cover more area per stroke.

    I was using a brush to do the vertex of the corners, and to finish up the paint in the tray when I wanted to stop rather than filling it up again.

    It's possible that your builder would paint a bathroom significantly less efficiently than an old lady - maybe he should look to his gran for some tips?

  • I bought a digital angle metre on Amazon. About £25 I think, but very handy for accurate measurements. Had to sit the rail into the plaster in places to get it to sit fairly flat along the rest of the length. Just cut slightly on the long side and the mitre saw allows you to take off mm at a time. Cut, screw on, measure, take off, cut 2mm more etc etc. Then a blob of mastic between the corners when finally ready to fix. A decent power mitre saw and a way of accurately measuring angles are the thing.

  • Oh, and don't bother Mitring the interior corners, cut the profile out of one with a coping saw.

  • Thankyou! I just have a miter box and tenon saw, but will benefit from your advice. I think the method you describe for interior corners is called scribing, and that's what you use for interior skirting joints.

  • some good deals going on at aldi at the moment on some tools. hammer drill for £15, tile cutter £30, 2 step stool £15....

  • cordless drill. i went for one of these. it will be fine for what i need it for i'm sure. i'm not using it to build a new roof, just general drilling.

    http://www.diy.com/departments/dewalt-co­rdless-18v-li-ion-combi-drill-1-battery-­dcd776c1-gb/765799_BQ.prd

  • You can't really go wrong with Makita. My old man has sworn by Makita for years on some seriously big jobs like house extensions, roofing jobs etc.

    Great value considering the amount of hammer they take before they start sounding fucked.

  • Don't really trust the newer stuff. All the brands seem to be owned by 2 maybe 3 companies.

    I used to like wolf tools, over black and decker. But then I used to like bosch blue tools but discovered that some of the discount tool places such as screwfix are unique models to them.

  • Kitchen fridge/freezer has an attached cupboard door, which has always been fine. But the bottom door now has a wee gap in the seal when the freezer is closed. I just spent half an hour trying to tweak it and had no joy. It's almost as if the fridge itself moved slightly, but I can't seem to shift it so it seems pretty stable.

    If I wanted to call someone about this, would I call a kitchen fitter? Does the forum have one? It's driving me bonkers.

  • Don't really trust the newer stuff. All the brands seem to be owned by 2 maybe 3 companies.

    Milwaukee tools. Expensive but you'll never need to replace them.

  • Have a wolf (of London) tools that is a 110v 9 inch angle grinder and circular saw. That has a chop saw frame. Have a large wolf 240v hammer destruction drill, that may cause vibration white finger but does what ever I have needed it to do from extensions to roof to garages.

    I know that wolf (of hanger lane) were bought by kango then bought by atlas cop co. Atlas cop co then in the early 90's bought AEG tools, then sold the lot off to Hong Kong when atlas cop co went back to the core buisness. Same people that own Milwaukke own ryobi, aeg, vax, dirt devil and hoover.

    The tools I've bought recently have been the one with the longest guarantee. They will fuck up, just use the waranty and then at the end when it dies throw it away. Things are no longer rebuildable. The last two hammer drill I had, one was a green corded bosch that the motor burnt out, have a tesco hammer drill that was cheap. Bought as an emergency and still not died. Looking at a cordless, will see what has as a special.

  • Yep get all that, the Makita comes with a three year warranty, and my brother has had a couple of issues sorted relatively straightforwardly which was one of the reasons to go with them...

  • I've repaired a Makita drill before (replaced motor). They are very well made.

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Home DIY

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