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  • It's likely just poorly made spade connectors that didn't grip properly. Once they're fixed the problem is gone. Self-evidently the others are fine, since they'd be subjected to the same current and conditions.

    @Tomo187 No idea about costs, this is the DIY thread! I suspect it could vary widely based on the particular flavour of handyperson.

  • Not sure without seeing the walls, there are a few things that could cause bubbling. Usually with filler causing it the bubbles are very small. 123+ is the latest version of the primer. It has a bit more body.

  • I would think it would be a manufacturer call out because it's unlikely anyone else would want to take the risk and charge for that. There's a very good chance that soldering the wire to the connector and putting some tape on it would cure it forever.

    Bear in mind that any significant arcing should trip the breaker and most electricians are pulling lamp connectors out of ceilings that look worse than that. So you should be covered for a diy fix.

  • Thanks for the reply.
    I'm always happy to diy but I think in this case I'm just going to buy new. The appliance is an unknown age, the door doesn't shut properly and is a bit smoky anyway.

  • There's a very good chance that soldering the wire to the connector and putting some tape on it would cure it forever

    This is what I would do. Then stress test it to see if it explodes.

    Then buy a new oven

  • Good time to replace it then.

  • I'm entering into negotiations to purchase two garages, to replace my current single garage.

    The plan is to put the car in one and bikes and so on in the other one.

    At the moment I have two "Bigdug" racking/shelving units in the garage, one along the rear wall and one along the side wall - this makes parking the car in there a very precise and somewhat nerve-wracking exercise. Keeping the new garage free of this type of shelving is a key priority.

    However, the car is very low and the garage is fairly tall - there's lots of room above the car, which I'd like to use. I was thinking of a very large shelf that I'd park the car underneath, essentially - that would come out around 2m. Has anyone done anything similar? Any gotchas to consider?

    Also, what epoxy floor paint have people used successfully?

  • Check with @jambon, has a thread called ‘just a garage’ and talks about floor epoxy.

  • Any gotchas to consider?

    Don’t get a roof mounted bike rack.

    If the ‘shelf’ is the width and length of the garage - you’ll lose/forget/be unable to retrieve items up there. Maybe 3 sections of shelf - or trap doors?

    Keep the cost and thickness of the joists/frames for the shelves down by making your own flitch beams using thin steel plate and CLS or ply. Unless the garages are really tall you’ll be grateful of the extra inch or two (😶)

  • Happy to answer any epoxy resin questions if I can.

  • Quick question: is there an official body that regulates the installation of gas meters? Want to scare my supplier in to doing something about a shoddy installation.

  • Now that Whitten timber in Peckham has gone is there a SE london supplier for different mouldings?
    I need to try and match a Victorian dado rail.

  • Whats shoddy about it, post a picture?

  • It's not bolted to the ground or wall so effectively hanging on the pipes.

  • Could try Versaland Vetraland near the Blackwall Tunnel - I know they've got some mouldings but haven't had a decent look.

  • Need a saw to install some flooring. Table saw would be best suited, but would I be better off with a similarly priced circular saw for my budget (£1-150)? IE - is the sort of table saw available for that price going to be shit?

  • Are you sure a table saw is the right tool? We used jigsaws, multi tools, track saw, and mitre saw but didn't ever need a table saw. If you do need a table saw then if it's just for one job I'd be tempted to take the materials to a manufacturing joiner and have them do the cutting. The one near us is £40 an hour.

  • I was thinking a table saw would be the best single main tool, plus a jigsaw or multitool for cutting weird shapes. If buying several then a mitre saw for cross cuts plus table saw for rip cuts would probably be best, but trying to be as budget conscious as possible (hence doing it myself rather than must paying a professional).

  • What flooring is it? £80 track saw was a top buy for my recent laminate, but it came in big slabs 800x400. Even better once I replaced the cheap blade that it came with for a Freud one. If it was regular planks I could have used my sliding mitre saw.

  • Most people are using a track saw instead of a table saw on site these days. I use a table saw for smaller trim work and it's useful but not in the top few tools for flooring.

    Hopefully you are putting the floorboards down with the skirting off, in which case ripping the edge boards down with a jigsaw or track saw works well enough as the cut edge is not exposed.

  • Most used tool laying wood flooring will be a chop saw,
    a track saw and a good jigsaw are also pretty useful/indispensable (depending on your level of frustration at using the wrong tool for the job)
    I’ve never felt the need for a table saw.

    If you’re taking the skirting off (I recommend) to hide the edges then you could do the whole job with a jig saw and a hard-point.
    cutting the mouldings not the flooring (multi tool or hard-point and a scrap of flooring as a spacer and some skill) will give you a much cleaner result going around doors etc.

  • Just searched.
    Can’t find.
    Is the name right?

  • Vetraland - thought for a minute I couldn't type, then realised that autocorrect was working its magic.


    Or these folk look to have a good range online, with CAD files available to check dimensions - https://www.wrp-timber-mouldings.co.uk/

  • A table saw for £99. Incredible. What sort of flooring are you putting down?

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Home DIY

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