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  • Mostly ok for DIY use but there is some variability. The Dremel type rotary tool didn’t survive second contact with reality for me and went in the bin. The random orbit sander I bought was actually an orbital sander, which was disappointing.

  • Cheers. I knew I should but secretly wanted someone to say it's a waste of time

  • And @umop3pisdn Ta! will have a look.

  • Always in London.

  • Mostly it saves you time not having to do a third coat of paint.

  • Some are good, some aren't. Luckily almost every one is reviewed on Youtube so you can make a decision.
    I've got a little bench grinder which is fine for sharpening chisels, and an electric hedge trimmer which has trimmed my hedges electrically without any trouble.

    Most are rebranded Scheppach tools.
    I bought a table saw from there which was actually Schepacch branded.

    As has been said, avoid the cordless, because random battery system.

  • It’s not much fun painting over filth. Surprising how much filth comes off, particularly in London. I painted the balustrade round our deck the other day and the water was nearly black after a sugar soap wash.

  • I've got a little bench grinder which is fine for sharpening chisels,

    Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

    This makes me want to cry.

    The number of times I've seen people waste perfectly good (and sometimes quite expensive chisels) by sharpening them on a bench grinder and blueing the steel makes me very wary of taking mine anywhere near one. If price and speed are called for then scary sharp is the way to go.

  • My chisel are cheap shite and only get used for things like rebating door strike plates. I wouldn't worry.

    I use an angle grinder on my axe.

  • I have two questions I'd love some help with from the far more experienced DIYers in this thread:

    1 - Osmo polyx oil application - I've searched the thread and found a very helpful method from @tbc who recommends painting on thinly with a brush and then evening out with a cloth. I've seen mentions of people using rollers. My mate just says he uses an old sock. Any strong views on the most idiot-proof and quickest (appreciate these two things may not be compatible) methods of application?

    2 - I have just finished painting my spare room. It looks great, but took ages, mostly waiting for various things to dry enough that I could then switch the masking around (i.e. I masked up the walls to paint the ceiling, then had to wait till the second ceiling coat was dry enough to mask the ceiling to paint the walls. Similar with the skirting). I feel like there's probably a clever method/approach I'm just not thinking about but would love to hear how everyone else does it. I guess you could not mask the walls when painting the ceiling and paint over any splashes etc but I love that crisp line between colours. For the next room I will need to repair cracks in the wall/mouldings, send everything down (skirting/repairs/messy bits of wall), clean everything down with sugar soap then a tack cloth when dry before starting to paint everything - ceiling, mouldings, walls and skirting. It feels like potentially a never-ending amount of masking. It's quite a large room. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

    Cheers

  • I use a lot of masking tape on some jobs. Some clients don't mind or notice the details though. Very often I'll fuss over one of my own rooms and never notice the details again!

  • Here is one to make you laugh, did you know that paint prep and finish is the reason that there is rising damp issues up to 1m from the ground.

  • Not really. I don't encounter a lot of rising damp in the property types I'm working in.

  • Did anyone bookmark the "how to hang a door" post from a few months back? Not sure if it was here or the home owning thread and my search skills are failing me.

  • For Osmo I've had good results using non abrasive pads like these, also recommended on here - https://www.axminstertools.com/hermes-we­brax-hand-pad-non-abrasive-910348

    Have one that is 'wet' that goes into the oil, and one that is 'dry' to come along with after and smooth everything out, remove excess etc.

  • I just used a wide paintbrush when applying osmo polyx recently - seemed to work well enough. then rubbed in any excessive areas with a microfibre cloth

  • Nice - thanks both!

  • Osmo polyx oil application

    This is a pretty good guide:

    https://youtu.be/LHmZox9WWSE

  • Thanks! I had gone 8 months back searching for "door". Should have looked for "plumb as fuck"!

  • Any tips for removing masking tape that’s been left on too long? The tape on my front door glass is now under several coats of primer and paint and the adhesive has gone hard!
    I’ve seen people recommending hairdryers…

  • Nice one, thank you! Looks like those pads are the way to go...

  • Yeah heat it with a hairdryer and potentially slice the edges of it so it doesn't pull the paint away if its been left for a long time.

  • Nice.

    At the start he mentions Bosch N480 sanding nets which are dust-free - I've looked these up, but how do they work? Do they not create dust, or does the dust not leave the pad?

  • Do they not create dust, or does the dust not leave the pad?

    No, it means that the dust has a much clearer path to the extraction ports - so that less dust escapes when used in conjunction with an extractor attached to the sander.

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Home DIY

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