Yes, maybe. I'm going with a friend, we've been to a few of them before. Actually helps me to spend less! I'm always on the lookout for odd little tools. Maybe a toolbag if something looks/feels right. Possibly some Snickers trousers.
I have an old Fein so I'll be checking out the trade in deal in advance.
I did to just behind the plinths as couldn't face re-levelling the cabinets after and that was the recommendation from the kitchen fitter and the flooring people. I did roll the fridge out and lay the tiles to the wall under that, it was all offcuts anyway.
The integrated underlay is a 1-2mm foam backing that seems ok. Don't think it would soak up much flooring imperfection. The green stuff is just the cheapest Screwfix vapour barrier as the floor underneath is the concrete foundation slab of the house.
I did that as I have kids who spill water constantly.
Our previous owner left carpets threadbare and crawling with moth larve. We walked into the house on completion, cried and went to my parents for the weekend.
We fumigated the house and however long after rentokill told us the reproductive cycle was, tore out the carpets.
No idea why but Evocore seems to have got really pricey. We got ours for under £28/m².
The salesman and I forgot about matching trim so had to buy that last week and pay for the extra delivery costs.
It's a nice enough floor but I wouldn't be wedded to buying evocore again.
Neat job. Like the lighting - that sets it off.
These look so sick! Makes me want to pull my finger out and actually make some built ins (ignoring the lack of space in our flat, but still).
Thanks! Lighting definitely makes them; the gray blue is a little dark otherwise. LEDs were a PITA to route and wire up though.
Worth the effort.
Dewalt grinder and batteries for cheap in classifieds.
Whats the forum approved method for draft proofing a front door?
I don't really like the idea of adding a seal holder and seal - like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331440202406
But i do like the more challenging idea of routing out a channel in the stops to hold a seal.
Anyone done this recently?
I use this type
Or something similar from screwfix. If you're prepared to remove the stops and rout a channel it's easy enough to achieve with a router table. You can also buy pre-routed stuff from Reddiseals or Mighton. If you don't have a router table it's harder and a bit dangerous so I wouldn't recommend it.
The 'batwing' type are very effective, easy to apply although they often wear out over a few years.
ahh, i used the batwing style internally on a bathroom door. probably because of user-error, but i found it meant i needed to rehang the door slightly set back from it's original position. or maybe thats whats meant to happen and i was being a dumb dumb
@terlg I'm about to embark on a similar project. I already attached some weather seals on the exterior and then put some of those foam seals agains the stop edges. I'm now trying to figure out about to replace the weather seal at the base and close the gaps there as I can actually put my hand under the door right now!
Was also thinking about adding some sort of thermal layer to the inside of the door but not sure if I fancy the effort involved.
Probably easier to brick the whole thing up for the winter...
That can happen if doors are really tightly fitting. Usually it's enough to move the lock keep back 1mm or so, easy enough to achieve if you're used to it but can be a pain. I've just found them the most effective.
Someone tell me why framing the back of ledge and bracer door, and then putting pir insulation in and capping with 3mm ply is a stupid idea please.
I'm not an expert, but my inexpert idea thinks this is a good idea
You only really have a ledge and brace door for economy of materials and low cost of manufacture. Hacking that into an insulated door with more labour and materials is fine unless you introduce any traps for moisture.
hah, i know the feeling.
Would a nice heavy curtain look better and probably do a better job insulating?
Generous of you to assume I can make it tight enough to trap moisture. If I did it, I'll probably cut some channels into the bottom section of framing.
@NickCJ yes probably, curtain like that will get filthy at the moment though, and I already have most the materials needed. The door will be replaced in spring once I have the money to do that. But just want something to reduce heat over winter.
Wera Torx holding force
Wera Torx holding force
Found the Wera PH/PZ drive bits aren't amazing, Dewalts higher tier bits certainly last longer and don't fail spectacularly early (some Wera and Bosch blue that I've had in Ph2 for plasterboard and others have literally exploded within a few screws use).
Wera do make excellent manual screwdrivers though, PH1 + Ph2 + pz2 common sizes will hold screws as you walk around the room deciding what your going to screw it into. Think the 'lazer tip' is what makes the difference in fit, very snug.
'THE' philips screw company screws (red + yellow box?) are fantastic, have become my go to every time I'm at buildbase. Come with their own bits depending on size and you can hang a milwaukee m18 impact + 5 amp off them on a wall even once its done a few hundred of them. Weirdly the supplied bits 'look' like a conventional philips, but do not work in other brands philips or pozi screws, nose is too fat. But you CAN drive 'THE' philips screw company screws with a regular PH or PZ bit, kind of weird. Also can think of very few that have ever snapped or rounded.
Stay well clear of Screwfixs own brand screws (maybe the top ones are OK), and 'DIALL' branded screws and wall fixings from B*Q (sort of the same company), they are not made from metal, instead some kind of flour mixed with used plastic maybe.
Toolstation used to offer the Wera Gold torx bits individually. Sadly no longer in their catalogue, only PH & PZD. Those I have not mislaid still work well.
The torx HF variant, (I've only ever seen them in the Wera catalogue), must be slightly chamfered to give the improved hold.
The Philips screws I was gifted are Outdoor versions with a green coating, as I said, yet to be used. The accompanying bit does have the bulbous nose you reference.
Landscaping works with treated timber means I never have to use an impact driver.
Screws of choice: ToolStation Forgefast torx, but I seldom use the included generic torx bit.
Loft bathroom currently being done. No wet heating in there so going with an electric towel radiator. Only question is whether to go with the controls on the heating element or in the switched spur. I have seen controllable switched spurs (even wifi connected which I'm not concerned about), but not the same with a cable outlet. Those with a cable outlet seem to just be manually switched. It would be nice to have a controllable switched spur with a cable outlet and use the standard element as the elements with thermostats/controls are a bit ugly. Then just hit boost on the spur to dry a towel or take the edge off the chill in the room.
Ideally, this spur - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMFBT4N.html with a cable outlet
This rad - https://myhomeware.co.uk/all-products/electric-towel-radiators/white-electric-towel-radiators/300mm-wide-400mm-high-flat-white-electric-heated-towel-rail-radiator/
Just spotted the little cable knock out on the box - that helps
Quandry over, fuck it. Ordered a rad with standard element and the above switch/control.
Ok 1st time installing a MASSIVE shower tray. 1400 x 900mm. Biggest I've done before was maybe 1100 x 700.
Its ABS resin stone (concrete with a ABS cap on it) weighs 40-50 kg.
Going to be raised above floor due to joist and waste constraints.
MFTR seems to suggest consolidate the floor, so big sheet of ply, screw it all together, 12x of their big plastic feet in the correct locations stuck to underside of tray. Plonk it down, make level. Done?
I'm a little skeptical. 3/4" ply onto old school near 1" thick pine boards that are already screwed to joists that haven't moved or made any movements in decades is a very solid base already, much better than a new build chipboard job. However its the 12 plastic feet, they are of good quality and seem to be enough, I can stand on one and it won't deform. But its over time, something is going to move and cracks will happen.
My method... terrible drawing attached.
Sand cement (weaker mix, more for support than anything as underside of tray is not like glass) 10mm approx.
12x plastic feet in right locations under the ply, screwed to it,
3/4" ply, screwed to feet above, and floor/into joists below.
Some kind of trim to cover the 85mm-95mm void at front of tray.
Why not just frame out with timber, then stick ply on that and forget the feet entirely?
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