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  • Any tips on painting Ikea furniture? Looking to paint a set of Pax wardrobes. Thinking 240 grit sanding, Zinsser water based primer, then paint 2x

  • New handbag arrived, @Airhead you were right - it is bigger than it looks in the photos. Will try it out for a bit. Reckon I might end up getting something with a hard base as it’ll spend most of its life set down on dirty/wet floors, but it deffo solves the issue of decanting this exact set of tools from toolbox to trouser holster pocket every day.

    And as you predicted, I’ll probably buy the smaller one, and maybe the bumbag too.

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  • What brand of paint are you using? Some dont require a primer. Could sand down lightly. Clean up then paint

  • Need to get either Dulux or Valspar colour match to a F&B colour that the wall is painted with

  • If that's the case no need to prime. light sand if anything

  • We've had some light switches moved and we used an electrician who was cheap partly because we agreed to do all the making good.

    Is Toupret TX110 the filler of choice for a job like this with a depth of c25mm?

    Is there anything I should be aware of with regards to prep or technique?

  • I'm helping my dad with some DIY as he and my mum finish off their new house - next up is some parquet floor laying. The wood is is in a variety of sizes (as supplied by the manufacturer) and he needs to lay the flooring on a landing.

    Is it wishful thinking to hope there's a tool that will factor in the various sizes of pieces we have, and which will calculate an optimal layout? If not, is there a suggested approach to laying floor in smallish spaces (roughly 2.5mx2.5m)

  • For the last few years it's become more popular to 'degloss' with a sprayed liquid. Then use a tiny microfibre roller that's designed for the latest acrylic paints. Alkyd eggshell is probably the easiest to get a good finish with. On top of Zinsser 123+ of course! If you are going for a darker colour you can tint have the primer tinted.

  • It's not a job I relish. Usually means quite a few weeks of work for me but that's largely due to the condition of woodwork and the amount of railings.

    I wash the face of the buildings and perimeter walls with a jet wash. Sugar soap is not a bad call though. The jet wash also gets the prep started by removing any loose/blown bricks.

  • There's quite a bit of chat about this very task in the thread. The method a few people have had success with is Bonding plaster to a very shallow depth and then a choice of Multi-finish plaster or TX110 or Easifill. I find TX110 the easiest in terms of drying times and blending into the existing walls. You can use Gardz from Zinsser on top of the filler to stop it 'grinning' when it's painted.

    Main problem with this approach is if you only need small quantities of the materials as Bonding plaster comes in big bags although it's not expensive.

    Prepping the chase for the plaster usually involves a bit of PVA mixed with water splashed about. Just helps the plaster to set without the dry walls sucking the moisture out and making it crack. Some people don't use PVA to prime for plaster but in this case I've never known it to cause a problem, normally more of an issue if you're skimming walls.

  • You'll soon have that full to the brim!

    I do still look at the expensive ones but they are a lot more money. The bumbag is great because you don't have to put it down on the floor. Not so useful if you have to lay down though.

  • Okay thank you, so no sanding? What's the sprayed liquid to degloss? And you wouldn't go water based on top then from what you're saying?

  • This is my new most favoritist thing in the world. My "EDC" work kit (there is usually a leathherman tucked in there too but I had to send that to the distributor as it broke and I'm waiting for its replacement. Hammer loop has a guage that lets me hook my drill / impact onto it (it will actually hold both but gets v. heavy).

    When I finish work I take it off and put it in the armrest of my pickup along with my tape. This means that I don't have the embarrassing prospect of turning up at work with tools that I rely on which I found happend a lot using the silly oversized pockets on work trousers it also means I don't accidentally put my pencils / knives / screwdrivers / pliers in the wash.

    Occidental leather works product so it ain't cheap (~ £50) but the build quality and the quality of the leather it's made from makes me confident it will outlast me.

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  • Very satisfying that.

  • Thanks!

    I did try various searches in the thread, and I thought I remembered @stevo_com in particular doing this very task, but I couldn't find anything specific.

    I've just watched a Charlie DIYte video about the same job and he also recommends the PVA priming.

  • I used gyproc easifill on a particularly beefy crack, probably up to 50mm deep in places. But only because it's what I had to hand. I am certainly one whose advice should be taken with all appropriate "I'm just having a go" caveats. But I built it up in a few layers and it doesn't seem to have crumbled, cracked or come apart in 6 or 7 months.

    I like easifill as it seems easy to apply, has a decent drying time (given dryish conditions) and sands well. But it does sink back quite a bit. Especially the ready mixed stuff as it's fairly wet so there's a good bit of moisture/volume lost in the drying out (is my assumption). But, so long as I expect to refill/cover at least once, it does what I want it to from a DIY-er perspective.

  • Roofs are terrifying: I had to use an 8m scaffold tower plus a 6m roof ladder!

    Here's hoping fortifying some dodgy render and extending some short-flashing will fix the problem, I couldn't see any other contenders.

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  • DIY? This looks really good!

  • Yep, a first attempt, it's not so difficult, but it is terrifying.

  • Fingers crossed you find the leak. Water is amazing at getting in through unexpected places.

  • There are a few deglossing products available. I've used this one. You need to protect your lungs when you use it though.


    I would normally go with water based on top these days. I like an oil based eggshell finish but it's a pain to work with. Alkyd eggshell is a water based clean up as far as I know. I only mention it instead of acrylic eggshell as I've been introduced to it recently and it was easier to apply with a brush to a front door and to railings.

    I am only recommending not sanding if you have flat 'clean' surfaces which a lot of modern furniture has.

  • Nice thing. Just had a look at their website, some very nice belts and vests on there.

    Handy with the size of that, you can't just keep adding things until it's too heavy for your belt :)

  • Okay thank you I might try that to save the sanding and see how it goes :)

  • I use it on doors with no damage that just need to change colour or sprucing up. Usually flat doors although it works with mouldings. The principal is not damaging the surface by sanding just to have to repair it with paint. 240 grit soft pads are an option but the liquid seems to take everything off a bit more reliably.

  • On that note, is there anything you'd recommend as a filler for external painted concrete?

    We have a concrete (I assume) overhang porch thing that I need to clean up and repaint. I still have a load of external paint. But it needs cleaning up and prepping.

    I haven't had a proper poke at it, but to me it looks like years of multiple layers has lifted. However, there may also be some sort of skim coat.


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Home DIY

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy