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  • When I drilled the extractor hole in my kitchen I put some silicon around the outside (though the hole was VERY snug so not much room to spread anything in the hole itself. However there's a bit of a gap on the inside wall - worth bunging anything in there and if so what?

    Reminded because of condensation chat up thread (or in the how do i kitchen thread?) as I do get a bit of condensation when boiling water (glass/metal extractor so not entirely surprising) but if it runs for a while it does drip onto the hob which is annoying. Obvs condensation is temperature/material related and nothing to do with the gap but thought I'd ask while thinking of it.

  • Everyones a property developer now, shame most dont seem to know there arse from there elbow.

  • how on earth do you skim that badly

    (not you personally)

  • Big tub of wonder wipes ftw though. Vital

    I actually tend to use this more these days. Lasts much longer than the tubs and can be used with either blue roll or jay cloths if you need to use something mildly abrasive.


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  • Spoken like a true UXer 👌

  • wait I didn't say IT DEPENDS

  • Wonder what's in that stuff that allows it to clean all that shit off but is still ok to spray on hands?!

  • Or what problem the step is trying to solve in the first place. The real answer may be lowering the entire house a foot.

  • Not trying to solutionize.

  • Who knows.

    All I can say is that I use pretty much daily, it cleans up most of the stuff it claims to and doesn't ruin the skin on my hands. When I have to use harsher cleaning chemicals I almost always wind up feeling sick and the skin on my hands Is prone to splitting for weeks after.

    Edit @mespilus knows a lot about chemistry and chemicals maybe he can make sense of this

    Or I could spend some time familiarising myself with the COSHH sheet (unlikely to happen).


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  • Your faith in my fading memory and distant experience is touching,
    but,
    I had a few minutes.
    The Pareth is the chemical industry's answer to consumers avoiding (ethoxyated) sulphates as the main detergent. Sodium lauryl (C12) sulphate would be 2 or 3 mole ethylene oxide.
    This Pareth is C9-C11, so needs more ethylene 0xide, (the '8'), to get the same detergency.

    The trio of 'dimethyls' are 'oily' degreasers/solvents, with low volatility, and not much potential to damage skin.
    The Peg 40 helps to emulsify the 'dimethyls' into the main ingredient - water.
    The Limonene should give the product a citrus smell
    and
    there are a couple of modern preservatives.
    Truly a new generation cleaner spurred on by progressively tightening legislation.

  • You have won everything, and the hamper

  • I'm very happy to find out this exists!

    For ages I've thought the magic ingredient in Wonder Wipes is the 'wipe juice' (a technical term which I'm sure @mespilus will recognise) and the actual wipes aren't anything special, so this is great news.

  • ^ how did I get so old and boring

  • I still use both and the juice alone will remove a few coats of emulsion if you're not careful so watch out for that!

  • Not certain I recognise the benefit of appearing in the same paragraph as 'wipe juice'!

  • Better than appearing in the same paragraph as juice wipe I would imagine.

  • progressively tightening legislation.

    I remember the good old days when cleaning up involved dousing everything in acetone wondering round for half a shift high as a kite and hope that no idiots would decide to have a crafty fag in the immediate vicinity.

  • think i might have fucked up putting this rubber flooring down… too much glue perhaps? as anywhere i kneeled when unrolling it has left really noticable divets. Trying to roll them out proved mostly to not help.

    Thinking about just pulling it up, scraping the glue off, and maybe just using a spray adhesive instead of the fancy rubber glue?

    There’ll be three sides of it pinned down by kitchen units anyway, so in theory nowhere for it to go…


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  • What should I use to smooth out this concrete windowsill? Or is it not worth the hassle and just paint over? Borrowing some ladders next weekend which I hope to not fall off and sort this out and repaint them all.


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  • I used Toupret Murex on a sandstone sill with decent enough results.

  • I’d like to glue this stone bit back on before it gets worse.
    I thing it’s been caused by the shutter hinge rusting and expanding.

    What would you use.?


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  • If that's sandstone - brush / grind out the crumbly bits, Namurian rock to harden it, a few epoxied bolts to key to, then fill with lime mortar. You may need to build a form and / or use chicken wire / metal bolts to key the material to.

    conserv.co.uk are a good resource.

  • The problem with a modern material like Toupret (or cement) is that it has a very different porosity (I guessing almost zero) compared with sandstone / limestone.

    This can mean that water gathers in unexpected places, and can damage the remaining stone though dissolving / freeze-thaw, or other water action.

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Home DIY

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