If by jigsaw which side up? ir did you answer?
Opinion only - it's possible to argue either way.
Assuming accurate and deep scoring on both surfaces, and the blade cutting cleanly at right angles to the surface, the jigsaw should be on the inside (hidden) surface so that the cutting stroke is pulling the visible (outer) veneer into the board, and any scuff marks left by the sole plate are on the inside and will not be seen.
The advantage of having the saw on the outside is that you can follow the line that is on the visible surface and any slew due to the blade flexing sideways will not be visible. This assumes that your marking / scoring is deep enough to prevent the veneer from chipping or delaminating when the blade catches it on the up (return, non cutting) stroke...
I'd do it with the saw on the inside and be prepared to buy a deep pile carpet to hide the edge if necessary.
(Assumptions = weasel words to excuse poor advice if it doesn't go to plan)
Measure twice, cut once.
Measure once, buy twice.
Bad prep, use a zinc rich primer.
Don't use a jigsaw running against a fence/straight edge... might work out nice and straight, but 99% likely not to.
Pay someone to do it, it'll save you a world of bother.
Richard with that last sentence I think you have summarised 90% of this thread nicely!
How about a clamped straight edge?
Have you had heating on when you have been away for 3 weeks?
Having enlarged the photo, the longer overflow pipe, not the one drawn back on itself seems to be staining the wall. But this has been happening over a long time, so don't think it is related to that.
Sorry, for those not familiar with joinery terms, a straight edge on a workpiece to act as a cutting guide is referred to as a fence
Where abouts are you MrE? If in South London I've got all-the-tools ™
Sorry, that should've been @craftybutcher.
Also I'm surprised the circular saw is getting a drubbing, it would be my first choice.
I think the preference for a jigsaw comes from it being very hard to accidentally lose a finger (or worse) when using one. Also the faster you're cutting the faster you can go wrong, and circulars will cut very fast.
I'd just use a fine-toothed hand saw if it were me. by the time you'd got all the tools out, set up, marked, clamped, adjusted, etc, etc you could have made the cuts.
I was all ready with a junior hacksaw.
Go for it you'll be fine as long as you put a gate in the fence.
How to Karate Chop
I had to do similar (making a bookcase narrower) and just went with a decent hand saw. Tedious but straight forward enough.
@BareNecessities I'd end up doing that if I tried with a saw.
Don't bother with all these saws, just keep it nice and simple.
South Shropshire - a bit too far away to be of practical help...
I'm not against circular saws - would also be my first choice, but not as a first power saw in the hands of someone using it without training, without supervision and presumably without experience?
Or just be totally awesome, and flip out like a ninja.
I've got a reasonably decent Dewalt pendulum jigsaw and it gives me more twitchy moments than my plunge saw due to no dead-mans switch, if you're impatient and just grab it by the handle it can start.
I've done my fair share of plunge sawing and only once or twice had it kick back and that was being sloppy with adequate support of the wood or getting the end of my reach and finishing a cut one handed etc. Since I invested in a Festool it blitzes through everything with ney bother.
One handed chainsawing if you're a clibber lad!
Googled 'clibber lad!'
Still no idea.
South shrops - cleobury mortimer - clibber
You know the area?
I'm about 12 miles from Cleobury Mortimer - lived here since 1998 - 'clibber' is a new one to me!
Having said that, we're still regarded as newcomers, and I don't understand half of what is said just down the hill in the Corvedale...
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